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2011 APEX-SE---STUD LENGTH AND NUMBER???

snomodoc

snomodoc

Lifetime Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
37
Location
BALDWIN,NY
Any opinons on stud length and how many on 128" track? Clearence
seems be the same as before,07APEX GT.
 

Be cautious with your stud lengths! There is not much clearance on the 2011 Apex & Apex SE models (slightly more clearance on the XTX models). You will need to add extra protection to the tunnel protectors with studs in order to keep it from hitting the exhaust!
 
Did you hit yours or just being cautious? It doesn't look any closer than 2010 model vector ltx gt when we looked. I agree it is close and wouldn't go more than 1.325 without adding some protection.
 
Srxspec said:
Be cautious with your stud lengths! There is not much clearance on the 2011 Apex & Apex SE models (slightly more clearance on the XTX models). You will need to add extra protection to the tunnel protectors with studs in order to keep it from hitting the exhaust!
Click to expand...


Even with 1.325's Allan?
 
SledFreak said:
153 1.450 down the center...
Click to expand...
Alright, then maybe it would be a good idea to shim the protectors first. How much lower does this exhaust hang over the old one?
 
On Apex & Apex SE models there is only approximately 12mm of clearance (0.472" or not quite a 1/2"). I just measured a new Ripsaw track with Snow Studs 1.375" length studs in it and it has 0.433" of stud sticking out above the track lug. It takes very, very little "deflection" of the lug when it hits the tunnel protectors to get rid of the 0.040" of "clearance". With the extrovert drivers you can run the track looser than normal which means more ballooning and more track slapping into the tunnel protectors or exhaust possibly when hitting the brakes at high speed or bottoming out at high speed. I would look at a way to lower the skid out of the tunnel slightly myself, or I would add a 1/8" thick piece to the existing tunnel protectors (but be cautious, I have seen some tracks on the new 2011 128" model that were rubbing against the tunnel protectors stock, take a look at how much clearance you have from the tip of the track lugs to the tunnel protectors before adding anything).

On Apex XTX models I think you'll be hearing later in the season that the rear heat exchanger will get hit by studs when bottoming or going from high speed and slamming on the brakes. Space down the rear portion of these exchangers or add some more to the rear portion!

Yamaha Sled Talk Blog (Chris), love the picture of Gordy lifting the SSR in the "Crossing Over" blog! He looks alot younger than the last time we saw him in 2003 or so!
 
You are saying for an Apex XTX just add some hyfax on the back for more protection for the rear heat exchanger?

The 128" & SE should add some more protection to what they have under the tunnel.
 
Keep in mind as well, and I'm sure Allen will agree, the length of your studs has alot to do with the general riding conditions as well. Dont go too long with your studs if you ride marginal conditions often.
 
Srxspec said:
On Apex & Apex SE models there is only approximately 12mm of clearance (0.472" or not quite a 1/2"). I just measured a new Ripsaw track with Snow Studs 1.375" length studs in it and it has 0.433" of stud sticking out above the track lug. It takes very, very little "deflection" of the lug when it hits the tunnel protectors to get rid of the 0.040" of "clearance". With the extrovert drivers you can run the track looser than normal which means more ballooning and more track slapping into the tunnel protectors or exhaust possibly when hitting the brakes at high speed or bottoming out at high speed. I would look at a way to lower the skid out of the tunnel slightly myself, or I would add a 1/8" thick piece to the existing tunnel protectors (but be cautious, I have seen some tracks on the new 2011 128" model that were rubbing against the tunnel protectors stock, take a look at how much clearance you have from the tip of the track lugs to the tunnel protectors before adding anything).

On Apex XTX models I think you'll be hearing later in the season that the rear heat exchanger will get hit by studs when bottoming or going from high speed and slamming on the brakes. Space down the rear portion of these exchangers or add some more to the rear portion!

Yamaha Sled Talk Blog (Chris), love the picture of Gordy lifting the SSR in the "Crossing Over" blog! He looks alot younger than the last time we saw him in 2003 or so!
Click to expand...

that sucks... So you don't think it's possible to run 1.450 stud in the new Apex using the stock track?
 
Srxspec said:
On Apex & Apex SE models there is only approximately 12mm of clearance (0.472" or not quite a 1/2"). I just measured a new Ripsaw track with Snow Studs 1.375" length studs in it and it has 0.433" of stud sticking out above the track lug. It takes very, very little "deflection" of the lug when it hits the tunnel protectors to get rid of the 0.040" of "clearance". With the extrovert drivers you can run the track looser than normal which means more ballooning and more track slapping into the tunnel protectors or exhaust possibly when hitting the brakes at high speed or bottoming out at high speed. I would look at a way to lower the skid out of the tunnel slightly myself, or I would add a 1/8" thick piece to the existing tunnel protectors (but be cautious, I have seen some tracks on the new 2011 128" model that were rubbing against the tunnel protectors stock, take a look at how much clearance you have from the tip of the track lugs to the tunnel protectors before adding anything).

On Apex XTX models I think you'll be hearing later in the season that the rear heat exchanger will get hit by studs when bottoming or going from high speed and slamming on the brakes. Space down the rear portion of these exchangers or add some more to the rear portion!

Yamaha Sled Talk Blog (Chris), love the picture of Gordy lifting the SSR in the "Crossing Over" blog! He looks alot younger than the last time we saw him in 2003 or so!
Click to expand...

Maybe sometype of lowering kit is in order, so we can run longer stud?
 
why not just take the stock track off, sell it, buy camoplast Ice Attak that has lug height of 1.063 comes with built in traction (useless or not) then stud that with some Woodys studs...
IMO, 1" track=better top end(+)better accel if studded (+) more penetration(+)piece of mind knowing you have STOPPING capability when you use that 160+HP

$14,000 for a sled, whats another $300-400 to help from slamming into the back of the guys at a stop sign and having to watch from the porch as they drive by for the rest of winter or worse...OH YEAH :yam:
 
The 1" track will not accelerate as hard as a 1.25" track in looser snow conditions. Maybe on super hard pack it will be equal acceleration, but any other place you will sacrifice, especially with the low end & midrange grunt of the 2011. You will also still have to add to the tunnel protectors with a 1" track as well because most guys would likely try to run longer studs in the 1" track.
 
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