Chain case removal & 23 tooth gear install

I finished the install of my 23 tooth gear this morning and I didn't think of taking any pictures untill after I removed the top 24 tooth gear. I then decided to break out the camera and took some pictures. I am posting these pictures in reverse from what I took them in order to help the readers here see how the project would proceed from start to finish.

If anyone notices a mistake on my part let me know.

#1) Remove the hood of the Apex

#2) Remove both left and right side panels

Here's a few more steps that I couldn't add above.

Don’t forget to mention that little spring that goes between the two small reverse gears, or did you loose it?

No I didn't loose it. It just didn't give me any problems. I'm sure there are alot of little things I could have added. I wrote this so other readers would feel more comfortable breaking down there chaincase. I'm no mechanic by no means but thought I would take the time to help others out here. I just hope I did everything right.

I take mine apart twice a year at least, getting to know it fairly well, last year I forgot to torque the bolt on the bottom gear and it put a hole in the chaincase cover, no other damage, I was lucky. That spring is easy to loose, it has fallen out on me a couple of times and bounces away. The first time, I wasn't sure where it came from. I still use the service manual and parts manual as a guide. Good writeup anyway!!!!!

Are you having primary machined to get your full shift and top speed back from the 23 gear change?....

Dan

By the way what is the torque spec. on that bottom gear bolt? I just added some blue loctite and tightened it very tight. I added blue loctite to just about every bolt I could.

machzed said:

Are you having primary machined to get your full shift and top speed back from the 23 gear change?....

Dan

Click to expand...

As of this year I am not planning on it. Maybe neat year. I did add a Ulmer stage 2 clutch kit, cr10ek plugs, 144 Woody's down the middle with single double pattern, graphite hyfaxes, SLP pads, Power Madd hand guards with mirrors, 6 Kimplex wheels with replaceable bearings, 07 snow flap, Shield warmer. Dan I'll get with ya later on the machined primary cause I don't even know what the heck that is.

Shivesy said:

machzed said:

Are you having primary machined to get your full shift and top speed back from the 23 gear change?....

Dan

Click to expand...

As of this year I am not planning on it. Maybe neat year. I did add a Ulmer stage 2 clutch kit, cr10ek plugs, 144 Woody's down the middle with single double pattern, graphite hyfaxes, SLP pads, Power Madd hand guards with mirrors, 6 Kimplex wheels with replaceable bearings, 07 snow flap, Shield warmer. Dan I'll get with ya later on the machined primary cause I don't even know what the heck that is.

Click to expand...

If you do any top speed running or radaring,with this new 23 gear you will be running out of gear on top end....cause the yammie clutches dont go into overdrive...So most guyst who drop to 23 gearing will have clutch machined to allow belt to ride to top and go into OD....something you might think about with this gear combo...ALLEN ULMER does this,so if you want someone to do yours contact him...he's a site sponsor and knows this procedure well.

I just did my chaincase too....so you beat me to the pics..LOL...also doing a 23 top.....and a new 07 chaincase cover.

Dan

wow....in pic 24 the chain looks close to the idler sprocket on the left,thats with the 24 tooth on top,when you put the 23 on and give the chain tensioner more slack to adjust,the chain must really come close to that idler sprocket,did you happen to notice how close it actually was,never heard of any problems before on this,i dont have reverse anyway and i went with the 40tooth bottom,ive always heard the chain runs easier around bigger gears and has less of curve to go in and out of around the adjuster,6 of 1,1/2 dozen of the other i guess

I'm running the 40 as well.

Dan - you're going with a 23 gear? I know you're a top-speed nut so I assume your getting the clutches machined to go with it? Let me know how it works out.

Bill

machzed said:

Shivesy said:

machzed said:

Are you having primary machined to get your full shift and top speed back from the 23 gear change?....

Dan

Click to expand...

As of this year I am not planning on it. Maybe neat year. I did add a Ulmer stage 2 clutch kit, cr10ek plugs, 144 Woody's down the middle with single double pattern, graphite hyfaxes, SLP pads, Power Madd hand guards with mirrors, 6 Kimplex wheels with replaceable bearings, 07 snow flap, Shield warmer. Dan I'll get with ya later on the machined primary cause I don't even know what the heck that is.

Click to expand...

If you do any top speed running or radaring,with this new 23 gear you will be running out of gear on top end....cause the yammie clutches dont go into overdrive...So most guyst who drop to 23 gearing will have clutch machined to allow belt to ride to top and go into OD....something you might think about with this gear combo...ALLEN ULMER does this,so if you want someone to do yours contact him...he's a site sponsor and knows this procedure well.

I just did my chaincase too....so you beat me to the pics..LOL...also doing a 23 top.....and a new 07 chaincase cover.

Dan

Click to expand...

170plus said:

wow....in pic 24 the chain looks close to the idler sprocket on the left,thats with the 24 tooth on top,when you put the 23 on and give the chain tensioner more slack to adjust,the chain must really come close to that idler sprocket,did you happen to notice how close it actually was,never heard of any problems before on this,i dont have reverse anyway and i went with the 40tooth bottom,ive always heard the chain runs easier around bigger gears and has less of curve to go in and out of around the adjuster,6 of 1,1/2 dozen of the other i guess

Click to expand...

I mentioned in my starting post that I didn't start to take pictures untill after I had the 24 gear removed. So the gear in picture twenty four is the 23 gear. Then I swapped the pictures around and posted them as if I was taking them from start to finish.

vice108 said:

Dan - you're going with a 23 gear? I know you're a top-speed nut so I assume your getting the clutches machined to go with it? Let me know how it works out.

Bill

Click to expand...

Hey Bill...

Yep...My new chaincase cover came in,so I knew i was doing some chaincase work....so figured I would try the much advertised 23 top gear..LOL....and youre right...radaring is my thing along with all the lakes we live on....so im gonna have it machined for sure....the gearing chart shows a theoretical top speed with the 23/38 of 127.....but ofcourse that would be in theory,at full shift...I found a guy doing it up where i ride,that my dealer hooked up with.....So i will have primary machined in about 2 weeks when i get up north...

I will always post my honest speeds on radar...and anything else i find that works....gotta keep the TY boys faster then the rest..hehe.

BTW,the new cover went on today,and there are several things you need to be sure dealer orders....new top bearing is a must,new bearing seal,new gasket,...also...be ready to swap over the reverse FORKS(linkage) inside the cover...real pain in #*$&@ as they use ROLL PINS to attach it,and is a prick to change,so take your time....also,dont forget to swap over the 2 threaded NUT peices,which are knurl fitted in cover,these are located where the 2 bolts that hold caliper on,bolt into...lots to be awaRE of with the new cover replacement...and YES the new cover has tighter tolerences along with larger LEDGE which helps seal the GASKET much better,so no more weeping gear lube.

also,you need to either re-use the 2 dowel pins OR pull them out of old cover and reintall in new..this was tricky but i did it,since dealer didnt order the new dowels....put dowel into a vice and twist back and forth till it slips out of old cover,tap into new cover carefully being careful to BACK UP the cover on a wood bench!...tap it in.

Dan

Dan thanks for the tips on the cover as my dealer did send me all the parts to reinstall the new cover,and he told me about the dowel pins and no he did not have them in stock and i have to reuse these old ones like you did. Dan i will pm you some new info on some clutching for top speed shortly my friend that has his apex running really good has made a bunch of back up runs in the 126 and 127 mph radar runs. Pete