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Skidoo 137 SC5 skid in 08' Nytro....need some advice

wizzard717

Newbie
Joined
Jan 30, 2007
Messages
16
First off, i'm not posting this to get ripped on. I'm looking for some advice. I have a 08' nytro that i have ripped out the stock 121 suspension. I have a 137 skidoo skid i want to put in. The width of the two skids are very very close so there is no issue there. I have all the dimensions of mounting locations that came off the DOO. But my main question is at what point do i measure down in my tunnel to get my centers. Skidoo's tunnels are at 90 degree angles up where the tunnel meets the seat area. The 08 yami's are kind of funny and they do like two 45 degree angles before it hits the top portion of the tunnel. I'm just not sure where to measure down from for a starting point. Can anyone point me in the right direction ? Anyone done a similar install ? I havnt found anyone that has done a SC5 in a nytro yet but I think its very possible, just takes some thought. I almost feel that i can use the factory holes for the front suspension bolts. WIth how i measured it, it seems pretty close, like within 3/8" of an inch. I just dont want this skid to look funny in this nytro like it sits too low or too high or something like that. Anyone have any input ?
 

I think it is very doable and i would read throught the artic cat float thread in the mountain section as it is full of usefull info on how to locate the skid. I am currently putting a cat skid in my nytro
 
I've done a couple skid swaps, but never on a nytro. I think its going to be a good swap tho, that doo suspension should work well in there.

You could try using a rope tied to the ceiling, and lower the nytro over the suspension, and see how it looks. Compare the bottom of the 45 degree VS the top of the 45 degree, and maybe in the middle. I would think that the length away from the driveshaft will be the more important measurement, so the rails don't hit the drivers, and you have the correct length so you can get your track tight and get the suspension in/out. You could measure the height of the 121 nytro skid VS the Doo skid while sitting on concrete, and compare the difference, and use that to help you decide the height of your holes also. Just some ideas...

Let us know how it works out!
 
First off the skid should be mounted so that when the sled is resting the skid is flat. As sledding farmer said the distance from the driveshaft is important so that the skid can go the entire length of travel without making contact with the drivers. There must also be enough height room in the tunnel for the track to move, but i doubt this would become any problem. You may also look the the length of the rails of each skid and mount according to that length. So if the doo rails are an inch shorter mount the skid one inch back. and if the skidoo's front bolt holes are lets say half an inch lower, drill the hole half an inch lower. Reading through the cat install thread is also a good idea as I have not thoroughly read through it myself. the upper bogey wheels should also be measured and compared to the yamaha skid so that when a track is eventually installed it will tightened properly. As a much different top bogey wheel location will change the length of track needed depending on where the skid is located. Most of the issue is determining a position that the track will have to wrap around and a mounting position that allows the skid and sled to be flat.

I also just noticed you are using a longer skid, so the length of track you are looking to install is important. If it is a 144 or 136 look on tracks usa and find the length of their extension for the stock skid to run that length of track and add that measurement to what you measure on the stock skid. And for measuring the rail's I would use the middle portion of the rear adjuster slots for one point.

As for using the factory mounting holes i think that 3/8 of an inch will affect the balance of the sled. It would be best to make new reinforcement plates similar to those on the front mointing point of the stock skid to reinforce the tunnel and cover the factory hole as leaving a hole that close to the new one you drill, and not reinforcing it may cause problems in the future.
 
Thanks for the tips, i have the exact dimensions off the xp sled of where the skid was in relation to the driveshaft and what not but i'm thinking that it doesnt matter because i'm putting it in a totally different sled. I think if i compare the stock nytro skid on concrete compared to the xp skid is where i should start. I will first start by lining up both skids next to one another with the very front part of skid (rails) so they are even. Then i will compare where my front arm is on the xp skid compared to the nytros. With that difference i should be able to transfer the dimension onto the tunnel and use the existing nytro hole as a reference. The rear holes will fall in place accordingly and i can make a template so the other side is exact. My only question i have is.......if i have the stock skids on concrete without any weight compressing the skid, is it ok to get my measurements off it ? I'm still very nervous of the whole geometry being off. I think if i use the nytro skid as a basis, i should be able to get that skidoo skid close.
 
Lighter, better approach angle, better weight transfer. I came from skidoo and had many of the sc suspensions and they are a piece of cake to get dialed in not to mention they are great when set up for off trail. I'm going to take measurements tonight and if I can do this project without the additions of drop brackets on the rear mounts, I'm going to do it and post pics. Mines an 08 so I have the wider tunnel that might allow me to avoid drop brackets, we ll see.....
 
I think using the measurements of mountain points on an xp sled would be better than using the measurements of the skid with no weight on it. If you have ever installed your nytro skid the torsion springs need to be disconnected to line up with the holes, I can imagine it would be the same on the skidoo.
 
On my xp ski doo the mounting holes line up perfectly. I also install the Nytro skid without any problems too tho...except for the ridiculous weight! I never had to unhook the torsion springs.
 
207nytro said:
I think using the measurements of mountain points on an xp sled would be better than using the measurements of the skid with no weight on it. If you have ever installed your nytro skid the torsion springs need to be disconnected to line up with the holes, I can imagine it would be the same on the skidoo.

I agree. Its rare that the Center to Center of the mount holes(tunnel) are the same as those of an uninstalled(relaxed) skid.

One of the things I did when installing the Cat skid in my Viper, was to establish a base line from the center of the drive shaft and the newly established rear mounting hole, then measured the distance forward and down off the line to get the front mount. This insured the right geometry to the driveshaft, compared to the doner sled
Heres a link to my measurements to give you an idea of what Im saying. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/show ... hp?t=25539 For the rear hole, measuring down from the top of the tunnel and back from the center of the driveshaft, should give you a good place to start.

Keep in mind, my driveshaft was only 1/2" different( higher/lower) then the shaft of the Cat, so this made it easy to dial in the balance between the skid and front suspension.
 
sleddingfarmer said:
On my xp ski doo the mounting holes line up perfectly. I also install the Nytro skid without any problems too tho...except for the ridiculous weight! I never had to unhook the torsion springs.

i have also been thinking of installing a different suspension in my nytro aswell. are you saying that the nytro skid goes in the xp perfectly with no modifications? if so does that mean I could install an xp skid directly in my nytro, it is a 2008 nytro, I think it is a different tunnel than the nytro se. sorry for the stupid questions, I am a total noob when it comes to suspensions.
 
No, what he is saying is that when he installs his XP skid into his XP, the mounting holes all line up with the skid without having to loosen,pry,or unbolt anything in the skid to get them lined up.

An example would be when installing the ProAction skid, once you have istalled the front and middle mounting bolts, the rear mounting holes are usually way off from the rear skid mount. But if you loosen the bolts in the end of the transfer rods, you can easily line up the rear mounts
 
Thats what ive been thinking... If you wanted to yo could get a holz skid with custom 136 tipped rails but thats as short as i have came without spending over $1000.
 
a few guys have been putn in cat skids, 25-20 lbs lighter and cheap too if i remember. I know there are a few threads in the mountain section about it, surf around in there for it..
 


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