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Just changed the Oil

2008 Nytro RTX

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
1,697
Location
Norwich,NY
On my sled,Pretty painless. I used 0w-40. It says to use 3.17 since I didn't change the oil Filter and I just used 3 and the oil light is not coming on I ran it for about 10 mins.(Let it Idle),Should it be ok or should I add more? How I did it was I used the drain plug on the bottom of where you check it then I filled it up where the dip stick goes,That is how you should do it right?
 

There's 2 drain plugs. Why would you change the oil and not change the filter? You put all the time in and just did a 1/3 of the job. A filter change is the most important thing in the first 500 miles. You probablly have to much oil in it now. Id start over or take it someplace to get it done right
 
Wow!

Unfortunatly, you've only done about a third, but on the bright side you'll be even better at it this time.

1.) Drain the Oil Resivor (Can on the side of the sled).
2.) Drain the Crank Case (There is socket head cap on the bottom of the motor. You'll have to remove belly pan, and flimsy gaurd covering the bottom of the engine.
3.) Remove and replace the oil filter (on the Apex I could see why some didn't want to do it, on the Nytro it's right there when you remove the pan. There's just no reason not to change it.) The first time it's tight!
4.) Carefully remove the gold color elbow fitting from the bottom of the oil can. There's a screen that should be cleaned. I would do this after break in and then at least once every two years. I do it every time. Carefull not to loose the rubber O-ring in your drain pan. Clean/Reinstall
5.) Clean everything up, install new oil filter (remember to put oil on the O-ring before installing. You can precharge the filter if you like. Up to you.
6.) Replace drain bolts in both engine and oild can. Pour required amount into oil can. At least 3 quarts.
7.) You can pour the recomended amount in the top of the motor, some do, some don't. Again your choice.
8.) Start the sled, make sure you feel the oil can getting warm. Once the oil is warm, check the level, start it up again, wait, check the level. I repeat this until I have reached the desired level, and there is no change for two cycles. FYI, slightly below is better than slightly above.
9.) Put all the covers back on, pat yourself on the back and have a beer.
10.) ride the sled and enjoy not having to buy oil at the gas stations.

I think that about covers it, if I forgot anything I'm sure someone will chime in. The Nytro really is easy to do the full service. Phazer and Apex, not so much.
 
So what I did is no good your saying? Yamaha does no recommand changing the oil filter 1st oil change so I did not. Since I didnt drain it from the 2nd plug is it going to really make that much of a difference? Or can I just leave it as in and change everything over wen I change the oil again?
 
OIL CHANGE

2008 Nytro RTX said:
So what I did is no good your saying? Yamaha does no recommand changing the oil filter 1st oil change so I did not. Since I didnt drain it from the 2nd plug is it going to really make that much of a difference? Or can I just leave it as in and change everything over wen I change the oil again?

Start completely over and do what LJ 452 said. He has detailed info for first timers on an oil change.

Very important to change oil filter and let all all oil drip out of drain holes. And yes make sure dip stick is completely in when checking oil level but as LJ 452 said do not screw in.

Good luck this time around. ;)!
 
Re: OIL CHANGE

NLVMAX said:
2008 Nytro RTX said:
So what I did is no good your saying? Yamaha does no recommand changing the oil filter 1st oil change so I did not. Since I didnt drain it from the 2nd plug is it going to really make that much of a difference? Or can I just leave it as in and change everything over wen I change the oil again?

Start completely over and do what LJ 452 said. He has detailed info for first timers on an oil change.

Very important to change oil filter and let all all oil drip out of drain holes. And yes make sure dip stick is completely in when checking oil level.

Good luck this time around. ;)!

Do "NOT" screw in the dip stick, it's on page 49 of your owners manual. Also page 41 tells you that the oil filter "SHOULD" be changed after 800km or 500 miles.
 
Since I'm sure you are or have changed out the chaincase fluid as well. that level should be measured with the dip stick pushed in. And if using Amsoil Series 2000 I can atest that filling it between std. and the rev. line seems to work fine. I would however split the case open to wipe out any residue which there will be a fair amount of unless you changed it before. The chains and gears break-in as well and a lot of metal filings re produced. If you don't want to split the case I would change it again after you've ridden it to warm up the oil and mix it around. Since so little chain cse oil is used changing it often isn't expensive, with no filter to clean it it seems to me like a cheap insurance for chain cases. After all a blown chaincase is has the same result as a blown motor, you don't move.
 
Don't worry about it how you did it. As long as you have enough oil it will be fine. I have seen people change the oil and not change the filter. I did however change my filter but I never bother with the bottom plug because it is nothing more than a pain in the #*$&@. Yamaha should place the filter on the side of the motor like most engines. It is nice to know that your not suppose to have the dip stick in when checking levels. I ended up using three quarts as well and it was showing in the middle of the dip stick. I then added some more oil and ended up being over and I had to drain it back out. Another way to get all of the oil out is to start the sled when you have the filter off. I have seen this technique as well. The last option is to not change the oil at all. The motors are pretty durable and I know people that have never had any problems. You'll wear out the frame of the sled long before you ever have any motor problems no matter what you do for maintenance on a four stroke. I had to change my gearing back so I changed my chain case oil once again. I ran out of the yamaha oil so I just used standard valvoline 90 weight oil to get the proper levels recommended. This will be my last change using yamaha oil products. It is much cheaper to use napa or alternative products. I new this buying the yamaha brand and walked out of the store kicking myself.
 
So I don't know what to do,Some other people say its fine as is and others say its not fine. I might very well just do it over again and change the filter
 
Your sled you decide!, or leave it up to a vote. My vote is for a redo, drop the oil and change the filter.
 
You haven't gotten the used oil that was sitting in the bottom of your oil pan on the engine. Redo that oil change and read through the manual fully or use LJ 452 write up. Take that unit to the dealer if your unsure. Some dealers say that it could void your warranty if it isn't brought in for the first service.
 


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