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2012 AK sled build

Got the shocks mounted, I had to make 3/16" spacers for the top and 7/16" for the bottom. I'm going to hang onto my Ohlins until I get some ride time on these and make sure I don't regret going back to a Float.





And here's of pic of that steering arm bearing for you Mike.
 

I made ski bolts today. Before I got too carried away I cut a piece of 3/8" .058, installed it with a vice grip on each side, and then rocked the sled side to side maybe 25-30 times continuously slamming the 4130 side down to the garage floor trying to bend it. I'm confident the tube will be strong enough, but wanted to do a quick test. Only time will tell now.


For the tube bolts I started with 3/8" .058 4130. I then drilled out a couple thin 3/8" jam nuts to fit over the tubes and fused them together.


I wanted to stick with standard hardware, but using a 5/16" bolt would have required drilling the end of the tube out to 9/32 before tapping, so I went with 8mmx1.25 bolts which only required drilling to 17/64. Tapped the ends only deep enough to thread a 8mmx1.25x12 bolt. Here's the new hardware 100% done.


New hardware in front of the old bolts which I had previously cut down to be flush with the nut.


Both tock 10mm ski bolts (which had been cut to 140mm) with nuts and washers were .55 lbs
My new tube bolts complete are only .29 lbs for both

Total weight loss of .26 lbs which I think is pretty good considering it's only from two new bolts. As with all the parts I'm making, I'll be sure to post if they fail out on the snow.
 
Thanks Bud....! Now I really don't understand why there isn't a zerk.

Keep those development coming.

BTW, had some damage to the rear upper wheel axle (top of scissor) on my AC skid where the bearings seat on the shaft. Couldn't get both of those stupid wavy washer's to fit so went with one, but by doing so, the wheels wobbled and the bearing cut into the axle shaft. Minor, but stupid.

Anyway, decided to swap skids and install my 1st Generation Timbersled skid (designed for AC M) and WOW, something's different. Seems to more easily hold a carve and none of the top heaviness/tendency to tip at the limit. Carved fast and slow equally well... an impressive improvement that I wasn't expecting..

Don't really understand why as I don't think I was going fast enough for the coupler to take effect but who knows, there is a bit of centrifugal force in there as we bank.

The one big difference is the front shock spring rate and preload appears to be way higher on the TS verses the AC (I think). I am running the 175lb spring on the AC skid with preload at about 7.4" (static 8") and on the TS, I was running 85 psi (about 5 psi below TS recommended). Both have stiff dampeners, so I don't think that's at play as much. I think you run the 160# spring. How much preload you running?

Anyway, don't know if you've tried the TS on the beast, but it's definitely different in a good way.

Had a good laugh with the riding buddies, I said maybe it's just hero snow, but when a few dumped doing donuts, they disagreed...LOL

Mike
 
I'll check the preload tomorrow. Timbersled skids are great, I'd like to eventually upgrade to one by next fall.

I worked on the brake tonight. First job was filing the caliper mount to clear the caliper.


Next I narrowed the spacer all the way to the set screw. This was after removing about .2" of splines from the hub to get the disc over far enough. Such a PIA doing this stuff without a lathe. For the hub I used a combination of a unibit, files, dremel, and drill press. For the spacer, after I cut it down with a hacksaw I clamped it to the drill press table, put a roloc disc in the drill press and was able to get it within .002 checking with the micrometer all the way around.


Went a hair to far and had to add a .020 shim to center the brake disc in the caliper.


Secured the hub to the brake disc and opened the smaller holes up to 7/32".


There was no way I was going to put steel rivets back in, so I cut down some 7/32 solid aluminum rivets to the correct length and set them.




Brake disc is done and sitting where it needs to.


Tomorrow I'm going to cut a groove for a new snap ring next to the shim and then I'll be able to cut about 1/2" of jackshaft off.


I'm am doing this for weight loss, but primarily to gain clearance between the brake caliper and side panel.
 
Brake is done. Didn't save much weight (.13 lbs + whatever the alu rivets saved), but it did create a lot more room and tidy things up.

Used a dremel to cut a groove for a new snap ring.


Then cut off the end of jackshaft.


Pulled the .020 shim from the inside and ended up with a .030 shim on each side of the hub. It still floats a little like the stock setup.


Centered on the caliper.


100% done.

 
I ordered the rod ends, tube adapters, and aluminum jam nuts yesterday. I got 5/8" rod ends for the lower a-arms, 1/2" for the upper a-arms, and 3/8" for the tie rods. I stuck with the FK rod ends as they had the highest load ratings of any of the ones I found. The 5/8" are $45/ea, the 1/2" are $35/ea, and the 3/8" are $30/ea. Hopefully the quality is reflected in the price.

Here's the specs on them.



Lower a-arms will be 1" .058 4130
Upper a-arms will be 7/8" .058 4130
Tie rods will be 5/8" .058 4130

I'm going to try for around 2.5" to 3" forward so I can use straight tie rods. Ski stance will be close to 36". I'm hoping to lose about 3-4 lbs between the a-arms and tie rods rods. The Skinz a-arms are fairly heavy and the my current tie rods are 3/4" .065 I think.

I'm going to Vegas for a week tomorrow but the parts should be here when I get back.
 
Got the rod ends and tube adapters. These things are huge! In the middle of the top row is an original Skinz 1/2" rod end. On the left are the FK 5/8, and on the right are the FK 1/2". Below are the 3/8" for the rod ends. They aren't light, all six FK rod ends and tube adapters weigh 3.15 lbs, but I don't see any chance of breaking them. I got the sled stripped so tomorrow I'll start building the new 36" front end.
 
I switched gears today and decided to redo the bodywork. For awhile now I've been wanting to make simple, compact, tight fitting sidepanels. I wanted one panel on each side(instead of lower plastics, sidepanels, and alu panels) that I could remove for complete access to the sled. I also wanted to eliminate having anything in front of my feet so I can get my boots closer to the chaincase and secondary clutch for tight maneuvers when your body weight needs to be as far forward as possible.

Everything in the picture is what will be replaced. Side panels, lower plastics, all aluminum panels, the 4130 tubes no longer needed (I about cried cutting these out). Total weight for everything pictured including all the hardware is a hefty 14.05 lbs.

It will be replaced with two small carbon fiber side panels, a hood, and a front plate. I was surprised by the weight of everything I removed. I should be able to drop around 8 lbs here (maybe more) and get a very sleek look and low profile for cutting sidehills.




Sunday I need to finish moving the oil tank all the way over against the engine, and then I'll start add cardboard and wrapping things in plastic so I can begin the foam process.
 
Why tear it down now ? Do you have another sled to ride or how is your season over there ?

not that im complaining, i have been waiting for you to continue your build.
 
It's been a terrible winter, probably one of the worst I can remember for most of our riding areas. I also wanted a chance to test carbon fiber body work this winter so I could see how it holds up for future projects. Lastly, I really do enjoy wrenching as much as riding.
 
cant wait to see your a-arm design
u looking to start from scratch or looking at a certain design?
36" what camber and caster you going to run
 
I understand, our winter here is also a disaster.
We have not had this little snow since i moved here, but is only because i now have a snowblower and almost a sled ready :o|

But i agree on the wrenching and planning.

Nikolai said:
It's been a terrible winter, probably one of the worst I can remember for most of our riding areas. I also wanted a chance to test carbon fiber body work this winter so I could see how it holds up for future projects. Lastly, I really do enjoy wrenching as much as riding.
Click to expand...
 
..SNAKEBIT.. said:
cant wait to see your a-arm design
u looking to start from scratch or looking at a certain design?
36" what camber and caster you going to run
Click to expand...

They won't be anything special. I don't have a tube bender so the bends will have to mitered and welded, they aren't going to be pretty haha. I'm shooting for 2.5"-3" forward, -1 to -2 camber and 24-25 caster. It will be awhile though, body work is the priority now since I already have a usable front end. And on that note, I got all the prep work done tonight. Finished moving the oil tank cover, cleaned up the welds where I cut the old tubes off, and cleaned the chassis. I also picked up the foam, tape, cardboard, and bubblewrap tonight so tomorrow after work I can start fresh.

The oil tank moved over about 1/2" I think, all the way against the inspection plug. Anyone know the dimensions of a Phazer tank and if they're narrower (from engine to sidepanel)?


Had to cut the upper mounts back. Got rid of the hex head bolts for lighter button heads.


Shouldn't take much of a sidepanel to cover the chaincase/brake and oil tank.

 
Hi Nicolai.

Really enjoy your build threads. Saw you wrote that you don´t have a pipe bender.

In sweden we have a simple pipe bender at a low cost about 100 euro.

Works pretty good, as long you don´t have to do really sharp bends.
 

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