Smity
Newbie
Hi everyone i am new here and looking for any tips or tricks to replacing the outer bearing on the countershaft without a major tear down. Pulled the side cover to do the seal and gave the bearing a spin and it is very rough and signs of rust, i was told rust could be from use of synthetic oil use. Regardless i need to change the bearing and hopefully in the motor if possible?? Any one out there been down this road before?? Thanks for any input..
thor452
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you may have better results if you post in the rx1 section.
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I move this into the RX Section for you.
Smity
Newbie
Thanks
YammyRX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
What are you referring to as the 'countershaft'? There is the jackshaft (upper) which your secondary clutch is mounted on, and the driveshaft (lower) which drives the track. The left bearing on the driveshaft usually goes first because it gets a lot of moisture and it is easy to change. The left jackshaft bearing would be the next one that needs replacing and it is a little harder and probably will involve taking the chaincase apart. The right side bearings are in the chaincase and are always getting oil so they do not go that often but if you have the chaincase apart you might as well change them all. There is a step by step in the Tech section. Or are you talking about the shaft that the primary clutch is on?
Smity
Newbie
The shaft i refer to is # 17 in the attachment it is internal to the engine and is driven of the crankshaft, the primary clutch assembly is mounted to it. Yamaha wants to sell me complete shaft, i have removed old one and it has 6306 on outer race and YRI5 HS stamped on inner Koyo tells me it is a proprietary bearing custom made for oem..i dont need the whole shaft but feels like im getting it anyway...
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YammyRX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
Oh that sucks! I've never heard of anyone having to replace that but I'm sure they are out there, just not many on here in the summer. When looking for parts everyone recommends Travis at Barn of Parts but I'm not sure anyone would sell that bearing alone.
BigDogrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
did the sled sit-unstarted for real long period of time?Hi everyone i am new here and looking for any tips or tricks to replacing the outer bearing on the countershaft without a major tear down. Pulled the side cover to do the seal and gave the bearing a spin and it is very rough and signs of rust, i was told rust could be from use of synthetic oil use. Regardless i need to change the bearing and hopefully in the motor if possible?? Any one out there been down this road before?? Thanks for any input..
hibshman25
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2018 snoscoot
Good chance I would have that bearing used, however typically recommend buying new when it comes to bearings.
I wouldn't have any problem with a used bearing that was free of rust and felt good when I spun it by hand. I have rarely heard of a failure and they have a steady supply of engine oil for long life. I think they are way overbuilt for stock engines and should last just about forever.
Sasquatch
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So I looked at the diagram and Yamaha sells it as an assembly. I have to ask did you remove the bearing? It may be pressed on and disassemble then would be required. I does look like its held in place by a bolt on cover so it may be removable. I can find a 6306 Koyo bearing and a SKF 6306 everything by the 63 number seems to be a deep groove bearing. The web site is a UK site however Ebay has the bearing listed. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/6306-bearing
KOYO http://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/koyo-6306-deep-groove-bearing-20x52x15/
SKF http://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/6306-skf-deep-groove-bearing-30-x-72-x-19mm/
Synthetic oil would not be the cause but high levels of condensation and water build up in the oil would cause rust. Short runs will build water long runs up to temp will help to get rid of moisture. My 455 boat engine had huge amounts of water as in milky oil buildup. Low temps caused by open thermostat for max water flow will do that! End of year it would take a couple oil changes and letting it idle with water from the garden hose turned down (Just enough flow to keep from overheating) to get the motor up to 200 degrees, neighbors loved the sound of a big block with no mufflers.
KOYO http://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/koyo-6306-deep-groove-bearing-20x52x15/
SKF http://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/6306-skf-deep-groove-bearing-30-x-72-x-19mm/
Synthetic oil would not be the cause but high levels of condensation and water build up in the oil would cause rust. Short runs will build water long runs up to temp will help to get rid of moisture. My 455 boat engine had huge amounts of water as in milky oil buildup. Low temps caused by open thermostat for max water flow will do that! End of year it would take a couple oil changes and letting it idle with water from the garden hose turned down (Just enough flow to keep from overheating) to get the motor up to 200 degrees, neighbors loved the sound of a big block with no mufflers.
thor452
Because I can
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- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
I had a belt blow and it wrapped around that shaft and destroyed the seal Yamaha would not sell just the seal either had to buy the whole side cover. Thanks to Pat's Yamaha up in Greenland MI they pulled a side cover off a used motor and we were able to get her back on the trail the same day was crazy how much they wanted for that side cover with the seal installed. I would not have a problem with a good used one either from OEM over aftermarket.
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