fxnytro1050
Expert
just wondering about the removal of the intake and replacing it wil 3 seperate filters. Any providers besides K&N.
Also changing the intake may change the fuel to air ratio. would I need to get my injectors recalibrated or will the computer make the ratio the way it should be by itself.
Also changing the intake may change the fuel to air ratio. would I need to get my injectors recalibrated or will the computer make the ratio the way it should be by itself.
sheetwright
Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
Most go through someone like ulmer etc for these and usually once you start with intakes you may need to adjust fuel by using something like a power commander to adjust their settings. They are pretty much plug and play. Plus a good speed shop can tell you the settings etc for your particular aftermarket item's ( aka exhaust, header, air intake etc.)
fxnytro1050
Expert
ok thanks. I do have an ultra Q exhaust so if i did get an intake id definatly have to adjust the ratio. ill look into it anyways i guess
DelgatyXTX
Expert
fxnytro1050 said:ok thanks. I do have an ultra Q exhaust so if i did get an intake id definatly have to adjust the ratio. ill look into it anyways i guess
Yes, you need to get a programmer especially if you have aftermarket exhaust along with the intake. I just picked up an intake (used) on an impulse buy because it was such a good deal, so now I have to fork over the cost of the programmer as well. But it'll be worth it!
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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I spoke with Al Ulmer on this and unless you have a "header" on you can run K&N's with/without a aftermarket or stock muffler and you don't require a PC. If you have a full exhaust and intake mod then it is recommended to run a fuel controller.
fxnytro1050
Expert
cool. so with my aftermarket silencer and air intake i shouldnt need a programmer. sounds good to me
09NytroRTX
Expert
I've got a set just sitting around that I haven't installed yet. I got them at the end of last yr. and was curious as to how much hp if anything they add? I thought I had read around 5 hp? could be wrong tho.
fxnytro1050
Expert
yep thats the number i thought I read to. 5 at the peak and 3 all around. but im sure this is with the programmer installed. the intake may not do anything without the programmer.
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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3-5 hp without a programer. Read the add. There is a exhaust can out there that claims 10-15 hp, but that is with a PC. K&N's simple 3-5 hp bolt on no mods or extra's required. I do recommend running Premium on this though..
sheetwright
Northwoods Snowmobiling Facebook
If you feel confused email or call, ulmer. He is far from.a salesman, and will only sell you what you need, and answer all your questions. Which mid needs what to go with it, if anything. That is your safest bet imo
fxnytro1050
Expert
ok sounds good. thanks
fxnytro1050
Expert
i do run 91 octane anyways. always have and always will.
Bahr05
Expert
fxnytro1050 said:i do run 91 octane anyways. always have and always will.
On the sticker on the tunnel of the sled, it says 91 Octane. I try to buy ethanol free whenever possible as well.
all_4_stroke
Veteran
it also never hurts to install an air/fuel gauge if you can afford it. cheap insurance as far as im concerned.
canoehead said:3-5 hp without a programer. Read the add. There is a exhaust can out there that claims 10-15 hp, but that is with a PC. K&N's simple 3-5 hp bolt on no mods or extra's required. I do recommend running Premium on this though..
Lol...that's Barkers slip on..claims 12hp and has never backed it up...cause we all know it's impossible from a slip on. Just curious...why do you recommend 91 Octane with those bolt ons....I run fully modded and have never put anything other than 87 in my sled. From my discussion with Dave Marshall at Hurricane, unless you bump compression or are boosted there is no need to run premium.
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