Jack Shaft Lock Nut Loose?

[Algonquin Rider]

So I noticed my jack shaft lock nut has some exposed threads. It looks like its not tight but it is. I can move it slightly by hitting it with a screwdriver and hammer so its not seized. There was no issues with noise or vibration and no movement in the shaft side to side

. Noticed it checking my donuts. Is it suppose to be tighter than this? 2006 Apex.

 

[RobX-1]

Yes, that nut should be tight and have threads showing behind it; not in front of it. Basically, that nut is threaded onto a tapered insert that as you tighten the nut, it pulls the tapered sleeve inwards into the ID of the bearing race so as to lock the bearing on the jack shaft.

 

[Algonquin Rider]

Here are a couple pictures from the other side. The split collar is pulled back in the inner race about 1/8". I have had this sled for 10 years and never touched this aside from tr-packingthe bearing grease. Should I try to loosen the nut and reset the split collar then tighten or leave it? The amount of threads showing on the other side is 3 times the 1/8" amount that this is.

 

[Stubbs]

Looks to me like someone has put one of those “All Balls” jackshaft bearing service kits in your sled and didn’t set that bearing lock set up properly. They use KML bearings like what’s in your pic.

 

[Algonquin Rider]

Looks to me like someone has put one of those “All Balls” jackshaft bearing service kits in your sled and didn’t set that bearing lock set up properly. They use KML bearings like what’s in your pic.

So is it All Balls or KML?

 

[Stubbs]

“All Balls” don’t make bearings, they just package a bunch of parts together as a kit to do the job. KML happens to be their bearing manufacturer of choice.
If it was me? I’d pull that cheap cheesy bearing out of there and replace it with an OE bearing from Yamaha. You need to split the chain case and remove the jackshaft to replace that bearing. If you’re going to that trouble you may as well use the best bearing you can get……just my opinion.

 

[maim]

my only issue with the kml bearings is the grease. once re packed with good grease, they seem to last as well as the oe. replace the oe one at 11000 miles on the 11. at 22000 mi atm and i am checking it as part of my pre season like every year.

 

[Stubbs]

Grease? What grease? Lol
I couldn’t believe how little was in the brand new one I popped the seal off of.
I don’t mind cheap bearings in skid wheels, but at the very least I want an NTN in the various driveline positions. I’m a bit of a stickler that way.

 

[Algonquin Rider]

Looks to me like someone has put one of those “All Balls” jackshaft bearing service kits in your sled and didn’t set that bearing lock set up properly. They use KML bearings like what’s in your pic.

So is it All Balls or KML?

my only issue with the kml bearings is the grease. once re packed with good grease, they seem to last as well as the oe. replace the oe one at 11000 miles on the 11. at 22000 mi atm and i am checking it as part of my pre season like every year.

I re-pack the bearing every yesr.

 

[maim]

So is it All Balls or KML?

I re-pack the bearing every yesr.

the all balls kits use the kml bearings in them. bearings are fine once they have good grease in them.

 

[74Nitro]

Does that bearing have a taper inside.
The 14 and 15 Vipers have a taper bearing also and Yamaha is the only one that offers the bearing.

 

[74Nitro]

Grease? What grease? Lol
I couldn’t believe how little was in the brand new one I popped the seal off of.
I don’t mind cheap bearings in skid wheels, but at the very least I want an NTN in the various driveline positions. I’m a bit of a stickler that way.

I agree, in the driveline , don't skimp on quality.
Koyo, NTN

 

[74Nitro]

That bearing appears to be incorrect, or needs to be flipped over.

 

[Stubbs]

They’re definitely tapered inside the inner race. It’s either oriented the wrong way or a slightly different taper spec than the OE equivalent.