tuning?? rx1 still has issues...no longer tweaked!!

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freelheeler

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i can't get this thing to run right???? as i'd mentioned in my other post i've been having trouble getting to 10,500 rpms.

so here's were i'm at

airbox mod, 1st ride- kachess special
under tunnel exhaust- kachess special
21/40 gearing
shockwave
05 clutching with all weights taken out
carb heater in the off position
tors disassemblied
elevation 7-9,000'

problem
sleds bogs at full throttle and max's out at 9,200 rpms
slight burble on the trail when i let off the throttle
pulls pretty hard 0-3/4 throttle
when boon docking and need to get on the throttle the bogs hit and i'm stuck... sweet


i've been focused on the clutching however i'm thinking something is wrong in the carbs?? i'm thinking the pipe has leaned things out and i need to bump up the jetting. it's been suggested the needle be set one below the top.

:o| :o|
 
What are you running for main jets and needle position. The straight pipe will flow slightly better and may need a larger main. Lean and fat can present similar symptoms on a 4 stroke. Do a full throttle pull, kill it and check your plugs

Rx1M5
 
I'm not sure what to tell you.

The burbles typically indicate a rich condition but, with my ECP filters it required me actually raising the needles one notch (to #4, second from the top) to cure the burbles.

I added a Holtzman ATACC in 2004 to help adjust fuel flow as well.

Have you checked your float bowl fuel level height?

Do you have the appropriate Holtzman carb slide springs installed?

Good luck

Frosty
 
If you set the needle to one below the top; you are making the WFO fuel metering even more lean as it leaves more of the needle closer to seated in the Main. I would try putting the clip in the bottom(raising the needle) for max rich and see what you get. I have seen my sled run worse when lean than when rich while dialing in the super charger. If you don't get it right by the 22nd; haul that sled up to Cooke and we'll see what we can figure out together. I'll be up there more than likely riding with Nomad

Jim
 
okay went through the carbs or as much as i could a few of the small screws on the bottom of the carbs were stripped... damn it! pulled one of the bowls off and its jetted at 130. any thoughts on getting the stripped screws out? all i can think of is drilling? i'd like to bump the jetting up to at least 132.5 if not 135 i'm thinking it's running lean however i haven't checked the plugs.

also checked the needle heights there set a one notch from the top. one of the diaphragms was pinched and collapsed but not torn so i reset it. any thoughts if this could has contributed to the burbles? or would that cylinder run flooded causing the slight backfire and lack of hp to turn over 9000 rpms? that was the only obvious issue. also it has bronze springs...


reset the airbox and installed new clamps i don't think i was getting a good seal? and it looked like the 3/4 hose was pinched off. i reversed the tubes to create a bit more slack and it fits a lot nicer.

point of the day assume the guy before you screwed things up.
 
freelheeler said:
okay went through the carbs or as much as i could a few of the small screws on the bottom of the carbs were stripped... damn it! pulled one of the bowls off and its jetted at 130. any thoughts on getting the stripped screws out? all i can think of is drilling? i'd like to bump the jetting up to at least 132.5 if not 135 i'm thinking it's running lean however i haven't checked the plugs.

also checked the needle heights there set a one notch from the top. one of the diaphragms was pinched and collapsed but not torn so i reset it. any thoughts if this could has contributed to the burbles? or would that cylinder run flooded causing the slight backfire and lack of hp to turn over 9000 rpms? that was the only obvious issue. also it has bronze springs...


reset the airbox and installed new clamps i don't think i was getting a good seal? and it looked like the 3/4 hose was pinched off.

point of the day assume the guy before you screwed things up.
Click to expand...

To get the stripped screws out; try tapping on your srew driver lightly with a wrench or pair of pliers while turning it. This will usually work.

Check to make sure all of those little o-rings on the back side of the carb caps are also in place and in good condition also when looking at the needles. If they are missing or torn you will also see poor performance.

You are probably running lean with those jets; I run 127.5s in the super charger which actually has pressure to help push the fuel through the jets. I belive you'll want to start with the 135s and put the clips in the center of the needles.

Jim
 
freelheeler said:
yah it'd be cool to hook up in cooke on the 22nd also i'm interested in the clamps
Click to expand...

I'll make sure to bring them. I'm pretty sure they are on the bench along with my old sportech gaurds that got broken.

Jim
 
i'll need to pick up a set of 135's but till then if i drop the needle to the bottom that should help? up is leaner down is richer...
 
freelheeler said:
i'll need to pick up a set of 135's but till then if i drop the needle to the bottom that should help? up is leaner down is richer...
Click to expand...

Pick up a set of 132.5s also if you don't have them. I changed jets at the Sinclair in about 25 minutes when jetting the sc kit. The needle might not do any good if your way too lean. It is mostly for minute adjustments neede for smaller altitude changes or temperature changes but yes, clip to top of needle = leaner (alows needle to ride further down in the main jet) and clip to bottom of needle = richer (allows needle to ride higher in main jet).

Jim
 
freelheeler said:
i've got the 132.5's just pissed about the screws i'll take a look and see if i can get em out. just need new screws...

thanks
Click to expand...

Yup the tapping on the screw driver as you turn it should work. Geno tought me that trick while changing the jets in Cooke City two seasons ago on my sc tune outing .

Jim
 
small needle nose vice grip is the ticket for stripped screws. They are just a std metric cap screw, availble at the hardware store. Just bring one with you. I have 15 or so new ones in my tool box. :)

Raise youe needles to the bottom clip.
 
RXMax said:
small needle nose vice grip is the ticket for stripped screws. They are just a std metric cap screw, availble at the hardware store. Just bring one with you. I have 15 or so new ones in my tool box. :)
quote]

I think everyone strips these screws. Best way to get them out is with an impact screw driver. Then after you get them out throw them away and purchase some allen head screws. Local Napa or hardware store. Then you don't have to worry about constantly stipping them. Took me a few times before I realized this.

J.
Click to expand...
 
that's what i've heard the allen heads are the way to go! at this moment my problem is the local hardly aware store has gone out of business and i'm about 1.5 hours from anything. it just so happens that's the exact distance to cooke city and i'd much rather head toward cooke than town. so rather than lose a day in the mountains and burn the fuel i'll probably continue to struggle with screws, i found a few extra.

if anyone wants to send me a bag (16-20) allen heads that'll work i'd be greatful and more than happy to compensate them.
 
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