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Any pics/links to hooking up an electric shield?

Irv

Irv

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Mar 23, 2005
Messages
3,778
Age
59
Location
ONT. Canada
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2008 40th Anniversary Vector.
1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Going electric this year and I want to hard wire it in so it is only on when the sled is running.

Any info/tips to a practically inept electric person would be great appreciated ;)!

(if it matters, I purchased a HJC Hellion helmet with the E-Shield)
 

I dident like the Yamaha one, It would always unplug and fog/ice up all of a sudden and would have a hard time "catching up" and clearing up.
 
yamahas said:
I dident like the Yamaha one, It would always unplug and fog/ice up all of a sudden and would have a hard time "catching up" and clearing up.
Click to expand...

X2, heard the same, looking to hard wire only.
 
I hard wired mine to the back side of the DC plug so that the plug was still available for other uses and it happens to be fused. Another option is the blue (pretty sure it's blue) wire that feeds the brake switch at the bars, pick a ground spot. Leave 4-6 inches hanging out of the bar pad, this will allow the cable to orientate to the direction of pull should you forget to disconnect or get ejected.
 
Crewchief47 said:
I hard wired mine to the back side of the DC plug so that the plug was still available for other uses and it happens to be fused. Another option is the blue (pretty sure it's blue) wire that feeds the brake switch at the bars, pick a ground spot. Leave 4-6 inches hanging out of the bar pad, this will allow the cable to orientate to the direction of pull should you forget to disconnect or get ejected.
Click to expand...

Thanks Crewchief, is there only 2 wires going to the DC plug, if so, which one do I tap into or do I use both and that will be it?

Sorry, not much knowledge at all with the electric side of things.
 
monte1214 said:
- When you come to see the Superclamps, check mine out.
- Good excuse to drink beer! :drink:
Click to expand...

LOL! Irv, the center one is the + and the other the ground though you can use any bolt for the ground.

The shield doesn't actually care which way it's hooked up but the bare plug hanging from the bars should be hooked up this way so it doesn't short on any metal when not in use.
 
Crewchief47 said:
monte1214 said:
- When you come to see the Superclamps, check mine out.
- Good excuse to drink beer! :drink:
Click to expand...

LOL! Irv, the center one is the + and the other the ground though you can use any bolt for the ground.

The shield doesn't actually care which way it's hooked up but the bare plug hanging from the bars should be hooked up this way so it doesn't short on any metal when not in use.
Click to expand...

Thanks again Crwchief, I appreciate your help!


John, not sure about beers tomorrow but we'll see?
Going to the PPSC open house now?
 
Crewchief47 said:
monte1214 said:
- When you come to see the Superclamps, check mine out.
- Good excuse to drink beer! :drink:
Click to expand...

LOL! Irv, the center one is the + and the other the ground though you can use any bolt for the ground.

The shield doesn't actually care which way it's hooked up but the bare plug hanging from the bars should be hooked up this way so it doesn't short on any metal when not in use.
Click to expand...

trying to wrap my mind around this...so the power an ground going to the DC plug I assume before the modular connector...youre tapping into that...? isnt that only a 3a circuit?
 
Yep. And since Yamaha is selling a heated shield adapter for the 3 amp circuit, I guess it should be enough. Unless of course they are including a higher rated fuse with the adapter. At any rate, it's likely that the circuit can handle more than that anyway. In fact think I have a higher fuse in there due to the Yamaheater (if the DC outlet is on the ACC circuit). I have my GPS wired to a switched lead off the ignition key and the heated shield off the backside of the DC outlet (standard on the MTX), leaving the socket available for god knows what else.
 
Unsure and being electrically inept I decided to hook my e- wiring directly to the battery.
It was definitely a PIA just to get there but it is something I guess I am going to have to get use to.

Any issues running it drect this way, without an on/off switch?
 
Shouldn,t be a problem, but put a 3 amp inline fuse on the red positive wire as close to the battery as you can, but put it in a spot were you can change the fuse without having to take your sled apart. Possibly route it hear the cooling hose near the thermostat so you can easily get at it if the fuse blows.
 
I hope you put a fuse close to the battery, otherwise if the wire shorts, you'll get the smoke to come out.

edit LOL.
You beat me.
 
#1APEXRIDER said:
Shouldn,t be a problem, but put a 3 amp inline fuse on the red positive wire as close to the battery as you can, but put it in a spot were you can change the fuse without having to take your sled apart. Possibly route it hear the cooling hose near the thermostat so you can easily get at it if the fuse blows.
Click to expand...

:o| She's buttoned all back up folks and no fuse installed.
Is it absolutely necessary and if so, then why wouldn't it be suggested in the kit?
No doubting you guy's, just makes me wonder why it wasn't suggested in the instructions,,,,,,or it is only more important to do on Yamaha snowmobiles for some reason?

Curious on what you mean will smoke? The e-shield wires, the battery or something more serious?
Not really into tearing half the sled apart again so is it absolutely necessary and is it absoluetly necessary to be real close to the battery?

Thanks........Irv
 
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