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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

Just checked my driveshaft bearing and it’s been spinning WTF. I also just pulled my shocks and sent them to cannondale27. So my sled is all apart and can’t get it to dealer in time for warranty and ride, that’s what I get for waiting till the last minute. I ordered a new complete shaft, bearing and wedge. I plan on swapping back to the old spun shaft and bearing in the spring and bring it in for warranty then I’ll have an extra or sell it. My rotor has spun against the bearing but still has space before it gets to splines and came off easy. Why are people replacing the rotor, what does it do? I don’t remember any noise or vibration.
 

The rotor get ground down from the bearing inner race spinning against the rotor and snapring gets worn also.
 
I saw that, the rotor is ground down a little, the clip looks fine but why replace the rotor if it gets a little ground down? What does it effect?
 
I saw that, the rotor is ground down a little, the clip looks fine but why replace the rotor if it gets a little ground down? What does it effect?
Doesn't make any difference. Brake pads keep rotor centered between sides of the calipers. On some sleds I've worked on, brake pads keep rotor from touching either the outer snap ring or the bearing.
 
You can probably grab the flats with a vicegrip even if inserted flush. Can also knock the threaded wedge out inside shaft if need be and you can get a slide hammer hook inside hole to hook the finger piece.

Worst case as canondale said, the shaft is hollow all the way through. Unseat the wedge and retrieve it with magnet from chaincase side. Then use long punch to drive the finger piece out.
Could a longer bolt (4-6 inch) temporarily be installed to break loose the wedge pressure and used to wiggle and pull it out?
 
Dealer is replacing my driveshaft and bearing under my YES warranty and told me to purchase the driveshaft saver so he could put it in. Travis is shipping it direct to the dealer.

Sled has 2600 miles on it.
 
View attachment 151203 View attachment 151204 View attachment 151205

Dealer decided to check my Driveshaft for wear. Good thing they did as seen from photo's. Almost worn through the hollow shaft. Ruined brake rotor from movement. End of drive shaft was rubbing also.

They had ordered a couple of the driveshaft savers. I bought one from them and I am going to install.

Now that is wear! Holy crap, very easy to see why damage to much more can occur if this is not caught in time.
 
Now that is wear! Holy crap, very easy to see why damage to much more can occur if this is not caught in time.

I picked up a Drive Saver as well. My dealer had ordered in a couple.

I wonder if there is a connection between this bearing problem and the upper gear bushing problem?

I have had gear changed three times under warranty.
 
FYI
When installing the wedge, sand out rust and imperfections inside the shaft hole. Lubricate the wedge and hole well with grease or anti-seize. I didn’t Loctite the bolt for fear of the wedge spinning when trying to remove it, just lube the threads. It’s a fine thread so it shouldn’t loosen if torqued over 30ft/lbs. torqued mine to 55 ft/lbs.
 
I ordered the wedge from Travis and planning to install it in my new ltx gt..

When installing the wedge while the shaft is still in the sled how do you know how much to torque the wedge ?

Thanks in advance..
 
I ordered the wedge from Travis and planning to install it in my new ltx gt..

When installing the wedge while the shaft is still in the sled how do you know how much to torque the wedge ?

Thanks in advance..

First you have to know what kind of shape your driveshaft is in. How many miles. Did the bearing already spin your shaft down?
Best to loosen up track and push up on driveshaft next to bearing from underneath the sled and check for play.

Oops I didn't see the new part.
I put mine in at 40 ft lbs new and its tight on shaft.
 
Great thanks, I was wondering how guys are torquing down the wedge with the shaft still in the sled..
 


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