OFT Racing: How to cure "hot under the collar"...

[MotoPsycho]

We are extremely excited to introduce our latest product. From OEM sleds to mid-mount turbo's, here is the next "latest and greatest"!!

OFT is now a distributor of the Roest Racing IP vent, the best fitting and most thought out design for Nytro venting on the market today!

The IP Vent is easy to install and provides over 40 square inches of venting area directly above the main heat source. The vent is constructed of laser cut black anodized aluminum and rugged, free flowing screen.

Fit is like OEM with no alterations necessary to hood, only the OEM instrument panel. Top quality hardware is included for trouble-free install.

I cannot believe the fit of this product! when dealing with OEM plastic components, it is hard to hold a tolerance... but Roest has done it!


There are several options for gauge mounting including:

• -no gauge
  -oem location
  -riser location (natural bracket)
  -riser location (black anodized)

We haven't put these up on our site yet, so please contact myself or SCMURS via PM, E-mail, or our website for more info!

 

[YamaMTX]

I seen a thread on this product in the past and was waiting for real life reviews on it. Any testing yet on it?

 

[bagadonitz]

Same here. I'm of the opinion that this is just a path of less resistance for air that is coming in through the front shroud to go out through BEFORE it even gets through the radiator.

I'd love to see some real world testing on it.

 

[yammi4ever]

I don't think it matters if it helps air get through the radiator, as any heat in the engine area will rise and get out through this vent. Any vent will have to help get rid of the heat, especially in a area that has no venting now.

I really like the gauge relocate bracket, might have to own one of these.

Moto, you need to get some new pics with this kit installed with your relocate kit on, kinda bad advertising for you guys LOL.

Love my relocate by the way.

kirk

 

[YamaMTX]

I agree any venting will help above the engine! The main thing I was worried about is that area usualy collects snow bad. Is it going to cause a lot of water to constantly drip onto the motor? and in return cause steam to fog up goggles? Just looking for some testing and if that comes back good I'm sold!

 

[MotoPsycho]

I agree any venting will help above the engine! The main thing I was worried about is that area usualy collects snow bad. Is it going to cause a lot of water to constantly drip onto the motor? and in return cause steam to fog up goggles? Just looking for some testing and if that comes back good I'm sold!

This thread is more about the IP Vent than the relocator, but they do make a wonderful pair!

 

[BigECB]

I agree any venting will help above the engine! The main thing I was worried about is that area usualy collects snow bad. Is it going to cause a lot of water to constantly drip onto the motor? and in return cause steam to fog up goggles? Just looking for some testing and if that comes back good I'm sold!

This thread is more about the IP Vent than the relocator, but they do make a wonderful pair!

How easy was it to move the gauge cluster to the bars? You need to add any length to the standard wiring?

 

[Hornet Handler]

Same here. I'm of the opinion that this is just a path of less resistance for air that is coming in through the front shroud to go out through BEFORE it even gets through the radiator.

I'd love to see some real world testing on it.

I would venture to say that the airflow through the rad is probably pretty poor because of where its placed and the fact that there is little opportunity for air to exit behind it. It flows best when the fan is on, trying to draw air through it, but again there is no proper exit for that air. A radiator that can not shed its heat due to proper airflow RADIATES it. Get the heat outta there.

 

[MotoPsycho]

How easy was it to move the gauge cluster to the bars? You need to add any length to the standard wiring?

There was enough OEM wiring to move it - even with the relocator... it took a bit of work, but there is enough.

First, you need to separate the wiring for the IAT sensor in the airbox from the main loom as far as you can... then re-tape. I believe I also pulled a bit of the cluster harness away from the main harness as well - just give all of the separate systems a bit of room to breathe.

Then, you need to loosen the two zip ties that hold the main loom to the steering gate, and "fuh-nay-gul" the loom to the top of the steering gate and re-tighten the zip ties...

As you can see, this leaves plenty of slack in the instrument cluster harness. barstop to barstop.

 

[BigECB]

Nice Reply!!! Thanks for taking the time and showing the details... Much appreciated!

(ps: Saving up for a TS Boonie Bumper from ya first... then maybe venting!)

 

[MotoPsycho]

No problem Big E! You know, great customer service makes the greatest parts even better!

 

[sonds]

Put my name on 1, I think stoli wants one to

 

[MotoPsycho]

Put my name on 1, I think stoli wants one to

Yeah, yer both on the list... yer gittin that special "brother-in-law" deal... you know, the one where you pay 5% MORE than anyone else?

 

[sonds]

Put my name on 1, I think stoli wants one to

Yeah, yer both on the list... yer gittin that special "brother-in-law" deal... you know, the one where you pay 5% MORE than anyone else?

 

[MotoPsycho]

I've had a few questions about the wiring when using the bar riser mount.

Here is a short video that shows routing, and it also shows there is no binding or fitment problems...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uC_ASk7Ouxs