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Snirt Ski Setup

Derailed

Veteran
Joined
Dec 6, 2012
Messages
34
Location
Ontario, Canada
Since we haven’t been travelling so much, I’ve been riding southern Ontario more on sub par trail conditions with sometimes a lot of road scratching. I’m still running the stock tuners on my 17 winder. I recently put on a set 4” Yamaha runners and they are almost wore clean through at the rear of the runner after 3-4 tanks of fuel.

I will get a ski upgrade (Stryke maybe) for up North/Quebec riding but was thinking to keep running the tuners down here.

At suggestions for a longer lasting runner where performance is less of a consideration vs durability and cost? Also if there’s an adjustment I could make to get a more even wear pattern on the runners that would help.

Cheers,
 

I ride Southern Ontario and know exactly what your talking about. When I was running the tuners I was using stud boy shaper bars. I now run curve skis with shaper bars and the 4” leading edge on my sidewinder and they have been holding up well.
 
Since we haven’t been travelling so much, I’ve been riding southern Ontario more on sub par trail conditions with sometimes a lot of road scratching. I’m still running the stock tuners on my 17 winder. I recently put on a set 4” Yamaha runners and they are almost wore clean through at the rear of the runner after 3-4 tanks of fuel.

I will get a ski upgrade (Stryke maybe) for up North/Quebec riding but was thinking to keep running the tuners down here.

At suggestions for a longer lasting runner where performance is less of a consideration vs durability and cost? Also if there’s an adjustment I could make to get a more even wear pattern on the runners that would help.

Cheers,
Shim the rubber. On my apex with curves, I have some heel pressure. On the sidewinder with curves, I have a little front pressure, basically level, and the skags wear more in front of the spindle. I did this for easy steering with the slim jim doolys. The handlebars still return straight so theres enough heel pressure under riding conditions. But yesterday, destroyed the front of the skags on Old Dirt Forge roads. The constant stones took out all four front carbides. But they have been on for years, so not blaming the skags. Apex has nice even wear, front and back. Slim jims work well for me on the curve skis.
 
The yamaha carbides suck. The qualipieces top gold carbides last much longer on the tuners. Like others said, shim the ski rubber to get even wear as well.
 
Built myself a carbide sharpener jig and always add hardweld and then sharpen that to match carbide Iam running … Makes even stock 4” runners work well … I have noticed that more and more carbides do not have the wear pads in front and back of main carbide.. Looks like some companies want the average sledder to buy more carbide much sooner than later..
 
Built myself a carbide sharpener jig and always add hardweld and then sharpen that to match carbide Iam running … Makes even stock 4” runners work well … I have noticed that more and more carbides do not have the wear pads in front and back of main carbide.. Looks like some companies want the average sledder to buy more carbide much sooner than later..
I agree. The hard weld pads in front can take rocks and steel deck bridges. Carbide is brittle, and small cracked pieces can come out of the brazed in groove and its downhill after that, unless you never hit another road or rocky seasonal road with low snow.
 
can you guys tell me if having the skis set in the wider position changes the steering effort at all?buy moving the spacer in the ski, from inside the spindle to the outside?
 
That adjustment allows the sled to corner flater with less chance of ski lift providing you allow your front track shock rods to have full travel. In other words have your front shock springs to be set toward the softer lower side… If you want to change your steering effort you can do this with front shock suspension spring setting… More preload less or lighter steering effort, less preload just the opposite, heavy or more steering effort…
 
Sorry I meant to type front Spring rods at full travel will allow to corner flatter… Front springs set toward softer setting… sled sets lower but has more travel
 


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