doo_man
Expert
I've searched (and read) a million posts, and am preparing to replace my 03 jackshaft bearing/collar with the updated version this weekend. Can anybody break it down (from experience) the removal and installation process. The dealer wasn't clear on the removal, in his tech notes it just mentioned loctite and 60 ft/lbs torque for the new lock nut. I need more info!
bdm
Expert
that is a big request. What i did was check out the track removal portion of the tech section of this site, i read and printed as many jackshaft posts as possible, printed all of the relevant exploded views from the yamaha parts finder site, and then posted specific questions here when I ran into things that made me nervous. You will be amazed at how quickly your questions will be answered.
My biggest problem was getting the old bearing out of the bulkead and then getting that bearing off of the shaft.
My biggest problem was getting the old bearing out of the bulkead and then getting that bearing off of the shaft.
QCRider
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Well, I don't know. When I did it last summer we were replacing all of the bearings in the sled, so we took the brake rotor off, opened up the chain case, removed the chain and the top gear. Pull the secondary clutch off the other end (probably ought to do this first) loosen the locking screws on the clutch end bearing, and then pull the shaft out of the clutch side of the sled.
LiLAl
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I basically did the same as bdm. I was changing the track too, so that tech article was the first item to print. I had no problem getting the bearing and shaft out of the bulkhead - one hit with a large rubber mallet from the chaincase side and it popped out. My biggest problem was getting the updated nut/collar tightened. Not much room to get any type of wrench in there. The dealer I buy parts from says they have some kind of strap wrench in their tool set. I made a crude 6" long socket out of galvanized piping, that sorta resembles the motor mount socket. This socket fits over the end of the jackshaft and into the two notches on the collar. Held the nut with this 9" channel lock filter wrench while I turned the collar with the socket/torque wrench. I had to cut the long end (top of pic) off the filter wrench. I tried a few different pliers/wrenches before I said screw it and went looking for one that would work for me. It cost me an extra $25, but now I have the tools when I have to take it apart again. Good luck.
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yamadog1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
jackshaft
take a 1 1/4 inch piece of pipe weld it to the bearing, at the end of
pipe weld something flat then take hammer tap it 3-4 times it comes
out very easy, took me 20 minutes never had touch chain case side.
take a 1 1/4 inch piece of pipe weld it to the bearing, at the end of
pipe weld something flat then take hammer tap it 3-4 times it comes
out very easy, took me 20 minutes never had touch chain case side.
doo_man
Expert
Came out suprising easy, parts are in tomorrow my only concern is getting the bearing placed properly. Don't have parts yet so it's hard to understand how everything fits.
QCRider
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It's not too bad to put it in. I used a long punch to tighten the locking collar once the bearing and shaft were in place.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
So now that we all done riding, what is the best way to get that collar loose, pull the bearing and tighten the collar back up? Not too sure about welding on the machine. The electronics are sensative, especially if the current decided to go down the wrong path?
yamadog1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
jackshaft
you only have to touch it 2-3 times with a meg welder i have done it many
times no problem,once you get bearing out the collar will come out,
when putting back assemble and slide on shaft tighten new nut with
flat punch. if you only changing bearing this is very simple.
you only have to touch it 2-3 times with a meg welder i have done it many
times no problem,once you get bearing out the collar will come out,
when putting back assemble and slide on shaft tighten new nut with
flat punch. if you only changing bearing this is very simple.
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if your worried about the electronics just disconnect the batt or get a anti zap from the auto parts store. we use one or the other at work and have had no problems.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Maim
What the heck is a anti zap?
What the heck is a anti zap?
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technical name for it is a welding surge protector. in your parts store catalouge it is usually with the welders but i have seen it in the body tools section of some catalouges. it absorbs the spikes that reset or fry computers so the battery does not have to be disconnected to weld.
SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
TTT
