Changing an 05 RX-1 jackshaft Bearing. [clutch side]

If anyone has done this already and has posted the procedure, please let me know, so I won't waste anybody's time reading my procedure.. If there is no thread then I eill explain in detail..

I would love another detailed explanation with pics since i am going to do the same this summer

otis

When I do mine I am going to see if I can fit a grease line to the bearing with a grease zerk at the end of it and mount it on a plate. No more bearing problem ever.

Sled dog's ideaer about grease fitting to jackshaft bearing

If you do figure a way to do this let everyone know because it is quite a process to change this one well used bearing..

03 jack bearing diff. from 05 I think.

I am not positive, but I think the 03 jackshaft bearing and the 05 are a different setup. Please let me Know if this is true or not..

I had my dealer do mine after it broke this season while on a trip. There were at least 2 other members that had the same problem. I think it would be good if you could write up the procedure and post for the other members.

Yes that would be handy! Please post one might even make a sticky.

My procedure to change 05 RX-1 jackshaft bearing.

- Remove secondary sheave
- Remove snap ring next to bearing
- Use transfer rod wrench in tool box to hold locknut located on inner side
of bulkhead, do not drop wrench in this area.
- Use secondary sheave, put on backwards to turn shaft while holding locking collar with transfer rod wrench. This procedure usually takes a second person helping.
- Make sure you turn secondary counter clockwise to take collar nut off.
- After nut is fully off collar, proceed to other side and remove brake assemblies and chain case cover. Remove gears and chain and be carefull
of parts and order of assembly.
- When this is all removed, take a hardwood block and tap the shaft towards clutch side. The shaft should move easily out of bearing, exposing locking collar.
- Before you drive the shaft any further, look in shaft hole on chain side and you will notice a collar and washer. Slip a long screwdriver in there, so they won't fall out of place.
- You can then use the shaft along with the lock nut as a sliding hammer.
- The bearing when you pull shaft should slip out of the bearing keeper with a few thrusts of the shaft.
- This bearing is a special application for Yamaha only and has a tapered inner race, to allow the locking collar to fit in while assembling it.
- Royal Distributing offers this bearing at $45.00 Canadian and the # is 04-620650.
- When installing new bearing make sure to measure inside of race and install with bigger side to outside. This will allow collar to seat in properly.
- While assembling in the reverse order make sure to tighten shaft on chain case side first. Push locking collar in after tightening chain case side, and start threading locking collar nut on.
- Use secondary sheave again to tighten locking collar nut by turning sheave in clockwise direction.
- As you are tightening the nut, tap the locking collar in with a punch to firmly grasp the shalf.
- This was a learning experience for me, so if you find any different methods or procedures, that might help the next guy, Please Post. Good Luck. Don't forget to put snap ring back into bearing keeper. D.B.

If you regrease this bearing every year you shouldn't have to replace it. The same with the drive shaft bearing.
I have never had to replace either bearing in the 34 years i've had Yamaha's.

My 05 RX-1 had 9538 miles on it and the bearings checked out ok.

Just my 2 cents.

how do you go about just regreasing the brg?
do you have to pull it all apart as the post above describes or is this somthing you can do while assembled?

maybe you can post your method SNOROVER


thanks

My guess is that he removes the seal and shoots grease into the bearing. Then he just reinstalls the seal. I would do it that way. I think if you use a needle grease end it will work best.

Thats what I did this year. After removing the snapring, remove the seal with a jewler's scredriver. Very carefully pry the seal out from the OD side of the seal. Use a needle and shoot some grease in there. Reinstall the seal and snapring, .... & away you go. Takes about 5 minutes.

I think that is why they dont put grease zerks on them if they did they last forever.

bearing inspection

After I had pulled the bearing, I removed the seals and found that it was indeed lacking grease. I have 11000 klicks on this machine and I would think that instead of a total replacement , the ideaer of using the needle grease method would be an answer. I don't think I would remove the seal for fear of not fitting back in place properly. The needle could penetrate the seal without removal. Just an ideaerr.

I found that when the bearing is regreased for the first time it usally lasted a long time--thats the jack shaft bearing. Now the drive shaft bearing required more greasing, which I did after about each 1000 miles and sometimes I had to clean that bearing out with carb cleaner and an air hose to dry it before regreasing it.
I used the methode you guys used above-namely removing the seal, because I wanted to inspect the bearing for the insurance that it was in good shape.