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Reason for Exhaust breaking??

MrSled

Site Admin/CEO
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Apr 13, 2003
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54
Location
Schofield, WI
Website
www.totallyamaha.com
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2020 Sidewinder SRX
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o6aqMmtDpQ

Check this out:

This was sent to me from Excell Motorsports... this may be the reason that the Exhaust is breaking on the Apex and RX1 Chassis... after many miles the rivets are pulling through, add the heavy gas tank back on and you have no more rigidity.
 
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I have one sitting broken in the garage waiting to be fixed, thanks for the post I'll have to check that out.
 
I love the look and sound of our rear exit exhaust systems. But they do not work as good as they sound on paper. I've broke numerous exhaust parts on my Apex.

Those pieces take a serious beating back there. The pipes are also too thin. The ice build up kind of stinks too.
 
MrSled said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o6aqMmtDpQ

Check this out:

This was sent to me from Excell Motorsports... this may be the reason that the Exhaust is breaking on the Apex and RX1 Chassis... after many miles the rivets are pulling through, add the heavy gas tank back on and you have no more rigidity.

I ignored this to my own peril: broke, replaced or welded; 3 silencers, 2 sets of MBRP SS Y-pipes, and one stock Y-pipe. I have attempted to repair it since (NOW the sled decides it doesn't want to run). In 11,970 miles I have NEVER ended a season with an intact exhaust after it hit 5000 miles. Almost a spring/fall and sometimes winter ritual with this sled :o| . Still cheaper and less work than swapping blown motors :yam:

IMHO: The exhaust (Y-pipes, silencer) is connected to the tunnel, and that tunnel does an awful lot of flexing over time - failure is imminent.
 
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have to point this out to kirkswim but on his war the mount rivits for the exh where the ones that where loose. be a good thing to check as well.
 
Thanks
Was actually welding my exhaust up today.
I will dave to check that out on my apex to see if i have that problem
 
Had this happen to my sled and broke my headers in half. Had to make a plate on the top of it and then bolted it throw the same holes and it has been fine for two years now. Use 1/8 aluminum to save weight. :sled1:
 
That video is of my sled, 2008 Apex with 12,000 miles. Just picked it up today, saw the video at Excell while there.
Had new Excell pipes put on Jan 2013, 3,000 miles later the right header cracked at Y where attach bracket is welded on. I couldn't believe all those rivets had failed but then again the tug hill trails can be brutal on equipment sometimes.
Nick in another post that has 79k on his Vector must have some damn smooth trails to run all the time!

Big thanks to Excell for getting sled repaired in just a few days, still rideable snow an hour north of me ;)!
 
just got mine back today from welder.
My buddys xtx broke the other day also.
I found these rivets loose and used rivet washers on the under
side back at the start of the year.
They are loose again like video.
Did they up size the rivets or just use washers??
I have a better rivet gun now.
30,000km
Thanks
 
Same here.
I had to do a front heat exchanger last year at 11,000 miles because of a pick and all my exhaust bracket rivets were loose and sloppy,
I used large aluminum back up rivet washers. I started with the front heat exchanger and ended up using 100 rivets in various places like foot wells, tunnel heat exchangers and bulkhead/ tunnel area. Perfectly normal for high mileage sleds that are driven hard. My old ZRT 6 started needing replacement rivets at 3000 miles. Some required replacement every year after that because of chassis flex.

Although harder to replace parts, there may be something to be said about gluing/bonding these chassis together.
 
I put stainless button heads in mine a few years ago along with new doughnuts(ground down stops on clamps) and pipe(mbrp) still broke near the back this season. Headers,flex pipes and doughnuts still good after 3k miles though.
 
GUKROKIT -They still broke after replacing with stainless? Are you saying you used stainless screws/bolts, or stainless rivets?

Timeline - Your idea of bonding together as well sounds good, but with the difference in materials, what are you thinking would be a suitable material to use? I've got several different bonding adhesives for autobody, and some are nearly indestructable, but I can't think of one that I know if that stands out as "the one" to use?

What's everyones thought about a sandwich plate that would fit on top of the two parts shown in the video, that would rivet in with the rivets shown, and connect to the rivets that hold the front exhaust bracket? It'd be like a re-enforcing/anit-flex plate of sorts?
 


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