Another A arm thread

[lund]

Yes they should if you got the 3" foreward, like i said its an easy modification.
-Remove shock from machine.
-Remove old poly bushings, top ONLY.
-center drill and tap threads into shock mount for
setsrew that helps retain new bushings.
-install new bushings (spherical bearing) with green
bushing loc-tite into shock.
-install setsrew.
-install modified shock into machine.
The bottom retains the OEM poly bushings.
DONE.

Some guys choose to do both ends of the shock with spherical bearings, for improved durability, i just did one end and CR supplies only one end as a kit. You have to ask for the 2 extra bushing to do the bottoms.

 

[Mountaintech]

Well I wanted a set that I could use stock spec shocks. Skinz are nice but it seems that you need spherical shock bushings. I wanted a +3 set with adjustable camber, and I also liked the way they looked.

All aftermarket A arms have adjustable camber. Now, adjustable caster is another story.

 

[melmaq]

Lund do you have a Website to recomend that sells the appropriate type of bearing?

I have previously looked at these as concept build bearings, (Not hoping for more then 500-1000km then inspect and evaluate)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FK-Spherical-Be ... 0740479556

 

[lund]

Lund do you have a Website to recomend that sells the appropriate type of bearing?

I have previously looked at these as concept build bearings, (Not hoping for more then 500-1000km then inspect and evaluate)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FK-Spherical-Be ... 0740479556

Sorry no i don't, but they are not difficult to find, most any industrial bearing and seal supplier can match the spherical bearing needed. There are hundred of sizing available, so i recommend letting them match it.
I was on the SKF Canadian site and they make them of all sizes. So you could essentially custom design your own arm's with its own spherical bearing sizing.
They are far cheaper to buy from them then Fox or custom builder's and essentially that is where they get them.

 

[melmaq]

Alright, thanks man!

 

[BADSLED]

Well I wanted a set that I could use stock spec shocks. Skinz are nice but it seems that you need spherical shock bushings. I wanted a +3 set with adjustable camber, and I also liked the way they looked.

All aftermarket A arms have adjustable camber. Now, adjustable caster is another story.

Can you explain advantages of camber adjustment on front end of Nytro?

 

[Mountaintech]

Well I wanted a set that I could use stock spec shocks. Skinz are nice but it seems that you need spherical shock bushings. I wanted a +3 set with adjustable camber, and I also liked the way they looked.

All aftermarket A arms have adjustable camber. Now, adjustable caster is another story.

Can you explain advantages of camber adjustment on front end of Nytro?

It is important that camber, caster and toe are all independently adjustable. Just because everything bolts together does not mean that caster and camber are where they should be The biggest problem with the stock Nytro front geometry is that the stock spindle is too short. Because of this, camber will decrease all the way through zero degrees, and go positive when the suspension compresses.

 

[..SNAKEBIT..]

?[/quote]

It is important that camber, caster and toe are all independently adjustable. Just because everything bolts together does not mean that caster and camber are where they should be The biggest problem with the stock Nytro front geometry is that the stock spindle is too short. Because of this, camber will decrease all the way through zero degrees, and go positive when the suspension compresses.[/quote]

I think the camber increases goes positive when compressed, which I believe is a problem,
on race cars they install tall ball joints to help it
adding a spacer between upper A-arm and spindle helps decrease the camber change
I am experimenting with it now, any advice?

 

[Mountaintech]

?

It is important that camber, caster and toe are all independently adjustable. Just because everything bolts together does not mean that caster and camber are where they should be The biggest problem with the stock Nytro front geometry is that the stock spindle is too short. Because of this, camber will decrease all the way through zero degrees, and go positive when the suspension compresses.[/quote]

I think the camber increases goes positive when compressed, which I believe is a problem,
on race cars they install tall ball joints to help it
adding a spacer between upper A-arm and spindle helps decrease the camber change
I am experimenting with it now, any advice?[/quote]

You are correct. On the Nytro space the upper joint up about an inch. Then you want about 1-2 degrees of negative camber.

 

[thumperlover]

Just got my kit installed and had a quick ride. Crazy tippy! I haven't had a chance to try it in powder yet but im sure its gonna be a blast! Its gonna take some time to get used to not having a sway bar though.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Mountaintech's 38" a arms can come with stabilizer mounts as an option. I have a stabilizer bar on my sled and just unhook it when playing in powder. I feel the need to keep the sway bar on because I still ride hard on lakes, trails, bush, etc. So it would be Mountaintech kit for me.

 

[p0wd3rp1l0t]

i just got done installing the cr 36" a arm kit on my ntyro and man what a difference. not sure why these didnt come with a front end like this to begin with. you can actually carve without throwing everything into it, since i am a lighter rider. makes the sled a lot more fun to ride and a lot less fatiguing. if you have a stock front end on a mtx, its a must to change it out, whether its cr or zbros or skinz. get stock off of there....btw my front end is not trail friendly, but i like it that way