WolfOne's Sled Build from RTX to Mountain Monster

Sorry, I restart my post because of the delays on delivery of toys and others problems due to my wife’s car crash.

Watching at photos and works I’m going to do and post, please be clement considering that this is my first work on a sled so I don’t know all tricks and secrets of sled’s guru.

I’m trying to do a step by step work that could be helpful for me to put together the sled again and could help also someone that is at the first hand like me.



Page 1

1- Body Panels
2- Tank
3- Chain case
4- Rear Skid
5- Drive axle
6- Drive axle disassembly
7- Exhaust
8- Removing stock tunnel
9- Install Timbersled tunnell

Page 2

10- Install Exhaust Hardware and Linkage on Timbersled Tunnel
11- Remove HeatExchanger protectors
12- Instal anti-ratchet drivers on axle and axle-track install
13- Mt Tamer rear susp. assembly
14- Mt Tamer installation
15- Front susp. Removal
16- Barkbuster front suspension install
17- OFT wheels and rear axle install

Tear down body panels

Starting removing the bolts on the seat side panels



Then remove the plastic clasps on the tunnel at the end of the panels (2 flat small screwdrivers works well)



Pull a little back the panels and than turn it up looking to the front joint (in the red circle)





Now remove the seat by removing the two bolts (1 per side) by a 12 mm wrench.

Than pull up and back the seat

I’m boring myself but I prefer to catalogue each part I tear down by a piece of adhesive paper







For The top cover of the exhaust just need a big cross screwdriver



The end cover of the exhaust need an allen wrench (1 bolt up and 2 bolts down)



The rear light needs to remove the cover by removing the 2 clasps and the 2 bolts under the cover



Than you have to disconnect the cable.
First remove the 2 fasten band on the left of the reverse handle (don’t cut, they can be opened) so you can free the cable.
Than disconnect the white connector and free the cable around the thank and along the tunnel.











The nose is keep in position by 3 bolts (2 on sides and 1 in front).
To have it down you need also to remove the front bumper by the 4 bolts.









Is now the time of low side panels (sorry I took some pics from right side and some from left side).

Starting from the footrest remove the clasp, the bolt (10 mm wrench), the clasp rear the shock, and the clasp over the shock.









Now go under the engine and pull out the 5 clasps (1 in front and others on the sides)





The upper panel with the instruments needs to disconnect the white key connector on the right side (with a gray cable) and the big black connector coming from instruments. Is helpful to open the fasten band close to the balck connector.

Than remove the clasps and the panel is free.





The last one for this time is the reverse handle panel.

2 clasps up and 1 down the handle.

Tear down the tank

Disconnect the gray connector



Careful ly remove the black security plastic cap and free the red clasp







Now you can disconnect the pipe (keep a rag in one hand because a very small quantity of gas came out)

Free the drainage line from the left side fasten band and from the right side pay attention to routing of this line







Disconnect the pipe from the top of the tank and from de left side footrest





Than you have to disconnect the cables.

First remove the 2 fasten band on the left of the reverse handle (don’t cut, they can be opened) so you can free the cable.

Than disconnect the white connector and free the cable around the thank and the green connector







Is the time of the 2 bolts on the rear of the tank. On the right one there is the metal clasp of the rear light cable.

Now you can pull out the tank.

Tear down the chain case

First drain the oil



Remove the stationary brake by removing the 2 bolts with an allen wrench



Remove the calipers by the 2 bolt on the rear of the calipers and free the brake line by removing the bolt on the clasp







Remove carefully the circlip the 2 thin washer and the the brake disk



Now remove the small spacer and free the big spacer and remove it



Pay attention to this very very small o-ring you’ll find after removing the big spacer.



This is the sequence of objects (you have to add on the right the above small o-ring that I found after this picture)



Free the reverse link



Loose a little bit the locknut and remove the chain tensioner bolt

If you sign the position of the locknut, you’ll save time when re-install it.





Loose the bolts of the chain case (also the two black ones in the middle) and remove it.







Remove the big spacer on the upper axle



To be sure not to lose something I keep together the ‘friends’ of the upper axle



Remove the external small gear paying attention to the small spring between the two gear





Remove the chain tensioner



Remove the drive axle bolt keeping firm the axle with a wrench





This what happens when you keep out the bolt



Now pull out the first gear



Then the second gear and the washer/spacer on the behind (look at the form)

When you pull out this, you keep out also the chain, the middle gear and the upper gear.





The sequence of the upper gear
The two washer are concave and the the chine go against the gear



The sequence of the middle gear



The sequence of the down gear



The work is done

nice job, great pics...have you looked in the "TTabs Mod shop" it has a very similar posting like this...

I think you would like it, there is an install on the Timbersled, and track change outs etc. etc.

I had forgotten what clean sled looks like

I would suggest changing out that HEAVY battery to a YTZ 10s or YTZ 7s...either one will save you big weight for the cost...I put in a YTZ 10s, and it saved 10lbs.

mtdream said:

nice job, great pics...have you looked in the "TTabs Mod shop" it has a very similar posting like this...

I would suggest changing out that HEAVY battery to a YTZ 10s or YTZ 7s...either one will save you big weight for the cost...I put in a YTZ 10s, and it saved 10lbs.

Click to expand...

Thanks

Yes, TTabs's post is a must for me

I've assembled Mt Tamer susp. few days ago and yesterday i installed new tunnel ... pics cooming soon

Of course battery is in my list togheter with a lot of things that are coming here frome U.S.A.

Tear down driveaxle

Starting with unbolt the three bolt on the right side.



Than on the left side there are 6 bolt (2 keep also the speed sensor).
I don’t know if this can help me in the future but I prefer to make a mark for the re-build.





Pay attention that the two lower bolts are shorter than others



I work alone and one difficult I met was to have the axle out because of the drivers jam on the track.
So I tied the track to the steering column passing a nylon belt trhough the center exhaust hole.

The axle free from track come out easy pulling from the left side







Left side items



Right side items


Drive axle

Dude, you can work on my sled anytime. I can't ever imagine being that organized. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Drive axle disassembly

This my rtx axle



Before disassembly, mark the drivers position



On the left side (from the rider point of wiew) unbolt the bolt on the head and extract the small gear.



Loose with an allen wrench the ring and remove it



Now you can remove the plate



On the other side remove by hand the spacer. Pay attention that in the inside there is a rubber o’ring.
It seems to me that is better to put a little of oil on the axle to make easy to the o’ring to slip





Loose and remove the ring



Now remove the drivers just with brute force

I found a system to do that here it is

May be it is not the best one , but it works

Eagle1 said:

... Can't wait to see the finished product.

Click to expand...

Me too

Exhaust

Remove the 2 rear bolt by an allen wrench



Remove the three rubber stopper on the top of the cover
From those hole you can loose the collar between the manifold and the silencer. The other two free the silencer



Then unbolt the bolts around the exhaust cover pay attention to the position of the metallic fasten on the right side





This is your step



Now remove the front plate by the 4 bolts (2 in the rear and 1 per side)





You need an allen wrench to unbolt the three manifold collars
Than open them and remove





Remove the 2 rubber stopper and unbolt the manifold





Pay attention to the three soft gasket… they are very easy to be damaged
My sled is brand new and working carefully I’m able to use them again



Unbolt the link to the engine side and carefully remove the flexible links between the engine and the manifold. Pay attention when manage the gasket that is very thin





Close the exhaust exit of the engine to avoid entering dust or objects

Level of detail is wonderful Missing post from Nytro Mountain section, glad I found you again. Keep pumping out the detail pics. Can't wait to see the finalized project.

Tear Down Stock tunnel

This is an RTX model so i don't have the extra heat exchanger to remove.

Going in something more interesting

First support the front of the sled with stands under the bulkhead (the picture is take from the last step but is good to see where to place stands



Then support the tunnel in the front (I used a small wood table with 2 stands) and in the rear to avoid it fall down when you keep away rivets and bolts (I forgot to take a picture but is the same way I used for install the new tunnel)



Starting with unbolting toe hooks from the side of the tunnel.



Then unbolt form them from the main tube



Now drill the rivets on running boards



It is the time of the 2 rivets of the shrould on the side of the tunnel and the ones on the runnig boards.



The last step is to unbolt footrest assembly from the inside of the tunnel and they are free





NEXT STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT

Mark the all the profile of the stock tunnel on the bulkhead so that you’ll can easy align the new tunnel



Remove this plate drilling the 2 upper rivets and the 2 under tunnel rivets





Now drill the 6 rivets that link tunnel protectors on the bulkhead paying attention to the two frontal ones that are partially under the secondary axle (I used a very small driller)



Now drill the 5 top rivets (in metric standard I need 5mm tip) and the 2 on the 45° side





Now drill the 5 rivets on the side of the bulkhead



The last step is to unbolt the 4 bolt on the side of the tunnel
Just knock the tunnel around the bulkhead and it comes off






Look at marks on the bulkhead for a good alignement of the new tunnel



At this point you can start to have doubts ... this sled could be return all togheter?

Install Timbersled new tunnel

Let me start with some weights

Stock 121 tunnel with rear bumper , tunnel protect and drop brackets

15,2 kg – 33lb



Timbersled 162 tunnel without rear bumper, drop brackets and protectors (but with running board snow eliminators) . As soon as possible I’ll post rear bumper and brackets weight)

10.9 kg – 24 lb



Step by step the project become less boring and more interesting

Put in position the new tunnel supporting his rear and front.





This tunnel has a ‘flat head’ compared to the stock one





So I need to bend a little (very little) the top of the bulkhead to have the tunnel free to move for a properly alignment.



Working from under the tunnel and using the mark made before it’s easy to find the alignment.

In this moment is better if have an other couple of hands … you keep firm the tunnel from under it and your friend make the first two holes (one as down as possible and one as up as possible) on each side.



Now you can take the gussets and rivet them inside the tunnel by the holes just drilled



At this point the tunnel can stay up alone and your imagination can start to fly on the snow





Now we can drill and rivet the top of the bulkhead. To have it in the right position (I bended it before) I pass two nylon belt trough the exaust bulkhead hole and the rear of the tunnel (sorry no pic of the belt, I was excited by the new tunnel).



Than I drill the two holes to bolt the manifold cover plate and I threaded it with an M6 tap.



Drilled in the tunnel the 45° 2 holes by an M6 tap

As said by Timbersled I put all bolts instead of rivets in the bulkhead



Is the time of the bulkhead sides.
I’ve to do 10 holes. First start with 8 holes (leaving the two rivets in their position).

I drilled in two time. First with a very small tap to have a perfect center in bulkhead stock hole, than with a M10 tap.





Finnaly bolted the tunnel with the hardware provided by Timbersled (special slim nuts)

In the picture there is an error. The top bolt is wrong, it’s the place to bolt in the footrest.



At this point you can drill the 2 rivets you put at the beginning and substitute them with bolts.

Now I drilled the others holes marked on the gussets from the inside of the tunnel and put rivets.





Pictures from the inside





A little fight with the under tunnel rivets (if you work alone) to re install the plate



Is the time to re install the footrest but it is a bad work because the new tunnel running boards have different desing and measures from the stock ones.

There is no a standard procedure … just apply a little of your fantasy
I started bolting the main tube to the bulkhead without tighten.



Than I fixed the toe hooks to the main tube and I marked the two hole in the tunnel.

The same I do with the shroud marking on the side of the tunell and on the running boards.
Remove the toe hooks and the shroud and drill the holes





Now put all together without tighten

I fixed the main tube to the external of running boards using only one of the two hole because of the different design of the tunnel.

Is not bad to see and all the footrest is strongly fixed



The assembly was not still perfect so I used a nylon belt between the sterring columns and one of the external holes of the shroud to pull it in a better position.
Than I drilled the holes and fixed the shroud to the main tube (sorry it was 2.30 am and I forgot to take the last picture of this step).

Finally I lock all bolts



Ok now I’ve to go to work (the true work) to have money to go on with the project