0W40

[DGZRT]

I'm an AMSOIL guy and this is why:
1. They were the first, or one of, to perfect synthetic oils
2. I buy it within a $1 of other comparable oils
3. It's ALWAYS in the top 3 or 4 of EVERY oil test i see along with Mobil1 & the older Pennzoil
4. They sponsor tons of events, including SnoCross, which helps racing and OUR sport!
5. I like saying the word AMSOIL. Makes me happy

What amazes me the most is some people that will go crazy saving $.50 or a $1 per bottle. That's 3 or $4 per change.
NOW $15 a quart is top dollar and if i could find name Brand oil for $5, i'd use it.
BUT, i find the good oils are $9 to $12 per quart.

ow-30 or ow-40?
We've got 7 months to talk, debate & argue this. LET's GO!

In the 540 RAT TECH FACTS : He claims that the additive PROLONG has awesome results !! So maybe we should all be adding a few oz of there product to our oil

1. Prolong Engine Treatment added to 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SN synthetic = 136,658 psi
This oil on its own WITHOUT the Prolong Engine Treatment added to it, has a wear protection capability of 92,569 psi. With the recommended amount of Prolong added per qt, its wear protection capability “WENT UP 48%”.

So what do you think SteveO ??

 

[kyzer]

Fast:
The Yamaha dealer in blind river has 0-30 if your dealer doesn't sell it anymore! Ypu just call ahead and they do curbside pick up (because of c19)
If you ever decide to go there to pick some up drive a little further to massey and stop buy for a coffee or beer
I am only 1 min off hwy17

Good place to deal with. I bought my Viper there, very happy with the service there !!

 

[Turboflash]

In the 540 RAT TECH FACTS : He claims that the additive PROLONG has awesome results !! So maybe we should all be adding a few oz of there product to our oil

1. Prolong Engine Treatment added to 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SN synthetic = 136,658 psi
This oil on its own WITHOUT the Prolong Engine Treatment added to it, has a wear protection capability of 92,569 psi. With the recommended amount of Prolong added per qt, its wear protection capability “WENT UP 48%”.

So what do you think SteveO ??

Prolong is obviously helpful for Pennzoil Ultra to get it up from 92,569 psi to 136,658 psi. However, I don't think one can necessarily expect the same 48% increase when adding to many other oils tested. For example, the two Amsoil Signature Series oils that ranked #2 & #3 are over 134,000 right out of the bottle so whatever is in those seems to be similar in wear protection. Adding Prolong to these Amsoil oils might not yield the same results as adding it to the Pennzoil. Same may go for lots of other oils on the list. Keep in mind, over 105,000 psi is defined as "fantastic." If you read the blog, one point he makes is if whatever oil you are using is working (meaning the engine is running well with no problems) only means that the oil protection features are higher than what the minimum level needed is for that engine.

I like being able to just pour it right out of the bottle into my oil tank so I'm just gonna keep using Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30.

 

[stevewithOCD]

In the 540 RAT TECH FACTS : He claims that the additive PROLONG has awesome results !! So maybe we should all be adding a few oz of there product to our oil

1. Prolong Engine Treatment added to 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SN synthetic = 136,658 psi
This oil on its own WITHOUT the Prolong Engine Treatment added to it, has a wear protection capability of 92,569 psi. With the recommended amount of Prolong added per qt, its wear protection capability “WENT UP 48%”.

So what do you think SteveO ??

I've watched DOZENS of oil tests.
From the Ball Bearing Grinder test to the Frying Pan Discoloring test to the Cold Oil Pours that look like a slow motion version of the drinking game "the LUGE"
I've read so much that every oil i use, including cooking & "Love" oils, that i question whether it's good enough to handle the job.
I'ver added Prolong, Slick 50, Lucas, Liquid-Moly, STP to name just a few.
I read one report, i think DANNO posted it, that was sooooo long i fell asleep & realized i'm either not smart enough or just don't care enough.

I can tell you this.
When i put Full Syn in my Duramax it leaked. When i went back to Rotella same weight, it STOPPED leaking.
That shows me Synthetic at least "acts" thinner.

I know that NASCAR puts NO oil in the rear differential when they need to gain a micro-second to qualify.
That shows me that oil slows things down & the thinner it is, works in a similar way. Albeit it won't last.
What you extrapolate from that is up to you.
I also know that over-filling an engine can also SLOW down a motor when the crankshaft splashes through the oil.

I've learned that in EVERY test 4 or 5 oils rise to the top. AMSOIL-MOBIL-PENNZOIL-QUAKER STATE
I've learned putting in the "Good Stuff" for an extra 4 or $5 or even $10 for each oil change helps me sleep better.
I've also learned that a well rested SteveO is hard to keep up with wether on a sled, bike, talking or even using one of those "Love" oils.

P.S: If you don't know what the "Luge" is..................look it up...................or go to College
P.S2: Algae oil is Best for cooking, but Ghee oil tastes better. Astroglide may be good for "Loving", but don't try to cook with it!

 

[KnappAttack]

Dam I’ve been reading this (Huge) link and it’s kinda changed my perspective on Zinc/phos oil content. I will say Rat is a little radical in his opinions on this. It has been proven that zinc/phosphorus helps protect certain engine parts, it’s been accepted and proven for many many years. He is really bucking thousands of real world tests that prove this, but I do think he is correct in many aspects. It’s true that too much of a good thing can be detrimental in almost any case, very interesting and lengthy read, good “Rona reading” that’s for sure!

I talked to our lubrication specialist at work and he was not really in agreement with Rat. He says on critical items we test out oil for zinc/phosphorus content. He said they watch those numbers and they have it down to a Science of when the oil will need changing. They also look a particle count and size but when that gets high they just run a filter cart over and clean and dry the oil. He said if the zinc/phosphorus gets really low a failure is eminent, so there has to be atleast some in the oil.
Anyhow I’m thinking of switching to AMS oil after reading this link!

There are many not in agreement, they are old school, remember many believed the earth was flat too? But I know this for certain, I've used high zinc/phos or even break in oil in engines when new or had new cams in and wiped cams crapped out, so reading what Rat talks about just using the oil that's high on the list, I believe now, no more wiped cams since, no more high zinc oils for me! I've seen enough firsthand to believe. One of my Hot Rod buddies turned me on to his blog years ago.

I've been using Quaker State 0-20 in my Chevy truck with the 5.3, Quaker State 0-30 in the 998Winder and Mobile 1 0-40 in my Audi 4.2. My Gold Wing 1800 and Pioneer 1000 I also use Mobile1 0-40, although I find it a bit heavy in the Poineer, so plan to switch it to 0-30 Quaker State. Nice thing is all these oils are right up there in the top 5 and readily available at Walmart too, just walk in a grab it anytime, and they are right there with Amsoil for wear protection. Typically I'll do oil samples now and again, but I've seen such low wear lately, I'm not even sure I'll bother anymore. Think OCD does oil samples? Lets see how OCD he really is. LOL!

 

[cannondale27]

Back in the day The Cannondales had a issue with soft cams. Almost all would wear the lobes right off! We noticed those of us running Amsoil had way less failures. Real solution was running DLC coated buckets from Aceldyne but the difference was notable with the oil. I do know someone who lost 3-5mph with a oil change to Yamaha oil in a Apex. I run this 0-40 weight because it works in summer and winter toys but I admit I am intrigued with a 30wt if it’s good for a couple mph. Need all help I can get!
Here’s a shot cam lobe

 

[ClutchMaster]

Don’t get all left wing on me, zinc reduces film strength but is helpful. Moving parts are going to touch (starting when it’s so cold the trees pop like firecrackers) when they do, zinc helps protect. It’s a trade off for sure so I try too find an oil that has both high film strength and high zinc.

https://www.hyperlube.com/blog/engine/the-effects-of-zinc-oil-additives-on-older-engines/

I worked part time as a mechanic in the early 90’s and I remember cars well past break-in period showing up by the boatloads with wiped out cams, so I’m a hard sell that zinc does nothing.

OCD P.s. sometime around 1990 government (lefty’s) forced oil manufacturers to limit the zinc in engine oils due to emissions concerns.

 

[Fast]

I would think that all the oil changes would need to have been performed by the dealer in order get said warranty, but even then I am HIGHLY skeptical that a machine that is many years outside of regular warranty would get a new engine

The dealer informed me that we can do out own oil changes for 20 year warranty but has to be done in the spring and just keep reciepts

 

[DGZRT]

I've watched DOZENS of oil tests.
From the Ball Bearing Grinder test to the Frying Pan Discoloring test to the Cold Oil Pours that look like a slow motion version of the drinking game "the LUGE"
I've read so much that every oil i use, including cooking & "Love" oils, that i question whether it's good enough to handle the job.
I'ver added Prolong, Slick 50, Lucas, Liquid-Moly, STP to name just a few.
I read one report, i think DANNO posted it, that was sooooo long i fell asleep & realized i'm either not smart enough or just don't care enough.

I can tell you this.
When i put Full Syn in my Duramax it leaked. When i went back to Rotella same weight, it STOPPED leaking.
That shows me Synthetic at least "acts" thinner.

I know that NASCAR puts NO oil in the rear differential when they need to gain a micro-second to qualify.
That shows me that oil slows things down & the thinner it is, works in a similar way. Albeit it won't last.
What you extrapolate from that is up to you.
I also know that over-filling an engine can also SLOW down a motor when the crankshaft splashes through the oil.

I've learned that in EVERY test 4 or 5 oils rise to the top. AMSOIL-MOBIL-PENNZOIL-QUAKER STATE
I've learned putting in the "Good Stuff" for an extra 4 or $5 or even $10 for each oil change helps me sleep better.
I've also learned that a well rested SteveO is hard to keep up with wether on a sled, bike, talking or even using one of those "Love" oils.

P.S: If you don't know what the "Luge" is..................look it up...................or go to College
P.S2: Algae oil is Best for cooking, but Ghee oil tastes better. Astroglide may be good for "Loving", but don't try to cook with it!

Went to college ! Got two degrees ! But never got to experience the Double Lung "Luge " I guessing I'm just to old ........ We should start a LUBE forum for the Summer !

 

[ClutchMaster]

Yeah...some of the variable valve timing engines need the thinner oil to get lube there quickly, so they say. I did manage to blow up an old 1970's k301 Kohler, but not oil related. I over rode the governor and the top of the piston broke off at the ring groove! That was new even for me!
Still have 2 more cubs so no zero turn for me yet! It's tough...my son in law and I get all this old junk running and they last for years. Just ressurected a mcculloch 3216 found in a dumpster. Now 8 saws running..lmao!!

Oh no way! I’ve got an old Wheel Horse with a K241! Built a K241/K301 stroker motor going in my log splitter this summer. I finally upgraded to a zero turn, half the time mowing the lawn so I’m FINALLY gave in!

 

[ApexXTX/Viper]

Five pages in and no mention of "wet clutch compatibility"! I thought only Yamalube, Amsoil Powersports Formula and Castrol 0W30 (European Formula with no friction modifiers - non "Energy Conserving") were about that only "compatible" oils?

 

[74Nitro]

Five pages in and no mention of "wet clutch compatibility"! I thought only Yamalube, Amsoil Powersports Formula and Castrol 0W30 (European Formula with no friction modifiers - non "Energy Conserving") were about that only "compatible" oils?

What wet clutch?

 

[ApexXTX/Viper]

What wet clutch?

Fully aware of that! But in earlier threads it was mentioned that the starter does not like friction modifiers! ie wet clutch compatible means no friction modifiers. I believe Yamaha themselves used to say no friction modifiers! Has that changed?

 

[ClutchMaster]

What wet clutch?

Motorcycle oil .....has a wet clutch

Positraction rear end additive is a friction modifier. Prevents clutch chatter

 

[DGZRT]

Fully aware of that! But in earlier threads it was mentioned that the starter does not like friction modifiers! ie wet clutch compatible means no friction modifiers. I believe Yamaha themselves used to say no friction modifiers! Has that changed?

Our Sleds do not have a Gear box like a Motorcycle . So no Wet clutch. We have a One way clutch that the starter turns . The Clutch turns the gears which starts the motor . Everyone correct me if I'm wrong on this .