• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Collision Repair on my viper

EnticerRider

Extreme
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Messages
76
Location
Mid MI
Hi guys ,
Unfortunately I had a close call last week on the first day of my trip with my Viper. I am fine thank God. But my viper took a hit to the left control arm. Control Arm looks straight. Rode the sled after adjusting tie rod for my new handling mod. LOL. I am thinking the sub frame is tweaked. I will be either fixing myself or maybe claiming this with insurance. Sub frame from Port yamaha is $259.00 . Right lower Control arm is $121.00 Highly doubt I am lucky enough to get away with just replacing lower control arm. Has anyone had a incident with their Viper? Has anyone replaced the sub structure and have some first hand experience. If I decide to tackle this on my own, I will document the process. I hate to claim this on my insurance and get banged for a higher premium for a weekends worth of work. Will post pics later.
 

Hi guys ,
Unfortunately I had a close call last week on the first day of my trip with my Viper. I am fine thank God. But my viper took a hit to the left control arm. Control Arm looks straight. Rode the sled after adjusting tie rod for my new handling mod. LOL. I am thinking the sub frame is tweaked. I will be either fixing myself or maybe claiming this with insurance. Sub frame from Port yamaha is $259.00 . Right lower Control arm is $121.00 Highly doubt I am lucky enough to get away with just replacing lower control arm. Has anyone had a incident with their Viper? Has anyone replaced the sub structure and have some first hand experience. If I decide to tackle this on my own, I will document the process. I hate to claim this on my insurance and get banged for a higher premium for a weekends worth of work. Will post pics later.
 
Why pay for collision if you're afraid to use it. I turned in two claims around $3k each in two years with no rate increase. Although, with only a small amount of damage you might not be over your deductible.

The lower frame is $167 and a complete lower a-arm is $101 at Yamaha sports plaza. I replaced a bent lower a-arm last year in about 20-30 mins and the frame doesn't look to hard to swap out.
 
Cannondale had a bent lower control arm that did more damage to his subframe he did all the repair. Maybe he will comment
 
I did. Is write up somewhere here. Job went well. Don't skimp on parts. If it's even slightly bent replace. I hit something on a railroad grade completely severing the lower right arm off. Bent subframe good to. If I did it again I could do replacement in 5 hrs easy. Highly recommend a air rivet gun and just get every rivet and bolt holding front on. Also the stock skid plate from exchanger all the way forward. I may have never downloaded pics of it all apart but will try to in a few hrs. It's not a big deal. Looks way worse than it is. When done my alignment was even perfect. Good as new.
 
My father caught the right side ski bolt on a bridge last season, bent the lower a arm pretty badly, riding maybe 10km/h. Put a new a arm in it but it wouldn't handle right hand turns well. We measured side to side, right side spindle was 1.5" back!! We're both mechanics, ended up replacing the lower "sub frame" section at home in the garage. In all honesty, it wasn't the hardest job in the world, took us three nights after work from start to finish. Had to remove both upper and lower a arms, steering linkage, front radiator. Drill 30 or so rivets, have the remove the stamped steel portion of frame off the front. Basically you will have the front end stripped down to the engine for removal.
 
If this picture works, that is looking from the bottom. The left side is actually the right side of the sled. New part is on top, old one on the bottom. You can see it is bent near the rear mounting tabs.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    30.7 KB · Views: 250
I didnt have to totally remove radiator so no coolant drained but yes its pretty much that order. Airbox,Get Rad loose,Remove arms and shocks,Remove Bulkhead,Remove steering stem then remove lower frame. The part that costed me most time was not replacing the factory skid from exchanger forward. Guaranteed its not straight if frame is bent. If not perfectly straight all the rivets wont line up on bottom. Only costs $11 and I dicked with that for over a hr trying to get it straight, New one all rivets lined up perfectly.
 
Thank guys for the help.
I see there is an updated part for the sub frame and air box. I ordered them we will see what changes were made.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mine was updated subframe. Few extra holes not used were there. Also dont forget the two Rivnuts on bottom of subframe. They are needed if you have a skidplate and cannot be installed once the alum skid is riveted to the subframe. That was another half hr oops I did!
 


Back
Top