Cheap Fix for Soft Rearsuspension

Remi

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My XTX does 2-up riding half of the time, and it's way to soft at the rear.
Stepping of the snowmobile, I guess it returns some 50-70% of the available shock-traveling distance, and it goes all in to often when it's bumpy.
My Yamaha dealer sugests harder rear spring, and wants blood for a pair....

Got a tip today from a friend who got it from a snowmobil-dealer, and I've wrenched it, but not driven it yet:
When you remove the upper wheel, the torsion spring-coil is revealed, and you can see it has no intension on staying on axis, it is "twisted".
I've inserted som plastic tubing inside the spring-coil, forcing it to stay more centered, therefore getting it to do more work.
I did put it back on Hard, and it now returns almost all the way upp when it has no load, I might go down to Medium of Soft....
Important that the plastic is'nt to tight on the coil-side (outer side), because the radius of the coil will decrease when compressed, and it need some space for this.

Also, I removed the plastic thingy thats in there protecting the steel from the spring, as my plasticinserts does that job just fine.

Some said that it was a rather common thig done with some earlyer Phazers.
Would like to hear some opinions.
Since I cant find anny thing similar here on the forum, here's some photos (Since I know Ya'll love photos)
 

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Yep, Hygear suspensions makes a spring spacer that does the same thing.... It is highly recommended. Good info..
 
Good tip. I'll probably incorporate this into my spring repairs and maintenance. Since I weigh 300 Lbs and occasionally have a passenger, this should help. Cheap and easy. Can't beat that! Thanks! :-o
 
I went with the Hygear spacers this year and also went with the 4th click adjusters to get the coil springs working to my desire.
Much better in my mind.
Not a whole lot cheaper than 2 stiffer springs, but I was not wanting to go too hard either.
 
My local Yamaha dealer asks for US$ 1000,- for a pair of stiffer springs. (Norway.....)
I've used 2 different sizes of watertubing, cost me nothing except 45min of my evening :)
 
If you have it that way it´s not going to work cause the spring is going to be smaller in diameter when it´s compressed.
 
mrtwostroke said:
If you have it that way it´s not going to work cause the spring is going to be smaller in diameter when it´s compressed.
As I said:
My self said:
Important that the plastic is'nt to tight on the coil-side (outer side), because the radius of the coil will decrease when compressed, and it need some space for this.
If I DO have enough room between the plastcitubing & the coil is another matter, it do look thighter in the pictures than it actualy was.
I'll try it, and take it out and remove some of it if it's to tight.
If I was a greather matematician, I'd calculate the diameter when compressed max ;)

I'd meashure and post more pictures, but now Easter-vacation starts, leaving for the cabin right now
Happy Holliday to ya all :-o
 
mrtwostroke said:
If you have it that way it´s not going to work cause the spring is going to be smaller in diameter when it´s compressed.

In theory you're correct, but for what little bit it actually "wraps" up, it doesn't really shrink in diameter over the suspension travel. My only concern might be (and I doubt would be much of an issue) that the rubber may wear or come apart easier over time than the material the Hygear spacers are made of? (Nylon?) Maybe a little shot of a dry graphite lube or something and who knows, maybe they'll hold up indefinitley? Looks like a great idea to me!
 
Installed the Hygear torsion spacers, now the rear suspension works, I can use the soft spring stting rather than full stiff with better ride and performance out of the skid.

mj
 
Again, a lot of people need to learn the difference between spring rate and spring preload. Trying to cure frequent bottoming out by adding spring preload is a questionable method. Unless you absolutely love to fight a high center of gravity...
 
Remi said:
Done some 200km now, totally new sled :-o
And it cost me nothing ;)!

need to share the details of what exact pipe and trim details so others can do it!
 
Alatalo said:
Again, a lot of people need to learn the difference between spring rate and spring preload. Trying to cure frequent bottoming out by adding spring preload is a questionable method. Unless you absolutely love to fight a high center of gravity...

I agree. The springs hold the sled up. Once that point has been established, it's about damping.

The other point that should be kept in mind is that all 3 spring adjusting points (front/center/rear) MUST be balanced as one. If you crank up the front end trying for the sno cross look without doing anything else - I will almost guarantee trouble getting the rear to return to the top of it's travel on it's own.
 
Well, the spring did'nt hold the sled up.
And the retailer agreed that the rear spring (generaly, not only mine) is to weak and are in a dialogue with Yamaha to take responsebility (something I doubt they will, after all, it's registered for 1)
This or that, the sled is totaly different in a better way, might not be the prefeered way to fix it, but it's free.
If I can get new harder springs on warranty, I'll change.

Before this fix it was horrible to be a passenger. Before easter we where when riding hardpacked snow/icey conditions, so my wife had to drive after 10km, and I was on the back. I couldent belive how bad it was! Had to finished the last 30km beeing a passenger on a Doo 600 XP Renegade :o| , and that one was on all-soft, and never botomed....

sj, I'll take some meashurements, but it was "random" pipes that did fit inside, no big mathematic or calculations :)

Did try the "new" spring on Soft & Medium, but then it did'nt press the rear enough upp again.
 


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