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Mobil 1 0-40W Synthetic Oil

It could, and maybe on some uber-miniscule level help with engine longevity, but the only thing I can say is this.
Set two sleds outside overnight. See which one starts easier in the morning (even though the "0" is supposed to be the cold weight), and which one runs faster once they're both warm. I've noticed my sled starts with less trouble on cold mornings, and seems to run harder with the 0/30, but I've only got around 3500 miles on my sled. I do think that once that gets to around 7k, I'll start running the 40... maybe..
 

nate007 said:
It could, and maybe on some uber-miniscule level help with engine longevity, but the only thing I can say is this.
Set two sleds outside overnight. See which one starts easier in the morning (even though the "0" is supposed to be the cold weight), and which one runs faster once they're both warm. I've noticed my sled starts with less trouble on cold mornings, and seems to run harder with the 0/30, but I've only got around 3500 miles on my sled. I do think that once that gets to around 7k, I'll start running the 40... maybe..

Interesting, but no doubt it is slightly thicker oil even when it is cold out.
 
My bad, I meant 0w30 is recommended (at least for Phazers).

Going to a slightly thicker oil may take away a bit on the top end but it's so slight, you probably wouldn't notice the difference. You do get slightly better protection from the higher viscosity with slightly higher oil pressure.
 
I wish I could say that I am an oil guru for this discussion, but for the performance car stuff I do everyday, there's probably just as many throeies, opinions and reccomendations as there are brands. I will say that i don't know if I'd say a thicker oil will definitely give you better protection, since protection quality is more dependent on oil quality rather than weight. The viscosity of the oil has more to do with the bearing and machining tolerances and operating conditions. Running too thin of an oil will increase overal volume of oil circulated at the expense of pressure. Too thick of an oil will increase pressure, reduce volume which could lead to higher operating temps (oil is all that cools the moving parts) and could accelerate wear if contaminants and particles cannot be circulated to the filter as well. For this topic however when deciding between 30 and 40 weights, there is most likely a very negligible difference.
On all of the late model cars that come through my shop, any of the LS, Hemi or Ford mod motors, I use Mobil1 of the weight the factory recommends (unless the customer specifies otherwise) regardless of weather it's stock, mildly modded or even supercharded/turbo. If it's destined to be a race only applcation, I go one weight thinner, and if it's a higher mileage street motor (75k+) I go one weight heavier.
I would just stick with what Yamaha recommends until you get alot of miles on it, then either start using a good additive with it or step up one weight (5w30 or 0w40). Either way, I can't see where you'd have a problem unless you tried going to a 20w50 or something.
 
I would think 0w-40 would cold start in the moring same as 0w-30. With a quality oil like Mobil 1 especially. In time oil additives break down so this would affect the viscosity down the line.
Best way is to have the oil analyzed to see what it ends up with at one's change. I would suspect the oil runs at higher temps then in cars given are cooling situation. i.e. low snow conditions,etc. so this would break down the oil faster.
I ran 0w-40 after my 07 from new used a little oil with 0w-30. It dropped useage after switching to 0w-40. I'm a big guy and the hills here are steep. So my motor worked harder then some. I had a 1974 K4 Blazer I ran on the Cape Cod sand dunes when younger. It had a mild cam,raceing headers. It used 10w-30 oil at a quart a day running the beaches. Oil temps use to rise alot. I had a oil cooler on it to help. On road very little. I switched to 20-40 Castrol when it first came out and it dropped usage. This was my factor on switching to 0w-40.
 
I had mine analyzed just for kicks and giggles and it was all good.

I ran this oil for 2000 km and the filter was a K&N. Engine has a total of 8200 km. And the reference to the rare earth magnets is because I indicated to them that I have a couple of them on the filter to capture fine metal particles.
 

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