GYTRs on a Mountain Apex

HAMMER

TY 4 Stroke Guru
Joined
Nov 2, 2004
Messages
827
Reaction score
2
Points
591
Location
Oregon
 

Attachments

  • GYTR (C).jpg
    GYTR (C).jpg
    66.5 KB · Views: 298
  • GYTR (B).jpg
    GYTR (B).jpg
    63.4 KB · Views: 255
  • GYTR (A).jpg
    GYTR (A).jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 247
This is a excellent mod , I have done the same thing with the Long Float shocks, but went one further and cut down the spindles by 2" as well as the housing. This lowers the centre of gravity slightly below stock and at full compression the belly-pan is about 1/2 inch from the ground. With the front-end slightly lower than stock it improves the approach angel as well as it reduces steering effort.
The reduced length on the spindle reduces the leverage and torsional stress on the front end as well.
 
sled

Wicked mod I want to get my self a set of those now. Looks way better all jacked up in the front to.
 
FOLLOWUP ON FRONT SUSPENSION:

Put the torsion bar back in after two rides and adjusted the shocks two-clicks softer than the factory settings on both dampening and rebound. Worked the suspension through its full travel on some jumps and whoops the last couple rides. No issues with the dogbones in the torsion bar linkage.

Now this is just my opinion but to me this modification made a HUGE difference in handling and ranks right up there with the other major improvements I've made to the factory Apex Mountain package (boost, nitrous, and making the grip heaters HOT). With the longer, higher quality, Yamaha GYTR shocks up front it feels like a completely different sled.

99% of my riding is mountain boondocking at or below treeline. Again, this is just my opinion, but the weight of the Apex combined with the engine braking and the factory Apex Mountain suspension made the sled a soggy, nose-diving, darting nightmare compared to the lightweight, big bore, nitrous, Viper I had the year before. By the end of last season I was right on the edge of selling my SCApex, had a buyer with 14,000.00 cash-in-hand, but I backed out at the last minute.

I'm REALLY glad I didn't sell it now !!!

:jump:
 
sled

Wicked to here man. I just installed a set of walker evans shocks off of a polaris. What did you do to get the hand warmers to work?
 
 

Attachments

  • Nozzle (B).jpg
    Nozzle (B).jpg
    108.5 KB · Views: 222
Can this be done from the nytro gt to the nytro mountain?
Ken -- I don't see why not. All you have to do is make sure the tie-rods don't make contact with the bulkhead and the torsion bar linkage doesn't bind during full suspension stroke. You must also check in the full range of steering (right to left). I'm pretty sure the shock eye-to-eye lengths won't be so drastically different that you couldn't make it work....with a little ingenuity that is.
 
Is the gt a heavier shock or about the same as stock
I'm sure the GYTRs weigh more but performance took precedence over weight, so I wasn’t concerned with discovering the weight difference, and I didn’t weigh them while I had them off.

Sled: 720lbs (wet)
Me: 205lbs (in full gear)
Belt, Plugs, Tools, Food, Water, Avy Beacon, Cell, Radio, First Aid: 25lbs
Snow packed in suspension: 25lbs

= 975lbs

I find it unlikely that I would notice a one tenth of one percent in total weight difference by going to say a lighter Fox Float shock. Couldn't say for sure though because I never tried them.
 
I wanted to bring this back to the top for more discussion. Now that you guys might have some more time on this have you had any further issues. I am assuming that I can use any 16 1/2 ctc shock??

I have a timbersled front end and I think I could stack washers and raise the tie rod ends........or use an aluminum 1 inch stand off with a longer bolt...

Man I am getting exited!!!! I really wanted a set of Ohlin's race shocks but no 15 1/2 ctc... well now my day is going to be shot trying to find a 16 1/2 ctc shock.

I would love to hear back from you guys on this before I lay down a bunch of dough on these. Hate to not have them work out$$$$$

Sap
 


Back
Top