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Thinking of studding, i have no clue about this..any input?

Apex18

Apex18

Expert
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
368
Location
Atikokan, Ontario
I'm 19 and i just bought a new 07 Apex. It's got the stock ripsaw track which i want to keep on it and stud so i guess i need 1.325''. When i line it up against my dad's rage he kills me bottem end becasue i just spin so much with such high HP and short track. So i am thinking of studding, i ride trails 70% of the time and lakes for the rest. I ride pretty aggressivie on the trail. If i do stud i don't want to put studs on the very outside of the track, i have seen many pull through from people studding, so i only want to go up the middle. Whats the chance of me having a pull through, is it really common?? But should i go with 192? I was thinking 144 up the middle. If i did go 192 i was thinking of running doubles, 2 on each row all the way up the middle, how would that be?? Will i lose lots of top with either 144 or 192? And whats the best, woody's megabite? stainless? thanks, Jord
 

Lots of previous threads about studs PRO and CON. My sled is studded 144 up the middle on dealer's recommendation. I won't ride without studs for the occassional icy corners plus I do a lot of riding on frozen Deep Creek Lake in western MD . This past season there was a much glare ice as snow covered ice. The negative is possibly throwing a stud and perforating your heat exchanger. I would start with 144 up the middle.
 
Studs will ALWAYS make it harder to steer, since it nails the track to the ground. Your machine will want to always go in a straight line.

Studs do NOT add to safety. People who overdrive the conditions withOUT studs will overdrive the conditions even WORSE WITH studs.


If you want to improve hookup, you'd be better off upgrading your track. Even if you stick with 121", something like a camoplast 9833 will SIGNIFICANTLY outperform ripjunk without killing your cornering.
 
I would not ride a sled unless it was studded. I run 144 down the middle on all my sleds. You can stay on your side of the trail in icy corners and you can stop a lot quicker on icey trails let alone make it up icy hills. Your sled will be a lot safer to ride.
 
LazyBastard said:
Studs will ALWAYS make it harder to steer, since it nails the track to the ground. Your machine will want to always go in a straight line.

Studs do NOT add to safety. People who overdrive the conditions withOUT studs will overdrive the conditions even WORSE WITH studs.


If you want to improve hookup, you'd be better off upgrading your track. Even if you stick with 121", something like a camoplast 9833 will SIGNIFICANTLY outperform ripjunk without killing your cornering.
Click to expand...

I have used them in the past, but will no more. I do disagree with point #1, and even the most careful operator can find themselves in a situation where they need them. But LB's right about overdriving the conditions, with and without studs.
 
I put 144 singles and doubles up the middle of the Ripsaw. 1.325 tractionmasters. They did O.K. but you just don't get much pick hanging out beond the paddle to make it real effective. I could lock up the track in a heartbeat. In anything other than hardpack it will spin and overwealm the studs. If you keep the Rip, put in 1.450's. If you want to do it up right, go with a 1" 6 pitch Predator with 1.175" 144 up the middle which would be your cheapest solution outside of running the Rip. Better yet, stretch the sled and go 136" Predator or Intense with 1.5" paddles which is what I have done to mine, but this can get costly.
 
Ok thanks for all your input, so it sounds like i should go with 1.450 studs, i just hope thats not too much of a bite. I am also deciding to go with 144 for now, and if i have to add 48 later on. So i'm going to go with the doubles and singles, 2 doubles on a row, then 2 singles on the next row, then 2 doubles on the next row etc. So thats 4 studs, then 2, then 4, then 2 etc. Then if i need to add 48 more then ill just change the singles on each second row to doubles, so ill have 2 doubles on each row, how does that sound? Are woody's signatue series good studs, the megabites are a little pricey for me. Thanks.
 
So heres the template off the woody's website, it was original for 144 singles and doubles up the middle, but i modded the one on the left to show 192 doubles up the middle, so if the template on the right is not enough, i will just replace the singles and add doubles, what do you think?

Last question, i know megbites are the best stud by woody's by the sounds of it, but are the signature series studs almost just as good? They are a bit cheaper, anybody run them? Or should i stay away from them and buy some golddiggers?
 

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They will only hit on big G-outs. My 1.325's did also. Left the aluminum plate around the exhaust dug up a little. The 1.325's work fine, just don't expect a holeshot machine out of it. I used the Woody 144 single/double pattern. You can try that pattern to start, then stud every other pitch outside the windows later if need be. I've studded outside before with a few sleds and never had a tearout.
NOTE: The key to minimizing the risk of tearouts is to properly torque the stud and retorque at least at the beginning and halfway through the season. When they get loose, they have too much side deflection and cause the belts adjecent to the backer to stress out causing failure. I've bent quite a few due to rocks, but never torn one out. If you stud outside the windows, it does make the sled turn different. You have to add more carbide and ski pressure, and you can't back the sled into a corner very well, it just wants to rail.
 
So i guess i don't wanna go with the 1.450's if they hit, so i guess 1.325 will have to do. I think i am going to go with the woody's signature series, they sound pretty good and are almost half the price, ill start with 144 doubles and singles and if i need 192 ill add them later on. So is that what most people are running with the ripsaw, 1.325's? What do you guys think? What are most people running with the ripsaw????
 
I ran 1.325" Gold digger Tractionmaster. Like I said, they work O.K. and will improve exceleration in certain conditions, and improve stopping in icy conditions, just don't expect miracles. The track will still spin a lot on ice and you will lock it up pretty easy in softer snow. If you have some patience, and knowhow, take the Ripsaw off and sell it on ebay or something, then put a little extra toward a 6 pitch Predator 1" x 121 and pick it with 1.20 Roetin Hornets. This will get you a lot more bite on the stud and the track itself hook a lot better, you won't have a clearance issue, and it won't cost you an arm and a leg. Usually some of the vendors on this site will give good deals on tracks and the Predator can usually be had for 350 or so if you look around. The Predator is the same track that is on the RT chassis Mach Z.
 
In 03 I bought a new RX-1, and was planning on studding it. but the very first nite I get stuck on an ice shoot, and proceded back down with my brakes locked up ,I smack into the guy behind me who is just sitting there cause he's got studs! I did $250 bucks worth of damage! theres my stud money! As for studding, I will never be without again. Around here theres just to much ice and to many steep hills, that you will NOT get over unless you are studded! My .02 cents Honk
 
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