1975FA
Expert
I just repacked the bearing on the speedometer side of my drive shaft. I noticed I can slide the shaft side to side an inch or so. Is this normal or is this telling me the bolt in the chain case end is broken or backed out?
BigDogrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Better check in chain case, should not move like that.
R00STER
Expert
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- 2013 Nytro xtx 1.75
x2
NS FX NYTRO
Expert
I just asked this question. Even if your chaincase bolt is broke it will 99% of the time be fine. People have ran their nytros for over 5000 miles without a lower gear bolt (chaincase) and its fine. It is however a good idea to pull the chaincase cover and remove the bolt head that has broken off, even though it's contains inside the cup of the lower gear.
Once you bolt the bearing retainer over the bearing the axel cannot move side to side.
Once you bolt the bearing retainer over the bearing the axel cannot move side to side.
poor farmer/logger
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2015 SR Viper XTX 2009 Yamaha Nytro XTX
with the set screws locked in on the bearing collar on the left hand side there should be no movement. Assume they still use set screws in there anyways. Haven't actually had my nytro apart yet but the other ones I've worked on have used em.
SnoBird888
Expert
I would defiantly not tighten those set screws until you push the driveshaft all the way into the chaincase. Without that bolt there is really no way to know if the shaft is in the correct side to side position. Correct procedure when installing the driveshaft is to tighten that broken bolt on the chaincase side first so that is all lined up and then set the bearing location on the clutch side if it was removed or replaced. Since you said you slide it back and forth id open that chaincase either way.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
I would defiantly not tighten those set screws until you push the driveshaft all the way into the chaincase. Without that bolt there is really no way to know if the shaft is in the correct side to side position. Correct procedure when installing the driveshaft is to tighten that broken bolt on the chaincase side first so that is all lined up and then set the bearing location on the clutch side if it was removed or replaced. Since you said you slide it back and forth id open that chaincase either way.
X2. Although I will add that the only thing keeping the driveshaft centered in the above scenario are the 2 small setscrews on the left side bearing. The reason the bolt breaks in the first place is because the driveshaft is too short on the chaincase side. You can solve the bolt breaking problem by adding a spacer between the end of the driveshaft and the rest of the parts. Yamaha solved the problem by lengthening the driveshaft.
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SnoBird888
Expert
To my knowledge the spacer goes under the spring cup to fill the void between where it bottoms out and the driveshaft ends. My friend made me one and the gap is about 4.9-5mm. made mine 4.95mm which should do the trick. Once I get my chaincase back together this week im going to reset the set screw clutch side bearing so its seated correctly. I did the same thing when I replaced that bearing last year and slide the shaft back and fourth w/o regard to seeing if there was other issues. Sure as $hit the head of the bolt was chilling inside the spring cup.
NS FX NYTRO
Expert
If you tighten the retainer plate bolts (4) before you tighten the set screws on the bearing, the driveshaft has no choice but to be in the correct position. Unless you have a magic Stretch, shrinking driveshaft of course.
In the end it's best to pull the Chaincase cover and either remove the broken bolt, or replace bolt with spacer.
In the end it's best to pull the Chaincase cover and either remove the broken bolt, or replace bolt with spacer.
1975FA
Expert
Pulled the chain case apart tonight. The bolt was broken off and the broken piece had unscrewed itself so no problem getting it out. I used blue loctite last time I put it together. Should I go with red loctite or none at all?
I took my nytro(08) apart to find the same thing, broken bolt. Went to the dealer on Saturday, got latest bolt. 90105-10369 that has 10H on the end of it. Put collar onto driveshaft, threaded bolt in. The collar is loose on the shaft, it moves in/out.
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Did what Peter suggested, install spacers against the end of the shaft. Looks like will need to add 1/2 a washer to get to 5mm.
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