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Apex won't turn over, service light, engine light

apexmcneil

Extreme
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
50
Age
34
Location
Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2008 Yamaha Apex LTX
Upgrade GYTR Dual Rate shocks,
Ohlins Rear
Oillite bushing kit
Powercoated Rear skid
Snow Trackers
I have a 2008 Ltx apex. That I just did a bunch of work to, and had quite a bit if the sled torn down, I re-assembled everything, and fired the sled up, everything worked great. I put the sled back on the ground rolled it off to the side of the garage, and left it there for 2 weeks .. Went to fire up the sled today, and it won't turn over. The yellow service light is coming on, and the engine light. Only illuminates when I turn the key . I can still hear the fuel pump comin on, and after a couple key turns. The coolent light comes on, and stays on constant.

I have searched the net for about 2 hours now. Looking for some information, and can't really get a definite answer. I've read how to check codes, in which I've done, and someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but you hold the reset / select button, then turn ignition on, hold until di shows up. Then hold again until number shows up. Then check through 60 and 64 for codes. Well my sled has 00 under 60, but doesn't have a 64, only 60, 62, 70.

If someone can shed some light on this, I'd appreciate it! Kinda frustrating that it worked 2 weeks ago, and now doesn't.
 

I did front suspension work.. All new steering stems bushing, and links, a arm bushing. And new bogy wheels. Speedo bearing, which is plugged back in. Had to remove air box and battery to do the dront end work though. But Disnt unplug anything other than the air temp sensor in the side of the air box, but it's also plugged in. And clean connector.
 
Check around the starter relay, for a loose connection. The sled will start and run with the airbox speedo off.
 
I did a simple oil change one time on an 05 RX1, wenr to fire it up after and nothing. Of course I panicked and was trying to think what I did wrong. Ended up being a bad battery connection. Cleaned the terminals and tightened the bolts back down and it fired right up. I went from wanting to hit it with a hammer to smiling and listening to it run.
 
I suggest gjving it a boost.
If it starts with a boost, it would suggest a power drain that has drained the battery in the last 2 weeks
 
RxThunder said:
I did a simple oil change one time on an 05 RX1, wenr to fire it up after and nothing. Of course I panicked and was trying to think what I did wrong. Ended up being a bad battery connection. Cleaned the terminals and tightened the bolts back down and it fired right up. I went from wanting to hit it with a hammer to smiling and listening to it run.

hahah thats how i felt yesterday. i was going biking yesterday, and this happened before i left, and what a way to piss me off for the day while out on my atv. lol couldnt stop thinking about what the issue was..

im going to try and boost the sled today, see if that makes it start! hopefully that is the case!!


thanks!!
 
i hooked a booster to it, and it didnt do anything different. so i hooked a battery tender up, and left it for the afternoon, went down after the battery tender showed charged, and sled turned over!!

thanks!


admin can lock and delete thread!
 
If your battery can't start the sled after sitting for two weeks you either have a parasitic drain in the electrical system or a battery that needs to be replaced.

If you do determine that you need to replace your battery you may want to upgrade. Last year I put in the Interstate brand YTX20H-BS which fits perfectly with the original foam spacers removed. This battery has 310 CCA compared to the original battery which has 200 CCA. It is a few more pounds but the extra CCA is worth it IMO.

Yuasa makes this same AGM battery and you can get it on Amazon.com for under $90. Just make sure that you don't order the YTX20HL-BS as the L designates left hand positive polarity which is reversed from what you want.
 
Blue Dave said:
If your battery can't start the sled after sitting for two weeks you either have a parasitic drain in the electrical system or a battery that needs to be replaced.

If you do determine that you need to replace your battery you may want to upgrade. Last year I put in the Interstate brand YTX20H-BS which fits perfectly with the original foam spacers removed. This battery has 310 CCA compared to the original battery which has 200 CCA. It is a few more pounds but the extra CCA is worth it IMO.

Yuasa makes this same AGM battery and you can get it on Amazon.com for under $90. Just make sure that you don't order the YTX20HL-BS as the L designates left hand positive polarity which is reversed from what you want.

Will do!! Thanks!!


Do you think that possibly my helmet sheild could be the draw killing my battery? I have my heated sheild wiring going directly to 12v, fused. Just curious if you think that make create the draw and kill the battery??
 
apexmcneil said:
Blue Dave said:
If your battery can't start the sled after sitting for two weeks you either have a parasitic drain in the electrical system or a battery that needs to be replaced.

If you do determine that you need to replace your battery you may want to upgrade. Last year I put in the Interstate brand YTX20H-BS which fits perfectly with the original foam spacers removed. This battery has 310 CCA compared to the original battery which has 200 CCA. It is a few more pounds but the extra CCA is worth it IMO.

Yuasa makes this same AGM battery and you can get it on Amazon.com for under $90. Just make sure that you don't order the YTX20HL-BS as the L designates left hand positive polarity which is reversed from what you want.

Will do!! Thanks!!


Do you think that possibly my helmet sheild could be the draw killing my battery? I have my heated sheild wiring going directly to 12v, fused. Just curious if you think that make create the draw and kill the battery??

No issues with mine wired the same way, but check along it's length to make sure it hasn't rubbed through somewhere?
 
apexmcneil said:
Blue Dave said:
If your battery can't start the sled after sitting for two weeks you either have a parasitic drain in the electrical system or a battery that needs to be replaced.

If you do determine that you need to replace your battery you may want to upgrade. Last year I put in the Interstate brand YTX20H-BS which fits perfectly with the original foam spacers removed. This battery has 310 CCA compared to the original battery which has 200 CCA. It is a few more pounds but the extra CCA is worth it IMO.

Yuasa makes this same AGM battery and you can get it on Amazon.com for under $90. Just make sure that you don't order the YTX20HL-BS as the L designates left hand positive polarity which is reversed from what you want.

Will do!! Thanks!!


Do you think that possibly my helmet sheild could be the draw killing my battery? I have my heated sheild wiring going directly to 12v, fused. Just curious if you think that make create the draw and kill the battery??

Only if you leave your helmet shield connected all the time LOL! Seriously even if your heated shield cable had a LED on the end of it like some do that should not be enough to kill a good battery in two weeks. Your battery is 5 years old which is a pretty good run for a seasonal RV battery. You can have your battery tested at any good battery store. It may be time for a new one. If so, I would upgrade as I mentioned earlier.
 
I just wired it in, when re-assembling the sled. So i doubt it has rubbed through. but i will check. Ill grab my voltmeter, and check resistance and see if there is any draw coming from the wire.
 


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