Rich Kay
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I asked these same questions on the cobra track as I was looking to replace my ripsaw. I was able to ride a apex with a cobra and one with the Intense .... I went with the Intense . Too many reports of less than stellar durability on the Cobra and that was the only difference IMHO.
tube
Veteran
Too bad you chose the intense , your probably going to loose a couple miles per hour on the top since its 2 lbs heavier
Rich Kay
TY 4 Stroke Guru
As a matter of fact I gained top end.....(as I spend about 2 seconds there) plus I get there a lot quicker too. Heaven forbid if I dropped a couple of MPH I would have to sell it! Thats funny!
ripsaw 2 is the best all around choice IMHO if you want more than the rip but dont want to loose on top...
vx700xtc
Expert
I personally, love the Cobra. Its possible those seeing lost top end are from a more cupped lug pumping more air/snow forward than the Ripsaw. I put 8000 miles on a cobra, and I like to dig trenches,so, I didnt notice a durability issue.
journeyman
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I have heard that the Cobra does lose top end.
From my own personal experience this is what I found:
Before my 136 Attak I owned a 2002 Viper 2 stroke with a 121" track. Within the first year I got rid of the original Yokohama track for the Camoplast Predator 1.25" w/3rd window closed. Awesome track, but by about 5-6000 miles quite a few of the lugs were getting torn. I decided to replace it. I threw on a 121" Cobra at that time. I can honesty say I lost top end, anywhere from 5-10 mph in various conditions. I never achieved the top speeds I did with the Predator though it hooked up really well and was a bit better off trail.
In the meantime my buddy had gone through a few different Apex 136 models. On all of them he installed a 136 Cobra. I didn't see the drastic speed loss on this machine like I did on my 2 stroke. I figured maybe the broad torque band might be the reason why. Then I bought my used 2007 Attak which was bone stock. At the time his 2008 136 Apex had been clutched and had a Cobra track. His could absolutely run away from me from start to finish. The next season I chose to set mine up like his. I installed the same clutching setup as his and was going to buy a Cobra from PortYamaha. They had a good price on them on ebay. I sat a bit too long on them and they cleared them all out around Haydays time so I was too late. I called them up and they said they were no longer going to sell the 136 Cobra. They claimed they had some issues with them breaking the lug re-inforcements. They said the Rip Saw II was an over all better track so I bought that.
After I had it all installed we squared off a couple times running maybe up to a quarter mile. Dead even.....We had never did a full out top end run farther than that and he has since sold it to one of my relatives. IMHO I think the Cobra is a fine track on this sled. I feel the lug issues might have been from low snow conditions. I can say I love the Ripsaw II though, it is so much better than the regular Ripsaw in every way.
From my own personal experience this is what I found:
Before my 136 Attak I owned a 2002 Viper 2 stroke with a 121" track. Within the first year I got rid of the original Yokohama track for the Camoplast Predator 1.25" w/3rd window closed. Awesome track, but by about 5-6000 miles quite a few of the lugs were getting torn. I decided to replace it. I threw on a 121" Cobra at that time. I can honesty say I lost top end, anywhere from 5-10 mph in various conditions. I never achieved the top speeds I did with the Predator though it hooked up really well and was a bit better off trail.
In the meantime my buddy had gone through a few different Apex 136 models. On all of them he installed a 136 Cobra. I didn't see the drastic speed loss on this machine like I did on my 2 stroke. I figured maybe the broad torque band might be the reason why. Then I bought my used 2007 Attak which was bone stock. At the time his 2008 136 Apex had been clutched and had a Cobra track. His could absolutely run away from me from start to finish. The next season I chose to set mine up like his. I installed the same clutching setup as his and was going to buy a Cobra from PortYamaha. They had a good price on them on ebay. I sat a bit too long on them and they cleared them all out around Haydays time so I was too late. I called them up and they said they were no longer going to sell the 136 Cobra. They claimed they had some issues with them breaking the lug re-inforcements. They said the Rip Saw II was an over all better track so I bought that.
After I had it all installed we squared off a couple times running maybe up to a quarter mile. Dead even.....We had never did a full out top end run farther than that and he has since sold it to one of my relatives. IMHO I think the Cobra is a fine track on this sled. I feel the lug issues might have been from low snow conditions. I can say I love the Ripsaw II though, it is so much better than the regular Ripsaw in every way.
I just installed a Rip II (1.5 lug) on a brand-new sled because I wasn't happy with the off trail performance of the slipsaw I (1.25 lug). I've yet to ride the Rip II, but I know I'm not going back to the Rip I. Anybody looking for a new (barely used ... less than 40 miles on it) Rip I? $250 plus shipping and it's yours. Track is 15 x 137 x 1.25, 2.86 pitch.
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True, but I doubt whether anyone here would really be interested in it. It's a take off from a doo, and the track, although made by Camso, was made to doo's specs. Not sure why, but this track doesn't have the innermost drive lugs. What I mean is, there are drive lugs on either side of the skid rails (one row on the outside and one on the inside of each rail), but there are no other drive lugs as you would normally find on most tracks. Maybe this was done to make the track quieter (as part of doo's "quiet-drive" system), maybe it was done to save weight, or maybe it was done to reduce manufacturing costs. I've read that one reason manufacturers have gone to 2.86, and 3.0 pitch tracks is to make tracks lighter (because consumers want lighter sleds), but eliminating the inner drive lugs can't be much of a weight savings IMO. Anyway, if the dimensions and pitch are right for someone's application, this track will still work with another brand of sled, and like I said ... it's essentially brand new. It's a very good track for trail riding, but a track that trenches in deeper snow, which is why I went to the new Rip II in a 1.5 lug.Might have better luck selling your track in the Classified section.
Good info about the track but a weee bit 
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