unchained
Expert
What exactly is the objective of every third window closed? I use to think it was to hold snow in and improve slider lube/life, etc.
Just reading a Camoplast of Canada add it is basicaly for economy and makes the tracks cheaper to manufacture.
I havnt noticed any improvements in slider wear--if not even a little worse on my last few sleds and noticed these carriage bolts from SLP for the un-punched windows. Any opinons or thoughts about these or this topic should be interesting.....
SLP Track/Hifax Anti-wear pads
Increased Performance!
Product Information:
Part # Description Retail
20-160 Track Drill 12.12
25-101 Anti Wear Pad Kit per each: 1 pad, 1 washer, 1 nut 0.74
25-102 Anti Wear Pad Kit 40 pack: for 136/144/151" tracks 29.60
25-103 Anti Wear Pad Kit 32 Pack: for 121" tracks 23.68
25-104 Anti Wear Pad Kit 42 pack: for 159" tracks 31.08
25-105 Anti Wear Pad Kit 44 pack: for 166" tracks 32.56
These wear pads reduce drag and wear on hifax. Designed for the tracks that are not equipped with windows or wear clips on each cross bar. Without these anti-wear pads you will have higher hifax temperature, more drag against the track and even depositing rubber on the hifax. Eventual damage to the track is also possible. A very inexpensive method to increase performance and hifax life.
Just reading a Camoplast of Canada add it is basicaly for economy and makes the tracks cheaper to manufacture.
I havnt noticed any improvements in slider wear--if not even a little worse on my last few sleds and noticed these carriage bolts from SLP for the un-punched windows. Any opinons or thoughts about these or this topic should be interesting.....
SLP Track/Hifax Anti-wear pads
Increased Performance!
Product Information:
Part # Description Retail
20-160 Track Drill 12.12
25-101 Anti Wear Pad Kit per each: 1 pad, 1 washer, 1 nut 0.74
25-102 Anti Wear Pad Kit 40 pack: for 136/144/151" tracks 29.60
25-103 Anti Wear Pad Kit 32 Pack: for 121" tracks 23.68
25-104 Anti Wear Pad Kit 42 pack: for 159" tracks 31.08
25-105 Anti Wear Pad Kit 44 pack: for 166" tracks 32.56
These wear pads reduce drag and wear on hifax. Designed for the tracks that are not equipped with windows or wear clips on each cross bar. Without these anti-wear pads you will have higher hifax temperature, more drag against the track and even depositing rubber on the hifax. Eventual damage to the track is also possible. A very inexpensive method to increase performance and hifax life.
Attachments
unpride
Expert
I was wondering the same thing actually. I thought with more HP you would want the track clipped every window? Hey as long as the rest of sled is problem free a track is the least of my concerns. Im sure it was designed that way for a reason
unchained
Expert
This track isnt exclusive to Yami 4 strokes. Been around for a while and been pretty much std on a lot of sleds. Im trying to find it again, but the add I saw yesterday said it was for economy--not performance....unpride said:
skyboz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
With all this talk about ratcheting I'm already concerned with how tight you have to run the track!! It will definitetly wear the hyfax faster. But what about fuel economy and top speed? I'm damn sure running a looser track will help these two areas. Even though the owners manual states about one inch of slack @ 22 lbs............... I'm going to start researching different drivers!!! 
700Canuk
Extreme
As someone who enjoys drag racing, I do believe friction is increased when you have rubber contacting the hyfax... therfore I swaped the Ripsaw out for a fully clipped 6 pitch Preditor which will see studs after it is broken in.
I only have a couple kms on the sled, but it did seem to ratchet more easily than previous sleds... so it is possible this sled may need to run a slightly tighter track than I am used too. Those racing on grass in the summer did not seem to exhibit any problems, but the sleds were lowered and attack angles changed.
Basically, only time will tell... once everything is broken in. I have however, already invested in a set of small Yamaha idler (or stab wheels) to cut down on the rolling resistance, but have not been out since.
From here... just plan on taking it one step at a time.
I only have a couple kms on the sled, but it did seem to ratchet more easily than previous sleds... so it is possible this sled may need to run a slightly tighter track than I am used too. Those racing on grass in the summer did not seem to exhibit any problems, but the sleds were lowered and attack angles changed.
Basically, only time will tell... once everything is broken in. I have however, already invested in a set of small Yamaha idler (or stab wheels) to cut down on the rolling resistance, but have not been out since.
From here... just plan on taking it one step at a time.
unchained
Expert
In theory the rubber would not glide as well as steel across the hard hyfax. If the tracks are simply not punched to save money on clips and processing than these SLP carriage bolts might something to considerskyboz said:With all this talk about ratcheting I'm already concerned with how tight you have to run the track!! It will definitetly wear the hyfax faster. But what about fuel economy and top speed? I'm damn sure running a looser track will help these two areas. Even though the owners manual states about one inch of slack @ 22 lbs............... I'm going to start researching different drivers!!!
skyboz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
unchained said:In theory the rubber would not glide as well as steel across the hard hyfax. If the tracks are simply not punched to save money on clips and processing than these SLP carriage bolts might something to considerskyboz said:With all this talk about ratcheting I'm already concerned with how tight you have to run the track!! It will definitetly wear the hyfax faster. But what about fuel economy and top speed? I'm damn sure running a looser track will help these two areas. Even though the owners manual states about one inch of slack @ 22 lbs............... I'm going to start researching different drivers!!!
True that!! But, the smaller idlers or stab wheels as they were referred to(I have NO idea what they are called, LOL!) sound like a very good option!! Who has them? I did see them on a post, I think, just can't remember!!
700Canuk
Extreme
Yamaha makes a set. They are in the Accessory Catalogue along with clothing, covers, bumpers etc. These are good quality units that are molded to the rail profile. I used these up front. Required just a touch of filing to make them fit to the curved part of the rail.
Up here in Canada Royal sells universal kits which are basically a short steel bar, a wheel, adn 2 bolts to mount everything. OK for asphalt racing in the summer... but will bend when abused.
NOS-PRO has added some home made made idlers (host bar running the full width of the skid with 2 wheels mounted (just like he & I run on asphalt) at the back of the skid. There are pics on here somewhere. Anyway, they closely resemble the Fix Power Sports solution (you can see them on their website). I will be running 192 studs, so will wait until I see how my first set holds up before I invest in anymore 2 3/4" wheels. I have a couple sets ready from racing, but may take them off when pounding the trails... as hyfax is probably cheaper in the long run.
Up here in Canada Royal sells universal kits which are basically a short steel bar, a wheel, adn 2 bolts to mount everything. OK for asphalt racing in the summer... but will bend when abused.
NOS-PRO has added some home made made idlers (host bar running the full width of the skid with 2 wheels mounted (just like he & I run on asphalt) at the back of the skid. There are pics on here somewhere. Anyway, they closely resemble the Fix Power Sports solution (you can see them on their website). I will be running 192 studs, so will wait until I see how my first set holds up before I invest in anymore 2 3/4" wheels. I have a couple sets ready from racing, but may take them off when pounding the trails... as hyfax is probably cheaper in the long run.
favarcat
Expert
I just cut out all the third closed windows on my track.
My sled is an '06 and out of warranty though. Although no one has had a problem from doing this.
This thread is going on in the Apex/Attak forum.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=48453
My sled is an '06 and out of warranty though. Although no one has had a problem from doing this.
This thread is going on in the Apex/Attak forum.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=48453
unchained
Expert
What was your reason for doing this?favarcat said:
favarcat
Expert
So not to have rubber on plastic. Less friction, better hyfax wear.
unchained
Expert
I agree....I know I read that the reason for closed windows was for improved snow retention, cooling, slider wear, etc but Im starting to think it was a cost savings for Camo thus pased down to the manfactures and its really a downgrade for performance to us ????favarcat said:
favarcat
Expert
I used an old hunting knife with some wd-40 for lube.
Came out great. Burn the edges after.
Came out great. Burn the edges after.
skyboz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
IF I do it.........I thought about drilling out the corners and then cutting it out hole to hole! Kind of like drill stops. I'm thinking it will prevent any nicks in the track from cutting too far to grow and cause a world of problems. That's my theory anyway!! LOL!!!
