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Almost done tearing it down and found a few treats!

MyOutdoors

VIP Member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
426
Location
Lempster, NH
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2020 Sidewinder Ltx Se
I'm just about finished my tear down to install all the fixes and noticed a few things.

1. There is a crack on the inner chaincase, it had to be there from factory? Under 300 miles on this 2020, no signs of a hard kit from underneath? I know my xf7000 had a crack on the outer cover but not on the inside mounted to frame. I'm thinking it's fine and could thru bolt it if it's an issue. Anybody else seen this?

2. Shift fork plastic pad already junk under 300 miles...had brass already ordered with new top gear.

3. The Radiator got trashed from the PO trailering uncovered in the salty roads. It's got the typical aluminum white powder "cancer". I washed the entire sled down and made a baking soda paste with tooth brush to gently scrub all sides, then rinsed it very well. Its still looking bad... any ideas/products on how to neutralize the corrosion?
 

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I'm just about finished my tear down to install all the fixes and noticed a few things.

1. There is a crack on the inner chaincase, it had to be there from factory? Under 300 miles on this 2020, no signs of a hard kit from underneath? I know my xf7000 had a crack on the outer cover but not on the inside mounted to frame. I'm thinking it's fine and could thru bolt it if it's an issue. Anybody else seen this?

2. Shift fork plastic pad already junk under 300 miles...had brass already ordered with new top gear.

3. The Radiator got trashed from the PO trailering uncovered in the salty roads. It's got the typical aluminum white powder "cancer". I washed the entire sled down and made a baking soda paste with tooth brush to gently scrub all sides, then rinsed it very well. Its still looking bad... any ideas/products on how to neutralize the corrosion?
These don't have radiators, it's the intercooler. Shame some don't care enough to keep them up. Try a spray like Rust Check.
 
Try some aluminum wheel cleaner on your aluminum parts.
Vinegar works also but will discolor some metal.
 
Boy I've never seen wear pads worn in all the chain cases I've had apart here, let alone worn like that at an angle, and I have had a few apart. It appears from the picture that the shift fork is bent, it could just be an illusion from the picture, but the pad worn at an angle seems like something is amiss.

The plastic pads will go kaput when the upper bushing gets really worn and wobbly on the shaft. Other than that I've never seen a failure of the plastic pads myself, but the sleds I work on all get a close eye on the gear bushings seasonally and replaced, or they get the Hurricane gear in place of the bushing equipped gears.

Is the bushing shot and wobbly? If not, you may have what appears a bent shift fork which the brass pads will not help. Seems like this sled has a few issues and perhaps many more miles of being abused perhaps? It's certainly poor looking and run hard from the pictures you've posted. Perhaps the corrosion makes it look worse I'm not sure. I thought you said it only has a few hundred miles, but I'd have to question that. I've seen sleds much better than this with many thousands of miles and no case cracks or worn items like has been posted here.
 
Boy I've never seen wear pads worn in all the chain cases I've had apart here, let alone worn like that at an angle, and I have had a few apart. It appears from the picture that the shift fork is bent, it could just be an illusion from the picture, but the pad worn at an angle seems like something is amiss.

The plastic pads will go kaput when the upper bushing gets really worn and wobbly on the shaft. Other than that I've never seen a failure of the plastic pads myself, but the sleds I work on all get a close eye on the gear bushings seasonally and replaced, or they get the Hurricane gear in place of the bushing equipped gears.

Is the bushing shot and wobbly? If not, you may have what appears a bent shift fork which the brass pads will not help. Seems like this sled has a few issues and perhaps many more miles of being abused perhaps? It's certainly poor looking and run hard from the pictures you've posted. Perhaps the corrosion makes it look worse I'm not sure. I thought you said it only has a few hundred miles, but I'd have to question that. I've seen sleds much better than this with many thousands of miles and no case cracks or worn items like has been posted here.
I'm going to check the forks more closely...OD says under 300 but who the hell knows. Track still has rubber nubs on it, shocks and skid have no wear marks...I honestly think the guy was a typical meathead who wanted the fastest sled made but had no clue about snowmobiles. Probably started it a thousand times just to hear it. Trailered it fromass to Maine uncovered and left it in a shed to condensate. First impression I got was a wanna be contractor, coke head ...who just slammed it in reverse and punched it.

I'm giving it a good spa treatment and will see how she treats me when the snow flys!
 
I checked out the shift fork, it's the angle I took the pic at. Also, the pad isn't worn at an angle. It was broken off...the pic does make it look like it wore thru. Now how it broke so soon? That's a mystery! At 1st I was thinking the same as you...did I get duped on the mileage? Could this clown have switched consoles or did something Shakey? But looking at all the other main parts of the sled, ie: track, running boards, shocks, side panels, etc... everything looks showroom brand new.
 
Could this clown have switched consoles or did something Shakey?
Yes, most do it to sell console/tune as a package. The trade off is they can sell their sled, and appears never to have been tuned.
I'm very doubtful that's the case here.
I'd be considering the crack in the chain case. Not sure if it can be repaired by a magnesium welding specialist?!?! Idk.... Order a new one or just leave it?!?!
 
Yes, most do it to sell console/tune as a package. The trade off is they can sell their sled, and appears never to have been tuned.
I'm very doubtful that's the case here.
I'd be considering the crack in the chain case. Not sure if it can be repaired by a magnesium welding specialist?!?! Idk.... Order a new one or just leave it?!?!
Definitely nothing switched. I'm going to keep an eye on the case but I'm thinking it's going to be fine. They're under $300 so it's not the end of the world for me. I just can't wait to start putting it all back together with the BOP parts and everything else I've grabbed to upgrade it.
 
That shift fork could have been destroyed at a high speed reverse shift after a few rounds at the local pub. All the mold and salt damage could happen to a brand new sled if stored in the wrong conditions. As far as the chaincase crack? I doubt this happened from the factory or we would have had this reported before on this site. Most likely the owner knew that something was wrong and over torqued the cover after taking it apart and had no clue what he was looking at. That said, they are all easy repairs and with a little elbow grease she should clean up nice.
 
If you are questioning the mileage, compare it to the hours and do a few calculations.
The mileage is stored in the gauge unit, the hours are stored in the ECU.
If the gauge is changed with a new unit, the mileage goes to zero but the hours on the machine stays the same.
Sooo, an example, if the mileage is 200 and the hours are also 200, then there something fishy going on.
 
That shift fork could have been destroyed at a high speed reverse shift after a few rounds at the local pub. All the mold and salt damage could happen to a brand new sled if stored in the wrong conditions. As far as the chaincase crack? I doubt this happened from the factory or we would have had this reported before on this site. Most likely the owner knew that something was wrong and over torqued the cover after taking it apart and had no clue what he was looking at. That said, they are all easy repairs and with a little elbow grease she should clean up nice.
It's not the outer case that's cracked. This is the "inner" case that is bolted from inside the tunnel supporting the drive axle.
 
If you are questioning the mileage, compare it to the hours and do a few calculations.
The mileage is stored in the gauge unit, the hours are stored in the ECU.
If the gauge is changed with a new unit, the mileage goes to zero but the hours on the machine stays the same.
Sooo, an example, if the mileage is 200 and the hours are also 200, then there something fishy going on.
Definitely nothing was switched...I believe it showed under 20 hrs
 
I had a broken shift pad on my 2012 but it was caused by the bushing being worn on the upper gear. The bushing should be ok with that low mileage.
 
I had a broken shift pad on my 2012 but it was caused by the bushing being worn on the upper gear. The bushing should be ok with that low mileage.
I had one go 70 miles out on a solo ride with my 14' xf 7000, but that has about 6k on it.
 


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