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Aftermarket rear shock for 2006 rage


How much are we talking as far as price to do that stubbs
Check out the Barn of Parts website for pricing on the dual rate springs. Given you’re from the US, I’d shoot @cannondale27 a PM on here about having your rear shock rebuilt and the valving updated at the same time. If I lived South if the border Steve would get all of my shock work.
 

Does my weight factor into the setup of the spring and valving? I'm 6 foot and weigh 245 without gear on.
 
Does my weight factor into the setup of the spring and valving? I'm 6 foot and weigh 245 without gear on.
I know Travis has different Rate springs based on rider weight. For valving I base it on rider input found by riding with a known good shock and stock adjustments fully tested. There is a huge range on stock shock. Critical to get sag set first. Apex sticky has some great threads for setting up Mono sag. Then the clicker adjustment. You want it as fast as possible without kicking in rear through whoops. If at that point it still bottoms valving is needed. My advice. Get shock refreshed by me. $30. Set sag Free. Start in middle of dial or about 16 clicks out of adjuster if cable is shot or missing.
 
I’ve had great performance from my 136” Mono skids in the Deltabox chassis with a 5.0-6.5 dual rate spring from BOP, but I weigh about 50 lbs less than you do. My GF is about 60 lbs less than me and a 4.5-6.0 dual rate seems to work great for her, but Travis from BOP has the most experience and feed back with his springs. @cannondale27 is who you want to talk to about the valving.
 
I know Travis has different Rate springs based on rider weight. For valving I base it on rider input found by riding with a known good shock and stock adjustments fully tested. There is a huge range on stock shock. Critical to get sag set first. Apex sticky has some great threads for setting up Mono sag. Then the clicker adjustment. You want it as fast as possible without kicking in rear through whoops. If at that point it still bottoms valving is needed. My advice. Get shock refreshed by me. $30. Set sag Free. Start in middle of dial or about 16 clicks out of adjuster if cable is shot or missing.
I will have to read over the different threads. I don't even know how to set sag or how to adjust the clicker at all. Do I need a special tool or move it by hand? I'm not very mechanical at all. I impressed myself when I changed out the exhaust donuts a couple of weeks ago. I have over 6000 miles on the sled now. The front shocks should be redone too?
 
I didn't mention the type of riding I do. I just ride groomed trails in the U.P of Michigan. I live in southern lower Michigan (Jackson). I don't ride slow but not real fast either.
 
I guess while I'm at it I might as well put a new track on it too. What's the tallest lug that will work on the rage?
 
Once the rear suspension is sorted time for the front . Read thru Catmans setup and trust it . Many people have told me not to loosen the front shock springs and they are wrong ! If you want awesome handling a set of Snowtrackers carbides will help it rail and provide lighter steering. Once you get it dialed you will enjoy it for years to come
 
For a track I would go with a Ripsaw 2 at 1.5” high . Good price and very durable. People will have many opinions on the track .
 
pre studded 1-1/2" lug should go in there no issues.
 
The large shock in the rear only has rebound only . No compression adjustment. I’m not sure if you have a dial on the left side or your tunnel?? It will say hard soft on the dial . This adjust your rebound. If you don’t have the dial there is a screw adjustment on end of the shock which can be adjusted with a #2 square drive bit .

Maybe take a picture of your tunnel on the left side and show us . On both of my Vectors the adjustment cable broke and the shock was locked into one position.
Took the shock off and the cable wasn't crimpt down connecting it into the shock.
 
I have two sleds with the Mono and on both of them the cables have failed . If you go on the Barn of Parts website he has manual adjuster that’s very slick . I just unhooked the cable and left the dial adjust mounted in the side of the tunnel.

When installing the suspension back into the tunnel. Remove one end of Transfer rod ( the little shock you had the picture of . Then remove the bolt on the front limiter strap. This will allow the suspension arms to move and allow you to line up the holes in the tunnel. Once mounting bolts are back in the tunnel lift front of sled and track off the ground and place a floor jack under the track in front . Lift the front of track up until there is plenty of slack in the limiter strap to make it easy to replace the bolts . The transfer rod bolt should go back in easy.

Tip if you have some old slides cut them to the width of the track (3) PCs usually work . Lay these PCs in between the nubs of the track . Place suspension on slides and it should slide into place with out trying to lift them over the drive nubs . Pull them out after the bolts are back into the suspension.
 


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