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SKI DOO Wheel Part#

Z

zipclean

Expert
Joined
Nov 22, 2005
Messages
217
Location
Prince Albert,Sask.
Can some one post the part # for the ski doo idler wheels.They were on here once ,can't find them.Do they just bolt on or is there some machining to do?No use putting on new yamaha wheels I think they look the same as the ones they are taking off and repalcing.
 

just buy wheels from royal dist. that look like the back ones and have 6205 bearings all need to do is add washers to fill in the gap the bolts our long enough to early to tell how long they will last but iseasy to change bearings they look good and havent lost one yet our ice hear is preety rough i sell snowmobile parts to
 
ski-doo wheels (135mm) part # 503190802 they have the 6205 bearing, change all 6 of the idler wheels, the yamaha ones on the 06' were awful
 
I put the Ski-Doo wheels on all six idlers, and added the SLP Anti-wear pads as well. I rode about 90 miles the other day and found that my sled had much less resistance. The proof of this was very apparant as my r.p.m.'s before would peak at 10,300 to 10,500 and now it ran up to 11,100. I will now clutch accordingly. I also noticed that as I would slow down and the clutch would disengage the sled would almost surge in comparison to what it did before. I think this is all good except for the added brake wear.
 
UPsledder said:
I put the Ski-Doo wheels on all six idlers, and added the SLP Anti-wear pads as well. I rode about 90 miles the other day and found that my sled had much less resistance. The proof of this was very apparant as my r.p.m.'s before would peak at 10,300 to 10,500 and now it ran up to 11,100.....
Click to expand...

Thank you! This is what I have been telling people for 10 months. It works!
 
UPsledder said:
I put the Ski-Doo wheels on all six idlers, and added the SLP Anti-wear pads as well. I rode about 90 miles the other day and found that my sled had much less resistance. The proof of this was very apparant as my r.p.m.'s before would peak at 10,300 to 10,500 and now it ran up to 11,100. I will now clutch accordingly. I also noticed that as I would slow down and the clutch would disengage the sled would almost surge in comparison to what it did before. I think this is all good except for the added brake wear.
Click to expand...
My only issue with that is that the ski-doo idlers are approx 4-4.5mm larger in diameter than the Yamaha ones and I am worried that the rear skid might jump out of the track at hard cornering. Not sure, it might not. I was thinking about just having the current blocks milled down 1.5mm on a CNC and that would lower the stock wheels another 1.5mm. Any thoughts?
 
What are the SLP anti wear pads? From what I understand Yamaha has switched back to its original wheel supplier from their previous attempt to save money on the wheels for the 2006 sleds. I have newer updated wheels and they are fine. No problems. You get what you pay for. Are the kimpex wheels the way to go if you want a slightly bigger wheel?
 
slp wear pads...think of them as a rounded bolt...which the bolt mounted where the closed track windows are located...the domed head will have minimal contact with the slide and have way more resisitance than rubber on slide...

facts:you must drill more holes and adding some more metal (weight)these are also a wearable item...

I was considering them...but decided to puch open the closed holes and clip...just like the good old days...fully clipped for me...
 
SledFreak said:
UPsledder said:
I put the Ski-Doo wheels on all six idlers, and added the SLP Anti-wear pads as well. I rode about 90 miles the other day and found that my sled had much less resistance. The proof of this was very apparant as my r.p.m.'s before would peak at 10,300 to 10,500 and now it ran up to 11,100. I will now clutch accordingly. I also noticed that as I would slow down and the clutch would disengage the sled would almost surge in comparison to what it did before. I think this is all good except for the added brake wear.
Click to expand...
My only issue with that is that the ski-doo idlers are approx 4-4.5mm larger in diameter than the Yamaha ones and I am worried that the rear skid might jump out of the track at hard cornering. Not sure, it might not. I was thinking about just having the current blocks milled down 1.5mm on a CNC and that would lower the stock wheels another 1.5mm. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
When I put the Ski-Doo wheels and anti-wear pads on, I also put new hifax on which should eliminate any problems as the original wheels would wear the hyfax down about 1/4 " rather fast anyway.
 
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