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SR Viper HID Install Procedure

grizztracks

Tech Advisor
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
3,110
Age
60
Location
Scio, NY
Country
USA
Snowmobile
FX Nytro RTX, RS Vector, SR Viper RTX SE
A detailed procedure for installation of a HID kit in the SR Viper:

**This is not a discussion on who's hid kit is better**
PLEASE LIMIT THE DISCUSSION TO HID INSTALLATIONS OR ISSUES WITH AN INSTALLATION

Remove hood by removing the 6 screws and disconnecting gauge pod wire harness.


Remove windshield and cowl assembly (2 screws under rear of hood and 4 on top near gauge pod)



Remove headlight (4 screws)



Remove rubber boots, bulb retainers and halogen bulbs ( a special tool can be made to remove/install the retainer)


Whatever hid kit you select, most will install in a similar manor. I prefer DDM Tuning which are not Yamaha specific but are plug and play compatable and also have a lifetime warranty. There are other quality kits through Yamaha or Rocztoyz.

35 watt ballast, H4 hi/lo bulbs, 4500k bulb color,


I've found removing the antiglare nose cone gives better illumination of the HID bulbs (optional)


Remove the bulbs from their mounting shields by carefully twisting and pulling out ( do not touch bulbs)


Install the bulb shield mounts into the headlight housing and lock into place with original retaining ring ( the retaining ring can be difficult to remove and reinstall without a special tool)



Reinstall rubber boots


Install HID bulbs in the headlight housing then reinstall the housing in the hood.


Install bracket of your choice on ballast (optional bracket)


There are several options for mounting the ballast with or without a bracket. I used the optional DDM tuning bracket and installed the ballast on top of the headlight housing. To do this place the windshield and cowl assembly back on the hood. Before starting the front screws, slide the ballast mounting brackets between the headlight and the cowl so when the screws are installed they pass through the bracket. Finish installing all the cowl screws.



Connect all wires from the bulbs to their proper ballast and depending on the kit, make up the final connections to power the HID system. Properly secure all wires as needed.

Note: kits like the DDM tuning kit come supplied with a wiring harness that needs to be connected to the positive lead of the battery and properly grounded. It also includes a HI/LO beam control relay that is connected to one of the 3 prong plugs that originally powered the Halogen bulbs. Other kits come with Patch Cables that eliminate the relay and battery harness. Both systems work well but the patch cables simplify wiring. I elected to purchase the patch cables separately and with a small modification installed them with the DDM system to eliminate the extra wiring. More information can be provided on how to do the final wiring if needed.

DDM with patch cables


Typical relay harness that can be eliminated with patch cables


Relay harness connections
 
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Where do you get the patch cables? Seems much simpler

$20 from Sledstart. You have to splice the hi/lo control wires because the connector is different but it's a simple fix.
 
Very clean :)

I ride HID they have bigger ballast:mad:( 6000k) and i would like them more yellow 4500k like yours

Question is ,where you install your 2 ballast can you still adjust the #$%&*^|>\>!! Tiny beam angle bolt, in real condition ???? Not in the garage......
 
Rocks setup is plug and play. No need to splice anything. I sandwiched my ballasts one on each side of headlight between light and shroud. No screws needed. Working great!
 
Very clean :)

I ride HID they have bigger ballast:mad:( 6000k) and i would like them more yellow 4500k like yours

Question is ,where you install your 2 ballast can you still adjust the #$%&*^|>\>!! Tiny beam angle bolt, in real condition ???? Not in the garage......

Yes, you could adjust it out on the trail. Even if a ballast is in the way removing a single cowl bolt will allow it to be moved out of the way. I don't think most will be out on the trail readjusting their headlight. Normally you experiment a couple times and once it's set never go back in there.

Rocks setup is plug and play. No need to splice anything. I sandwiched my ballasts one on each side of headlight between light and shroud. No screws needed. Working great!

I've installed a few sledstart kits but never have installed one of Rocks kits. I see you can order his HIDs from sledtoyz.com but I don't see them listed on his website. Does Rock's kit come with a hi/lo relay and have to be wired to the battery or does it utilize patch cables similar to sledstarts?
 
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Rocks setup is plug and play. No need to splice anything. I sandwiched my ballasts one on each side of headlight between light and shroud. No screws needed. Working great!
I have the same kit works awesome! easy to install just plug and play and you cant beat his customer service!
 
Yes, you could adjust it out on the trail. Even if a ballast is in the way removing a single cowl bolt will allow it to be moved out of the way. I don't think most will be out on the trail readjusting their headlight. Normally you experiment a couple times and once it's set never go back in there.



I've installed a few sledstart kits but never have installed one of Rocks kits. I see you can order his HIDs from sledtoyz.com but I don't see them listed on his website. Does Rock's kit come with a hi/lo relay and have to be wired to the battery or does it utilize patch cables similar to sledstarts?
His uses the patch cables so just take out old lights and plug into ballets.
 
Lets not populate this post with who's kit is better. HID INSTALLATION is the topic so let keep the discussion to helping others install the HID kit of their choice instead of filling it with clutter that readers have to sift through for answers.
 
The point is that there are kits out there that are plug and play with less wiring and no modifications necessary.

I like your brackets. Hard to tell how stiff they are by the pics, but it looks like they cantilever out pretty far.
 
Nice details I have a set sitting ready to go into the 15 as soon as I get it back from Allen.
 
The point is that there are kits out there that are plug and play with less wiring and no modifications necessary.

I like your brackets. Hard to tell how stiff they are by the pics, but it looks like they cantilever out pretty far.

The ddm brackets are not very strong but even if they do bend they can't go very far. I have a second set that I plan on using as a template to make a couple aluminum mounts that will be stronger.
 
Very nice install write up...here is where I mounted my ballasts just to give another mounting option..
image.jpeg
 


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