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Monoshock rear idler replacement - help with bolt removal!

Metallicat

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Messages
1,796
Location
Northville, MI
The second set of outside idler wheels in the mono rear are attached by bolts that seems to be obstructed by the front swing arm.

I had planned on simply installing longer rear bolts on the front 4 idlers to mount my new Doo wheels. I can do this for the front set of wheels, but the second set of outside wheels - looks like you have to remove the rear skid and push the front arm out of the way to get the bolt out.

Has anyone replaced all 4 front idler wheels with the larger Doo / Poo wheels AND used longer bolts without having to remove the rear skid?

I might just machine down all 6 mounts and use the stock bolts.

BTW - the torque on those ider wheel bolts from the factory is insane! I stripped one of the nuts because my socket wrench tilted while I was taking it off. Does anyone know the torque spec for these bolts?
 

Hey Len Todd, I see you live in Baldwin! How are the salmon running now?

I have a friend, John Beuter, who runs a fly fishing / motel business out of Baldwin. His fiance owns the Cloud 9 motel. I might be up this weekend for a little salmon action.




Len Todd said:
You might take a look at this for Torque Specs

Can't help you with you other question. But, If I ran into that, I would be machining the mounts.
 
They are running. It has been a bit slow, from time-to-time. But, ... it has been fairly consistent.

I am on the Baldwin River. I have them in the river in front of my house. But, the Baldwin River is closed right now. ;-)

If you come up, give me a call. At the very least, I can offer a pop or beer. I am in the book.


Click here for local fishing report

Now back to the topic at hand. ...
 
Cool! I will definitely give you a call if I come up on Saturday.

Well, I put the torque wrench on an idler wheel that I hadn't yet removed, and it came off with about 35 ft-lbs of torque according to my wrench!

My dad has a lathe in his garage, will see if he can chuck up the mounts and machine them for me!


Len Todd said:
They are running. It has been a bit slow, from time-to-time. But, ... it has been fairly consistent.

I am on the Baldwin River. I have them in the river in front of my house. But, the Baldwin River is closed right now. ;-)

If you come up, give me a call. At the very least, I can offer a pop or beer. 231.745.9241


Click here for local fishing report

Now back to the topic at hand. ...
 
when i did my sled i cut the mounts down. if you look at the rear idler wheels you kinda have to in order to keep the wheels between the drive cogs being the bearing width is different
 
The rear wheels took 60lbs of force on my torque wrench to break free! The person operating the air wrench must have forgotten to take it off of the primary clutch bolt setting when they torqued those idlers, lol!

Yeah, I have pretty much decided to machine ALL of the mounts. The rear mounts will have .060 taken off, the front .120 so I can use the stock front bolts. The rear bolts are plenty long enough but the front ones are not unless you machine the mounts to account for the difference between the stock and the 6205 bearing width. The front wheels will be slightly biased towards the inside but there is a lot of clearance so no worries.


700SCOTT said:
when i did my sled i cut the mounts down. if you look at the rear idler wheels you kinda have to in order to keep the wheels between the drive cogs being the bearing width is different
 
i'll agree sometimes they'll go a little overboard when tightening the bolts, but in the same respect i'd rather it be too tight then too loose. i will also tell you the taller wheels will make your slides last for ages, especially with a "low snow" wheel kit in the front ;)!
Metallicat said:
The rear wheels took 60lbs of force on my torque wrench to break free! The person operating the air wrench must have forgotten to take it off of the primary clutch bolt setting when they torqued those idlers, lol!

Yeah, I have pretty much decided to machine ALL of the mounts. The rear mounts will have .060 taken off, the front .120 so I can use the stock front bolts. The rear bolts are plenty long enough but the front ones are not unless you machine the mounts to account for the difference between the stock and the 6205 bearing width. The front wheels will be slightly biased towards the inside but there is a lot of clearance so no worries.


700SCOTT said:
when i did my sled i cut the mounts down. if you look at the rear idler wheels you kinda have to in order to keep the wheels between the drive cogs being the bearing width is different
 
New Doo wheels are on! Had .060 shaved off of the rear and .120 off of the front 2 sets of wheels.

2832208599.jpg
 
Can't get matching rear Doo wheels...maybe red Yammi wheels though!

I wanted black Doo or Poo wheels, but found some red Doo wheels in stock for $20 each and they look pretty good on my sled, I think.

Those Doo wheels shave 50lbs off of the chassis ya know :tg:

Mighty said:
Doo Wheels on a Yamaha :die
They actually look really nice. Now to get matching rears ;)!
 


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