Clutch servicing

[stevewithOCD]

So let's back up just a tad. Make sure we're on same page.
You've shown that before you bolt up the clutch the sheaves are together & the belt is above top of sheaves. Correct?
Then you bolt it on & sheaves separate causing belt to drop down. Still correct?
You were able to rotate the "collar" on the threaded "cylinder". Still correct?
The Adjuster must be pushing on Helix which is how it works.
If you put small washers between "cylinder" & shaft, it should push the "collar" further away making it not hit Helix.

To put it simply, we need the Adjuster Collar to NOT touch the Helix until we tighten it to then push the Helix in causing the rear sheave to move away from other sheave lowering belt.
You probably don't even need to adjust it unless the belt squeals at idle. If it doesn't, leave it.

 

[jpilk99]

So let's back up just a tad. Make sure we're on same page.
You've shown that before you bolt up the clutch the sheaves are together & the belt is above top of sheaves. Correct?
Then you bolt it on & sheaves separate causing belt to drop down. Still correct?
You were able to rotate the "collar" on the threaded "cylinder". Still correct?
The Adjuster must be pushing on Helix which is how it works.
If you put small washers between "cylinder" & shaft, it should push the "collar" further away making it not hit Helix.

To put it simply, we need the Adjuster Collar to NOT touch the Helix until we tighten it to then push the Helix in causing the rear sheave to move away from other sheave lowering belt.
You probably don't even need to adjust it unless the belt squeals at idle. If it doesn't, leave it.

I'll try and answer, but, I got a little confused with your terms as I was using similar. But I think I understand what you're saying:

1.) You've shown that before you bolt up the clutch the sheaves are together & the belt is above top of sheaves. Correct? - While on the bench, Yes, that's correct.

2). Then you bolt it on & sheaves separate causing belt to drop down. Still correct? Yes, after bolting up, the sheaves separate a little and the belt drops down a little.

3). You were able to rotate the "collar" on the threaded "cylinder". Still correct? Do you mean what I've been calling the "black, knurled knob"? The adjuster with the outer ring that has the allen bolt which tightens/loosens against it's inner "cylinder" as you call it?? Yessir .

I believe I firmly understand (now) how the adjuster collar works, thanks to everyone here.

I have few videos I'm about to upload that show how I install the clutch back on the sled, doing (I believe) exactly what you said, and the results. Stay tuned. Thank you.

Jay

 

[jpilk99]

Video 1: Here's me loading the Secondary onto the shaft, with the sleeve/cylinder that goes inside, then the thicker/ring-sized spacer, then a much larger/ultra-thin washer, then the adjuster collar, then the bolt. (Exciting stuff here!!!) - and even though it may not look it, I made sure the black adjuster knob/collar is loose and not touching helix:

 

[jpilk99]

Video 2: After getting clutch on, adjusting collar waaaay out of the way away from helix, and tightening bolt to 43lbs, I lifted the rear and after running it for a little, having belts grabbing and "settling in", after stopping you can see the sheaves stay apart and the belt sits down.

Could this be because belt is out of round, from sitting in the spare-belt-holder for a long time, and it is keep sheaves apart?:

 

[jpilk99]

Video 3: And here's the final video in this exciting series that shows the clutch moving about 1/4" on it's shaft(?). As well, I believe I've confirmed that any lopsided'ness to the belt is not causing the sheaves to stay separated. I am running my hand around the area where the belt sits and it's pretty much the same depth around the clutch. Thanks so much for the help.

Not sure what's next. Another shim, fat washer, in with the other one?

 

[jpilk99]

And last but not least, went back out and removed the one ring-sized spacer between adjuster and shaft. No noticeable difference. Tried adding an additional spacer to the ring-sized one (put it back in - that's how I got it) and ...it was comically out too far, see pic.

I am befuddled.

 

[maim]

Sorry, not sure what you mean

sry i was just bringing this thread to my brothers attention as we have a few primarys that are sticking as described.

 

[jpilk99]

sry i was just bringing this thread to my brothers attention as we have a few primarys that are sticking as described.

The more the merrier

 

[jpilk99]

sry i was just bringing this thread to my brothers attention as we have a few primarys that are sticking as described.

I wonder if mine could be "setup" this way, the Primary, to require a ton of RPMs (usually about 4500) to get the sheave to snap-in and grab the belt. Seems like a hole-shot automotive clutch.

 

[72Gran]

It seems all that the spacers are doing is increasing the clutch float. The factory clutch had some float, back and forth movement on the shaft.

It might be wise before making any more adjustments to get that belt to take its shape or maybe buy a new belt. It could be that’s what’s causing it to not want to rise to the top of the sheave.

Yes I agree your primary is set up for high rpm engagement, not the best set up for a trail sled. You can change the spring to reduce engagement rpm.

Just to confirm, when you tighten the clutch bolt with the knob backed off and no belt, the sheaves remain together or do they move apart slightly.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Ok, i just looked at a stock piece to get my head on this.
On your Adjuster, the "Threaded Cylinder" needs to be able to fit into Helix hole or it will push it in.
It may not fit and therefore it may not work. The right size washers should fix this.

If you look at a stock piece, the aluminum plug sticks out. Sooo far that a couple washers are used to get the movement down to 1mm.
I pulled it out to exaggerate the situation.
NOTHING can touch the Helix or in this case that internal Bearing/Collar in the Helix.
Then it will come ALL the way out allowing sheaves to be closer together.
Something is pushing on it and it only takes a mm or 2 to push rear sheave back sinking belt lower.

You're over thinking it. Maybe have a young kid look at it. LOL
"Truly Wonderful, the Mind of a Child is. UnCluttered." (movie quote)

P.S: Name the most Famous Philosopher that said that quote...

 

[jpilk99]

It seems all that the spacers are doing is increasing the clutch float. The factory clutch had some float, back and forth movement on the shaft.

It might be wise before making any more adjustments to get that belt to take its shape or maybe buy a new belt. It could be that’s what’s causing it to not want to rise to the top of the sheave.

Yes I agree your primary is set up for high rpm engagement, not the best set up for a trail sled. You can change the spring to reduce engagement rpm.

Just to confirm, when you tighten the clutch bolt with the knob backed off and no belt, the sheaves remain together or do they move apart slightly.

I will get a new belt, if for nothing else than to eliminate that from consideration to the "problem".

And 'yes', when I tighten the clutch bolt with the know backed off and no belt, the sheaves remain together; snug as a bug in a rug.

 

[stevewithOCD]

I'm packing to go away this week so i can't come up cuz it looks like you need a hug.
If this isn't fixed when i come home, i'm heading up there.
I'll bring stock parts in case this aftermarket gadget doesn't work.
I have stock primary stuff also to get you up and running.
I now have 5 extra belts also. 3 brand new & 2 slightly used.

I'll work for a hug & maybe some leftovers. Preferably from your wife. Not sure i trust your cooking right now.

P.S: I hope this NEWBIE gets my humor....

 

[74Nitro]

Ok, i just looked at a stock piece to get my head on this.
On your Adjuster, the "Threaded Cylinder" needs to be able to fit into Helix hole or it will push it in.
It may not fit and therefore it may not work. The right size washers should fix this.

If you look at a stock piece, the aluminum plug sticks out. Sooo far that a couple washers are used to get the movement down to 1mm.
I pulled it out to exaggerate the situation.
NOTHING can touch the Helix or in this case that internal Bearing/Collar in the Helix.
Then it will come ALL the way out allowing sheaves to be closer together.
Something is pushing on it and it only takes a mm or 2 to push rear sheave back sinking belt lower.

You're over thinking it. Maybe have a young kid look at it. LOL
"Truly Wonderful, the Mind of a Child is. UnCluttered." (movie quote)






View attachment 164919

P.S: Name the most Famous Philosopher that said that quote...

I agree with the OCD character.

 

[jpilk99]

I'm packing to go away this week so i can't come up cuz it looks like you need a hug.
If this isn't fixed when i come home, i'm heading up there.
I'll bring stock parts in case this aftermarket gadget doesn't work.
I have stock primary stuff also to get you up and running.
I now have 5 extra belts also. 3 brand new & 2 slightly used.

I'll work for a hug & maybe some leftovers. Preferably from your wife. Not sure i trust your cooking right now.

P.S: I hope this NEWBIE gets my humor....

Thank you kindly. Have a great vacation. I'll tell wifey to get the hugs ready.