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Clutch/Belt Maintainence

cannondale27

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Feb 20, 2007
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Guys I am approaching 4000mi now.Both my belts are sitting a little low on secondary from wear so I decided rather than blowing $ on belt.To remove shim.Wow what a difference.Yamaha or someone decided to use grease between two bushings.It was all over and cruddy.Cleaned all that out of there.One of the ramps on my Helix had some real rough gouges.Must have been some dirt between that button and ramp.Polished that out a bit and just cleaned everything.Will get some new buttons later.Went for a ride and it is amazing how big a difference 20 minutes of clutch maintainence can make.Try it well worth it.
 

I did the de-grease and helix polish before I rode mine. Make the helix shine like chrome, back shift is faster and rpm at full whack will be more consistant.
 
I'm pretty sure that the secondary is not supposed to have grease anywhere in it and cannon check in the technical part in TY at the top of the page. They say the belt is actually supposed to sit about an 1/8 of an inch low in the secondary but also I see you have 4000 mi. so would assume you definetly got your $ worth out of your belt so it is probably a little low I wouldn't doubt.
 
Yes I sure did.Thats with both belts though.Its not supposed to be 1/8 below though tech bulletin must be wrong.Was about 1/8 above from day one.Just want track to creep a little when lifted off ground.Its perfect now.See no reason I shouldnt get another 4000mi out of both belts.
 
I'm not sayin its right because how would yami change the clutches like that now, I think they are wrong too because when I raise the belt I get over 95 miles out of my sled but when its lower I get only 82 max. On the weekend I blew up a brand new ultimax belt with only 250 miles on it and I even broke it in nice for 25 miles, but I think she blew because it was over 0 celcius that day and I never got off the throttle all day
 
Tech bulletin your referring to wouldnt happen to be the reverse one?Glad I dont have reverse.That is just plain wrong of Yamaha to setup clutch like that.I wonder what rpm they run at like that?
 
I can post better pics when I change the buttons next week.I got this pic off Ebay.Nasty one!

You just put brake on.Remove bolt that holds secondary on shaft.Flip it around like in pic.I like to make a mark on end of spline like dot in pic lined up with hole end of spring is in.Or just remember where spring is.Push down on the Helix(part marked polish).Use a snapring pliers to get snapring off.Holding down on helix.Then paying attention to how far back it rotates remove helix.You will notice the buttons(plastic pads)ride on the Helix.Where they ride and the outside of helix should be clean and as suggested polished.
Look at hole other end of spring is in.Maybe mark that also.Now pull out spring and the sheave you will see a shim which is in between the sheaves.That can be removed if belt is worn.The grease may be everywhere but it comes from in between the two bronze bushings.Just clean all the grease out of everywhere and then use Brakeclean and blowdry it off.
To put it back together do reverse making sure the helix is riding on the buttons and dots line up.Some secondaries you may have to rotate sheave quite a bit but ours is just rotated enough to get helix on buttons.I believe they call that one turn.
 

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I have the Ulmer kit for Freeride track.YES it is worth it.Different wieghts/spring in primary.I believe engine braking is reduced and gets rpm down to 11,500 where mine was starting to creep up to 12,000.It is a very trailable setup.I saw maybe 3mph topend increase but everywhere else it is just snappier.
 
I just got mine the other weekend and it is a mountain edition. When I push the gas to wide open it seems like its hitting a rev limiter. Any one seem to have this problem, maybe a clutching issue?
Thanks guys
 


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