Install chain case oil seal

[Seavey82]

For the new bearing put it in the freezer to get it cold, you may want to heat up the chaincase bearing holder for install but be very careful you don't want to ruin the rubber part of the new seal. Place the cold bearing squarly by had in the bearing slot make sure its starts square and even. Take a rubber hammer and knock the bearing in until its up against the bearing retainer flange and you can see the circlip ring. Do not tap on the inner race. There did my good deed for the night im outty...

 

[Cardinal43]

Seriously you guys are the best. Thank you.

I was able to install the oil seal in the chain case last night (yamaha # 93102-30012). Since I was already in the back door (clutch side) I used a washer and a blind hole bearing puller, with a Lucas red and tacky grease, to pull the oil seal towards the chain case.

I noticed that there is a lip that was catching if I tried to push the seal in from the chain case side (pushing the seal towards the clutch). I think that if you go through the sled from the clutch side and pull the seal through, towards the chain case, you don’t catch that lip which is how I ripped the first seal. You can see what I mean in the pic below.

 

[Cardinal43]

Here’s what the blind hole puller setup looked like with the washer on the back side of the seal:

 

[Cardinal43]

Had to use a reach extender with magnet to get the washer and seal through the sled

 

[Cardinal43]

Used the blind hole puller to gently pull it through

 

[mp5]

Great job on perservering , buddy. Glad you got er....

Just curious...why did u replace that bearing and seal? Was the bearing rough/shot?

 

[Seavey82]

MP5 I'll chime in; I had to change mine this year as water was coming in through the top bearing I noticed my chain case oil was milky last year and when I changed the oil. Recently I pulled the case apart for a ice cobra track install and there was a rust stain running down from that bearing funny thing is the back seal appeared to be fine. When I first got the sled used years ago I pulled the case off to change the drive shaft bearing and noticed same thing with the top bearing and I know the case had never been broken open before. This time I added an extra o-ring to that side of the case like you do on the front (brake side). I put the o-ring against the inner race with the spacer up against it; will it stay I doubt it but its worth a shot I guess. I also used more grease and packed the seal. I think the shaft spinning wears out the inner part of the seal pretty quickly and it is kind of a weird spot for water to get in but it apparently gets in somehow.

 

[mp5]

Seavey82...interesting. I take my CC apart every yr (next few wks here), and check all. Have yet to see on mine what you describe, but will certainly look twice this time. Makes sence tho...stuff does wear out. Been two yrs since my last drive shaft bearing change...am going to do that this fall too. I bet it's showing some sludge in it already.

 

[Sevey]

As for the moisture comment. I always found that chain case had moisture issues. It would condensate on the inside.

There is a steel bushing on the upper shaft before it goes out to the rotar and it would rust . Using better oil and Lucas oil stabilizer seemed to stop that.

One benefit of the sr chassis is the amount of heat beside the chaincase- bakes the moisture out.
Ms

 

[mp5]

As for the moisture comment. I always found that chain case had moisture issues. It would condensate on the inside.

There is a steel bushing on the upper shaft before it goes out to the rotar and it would rust . Using better oil and Lucas oil stabilizer seemed to stop that.

One benefit of the sr chassis is the amount of heat beside the chaincase- bakes the moisture out.
Ms

And how are you liking your SW compared to your Nytro??

 

[Sevey]

I joke and say when you on snow the sidewinder is great, but in the shop doing mainentance I loved and miss my nytro.

It was designed really well and was simple maintain to get big km from it

The sw just handles better- and so it should- it’s a newer generation chassis. Little bumps and ruts on the trail that would throw the nytro around or cause a ski to flip up around a corner , just doesn’t happen in the sw. it handles very flat in corners and makes you feel like you are a better rider than you are. The acceleration out of corners is gobsmacking. I have noticed as a rider I am looking much further down the trail now, since the little stuff doesn’t throw your line off. But the sw is the Tiger tank of snowmobiles. For small tight trails I would say is not it’s specialty. Big trail -up north running is it’s specialty.

Nothing wrong with the nytro though, played around with mine and got the handling down and had some big days. Did lots of 500’s and a few 600km days on it. Felt great afterwards. Super comfy chassis.
Ms

 

[Cardinal43]

Great job on perservering , buddy. Glad you got er....

Just curious...why did u replace that bearing and seal? Was the bearing rough/shot?

Just bought this Nytro with 3,400 miles on it. We are olannjng to put some major miles on this year so I was just trying to be proactive with new bearings for shafts and cc. Since I was in there, figured I might as well do the seals as well.

After tearing it all open - i found no issues and probably could have waited longer. Oh well, peace of mind now since the sled was new to me and hopefully at least another 5,000 miles before new bearings / seals are needed again!