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Question to Hammer (BOV)

SPEED

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
536
Location
new jersey
Hammer ,If I could pick your brain for a minute. Reading thru your previous post on the Turbo xs valve, I was wondering if you had any luck with the spring in your valve,did you ever get the right tension or did you just cut the 5 rings out of it.
I am going to install mine this week and was just trying to save some time.Any help ,as usual will be greatly appreciated,Art ;)!
 

Art -- Try just 2 or 3 to start, run it up on the stand, and watch where it starts to open... Ideally you want it to open at or before where the compressor surge would have started... In my case, the compressor surge began at around 3000-4000rpm... Initially I cut the 3-coils off but that wasn't enough to get it to open at 3000rpm... I then cut 4-coils, then 5-coils, and it finally began to open at 3000rpm (1.5lbs on boost gauge)... Individual results may vary depending on your vacuum... One guy told me his opens at 3000rpm with only 2-coils cut... Since we have nearly identical setups, if you could do me a favor, and "T" into your MAP sensor hose (located above fuel rail) and measure your vacuum I would appreciate it... The book says 8"Hg at idle on a stock Apex (vacuum source referenced at #1 cylinder)... I'm only getting 4"Hg at idle on my SC setup (vacuum source referenced at MAP sensor), which may be why I had to cut 5-coils.
 
Thanks Hammer , that will give me a bench mark to start with,I,ll get the vac. gauge on tomorrow and let you know what it is .
Art ;)!
 
Thanks Art....here's what I got: Tested with combination vac/press gauge at MAP sensor... Gauge needle pulsating with engine +and- 1" so I guessed the "middle".
4" at 1500rpm
5" at 3000rpm
6" at 5000rpm
After 5000rpm the gauge switched over to pressure
 
Hammer Got those numbers for you , As follows;

8" @ 1300rpms

10"@ 2500 rpms

11"@4000rpms

Tested @ map sensor for mpi controller

Have clutch's off sled so didn't go higher than 4000.
Boondocker controller arrived today will install when I get back from Shoot-out
Art
 
"Huston. We have a problem"..... :o|

Had a hunch and I should have followed up on it sooner. Now I know there's a problem. I bet one of those bazillion ny-ty's under the hood cut through a line.

Thank You Art !!!
 
Ok, that wasn't it, pulled all vacuum lines they all checked good, intake manifolds are properly seated, good compression, burns zero oil, no oil from crank case breather or anything catastrophic.

Think I'll buy a new guage and try it again.
 
Tuco, Just got done installing it, will be going to the dyno on Tuesday the 19th so will be able to tell you for sure after that,The install is pretty easy,It does not break into wiring harness where the mpi does but instead it goes inbetween the injectors and the harness. The beauty of the boondockers is that it is nos ready ,just buy the balance of the kit and your set. Will be posting the results on Wednesday for sure. ;)!
 
Borrowed another gauge to cross check mine....my gauge is correct.

The more I troubleshot the more I learned... Seems the IAC (idle air controller), which is basically an air bypass valve, has an effect on the reading. (cold engine vs full operating temp engine)... The IAC contains a thermowax that expands and contracts (opens/closes the controller) with coolant temperature... I checked mine cold (55*F) so the IAC was fully open, which bypasses air around the throttle plates, giving me a low vacuum signal... I'm 100% sure I have no hose/manifold vacuum leaks so once I get it all back together I'll check it again with the engine at full operating temp.
 
When I checked mine the temp was right around 175 the first time,Then checked it again at around 190, so that holds true to what your finding. Get some heat in it and see ;)!
 


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