viper diet....

[yukon yamaha]

yes I am back to the stock battery,
The li-ion batteries do not have enough initial jam to over come the compression of my motor even with the battery warm..... If the battery is at all weak while cranking the motor over it will strip out the teeth on the starter gear. So far I have had to pull the engine twice because the battery didn't have enough jam to push the starter through the compression stroke and it kicked back stripping the teeth. it was two very labour intensive lessons and a few parts later. Not really sure where I wanna go from here. There is not enough room in the nose of the machine to put the YTX20LBS. I am hesitant to go to a YTX14 or 16 because I know the 20 works.
I do however have one more full set up for the starter gear assy..... do I go to a lower cranking battery to save weight? or carry a AMP booster pack for the first start up in the morning running a YTX14.....

 

[birkebeiner]

I hear you Is this an issue for your engine or would it be same issue for a stock engine?

I guess the weight saving will need to come elsewhere?


Birkebeiner

 

[yukon yamaha]

This is just a problem because the stroker kit has raised my compression in my motor

 

[cannondale27]

yes I am back to the stock battery,
The li-ion batteries do not have enough initial jam to over come the compression of my motor even with the battery warm..... If the battery is at all weak while cranking the motor over it will strip out the teeth on the starter gear. So far I have had to pull the engine twice because the battery didn't have enough jam to push the starter through the compression stroke and it kicked back stripping the teeth. it was two very labour intensive lessons and a few parts later. Not really sure where I wanna go from here. There is not enough room in the nose of the machine to put the YTX20LBS. I am hesitant to go to a YTX14 or 16 because I know the 20 works.
I do however have one more full set up for the starter gear assy..... do I go to a lower cranking battery to save weight? or carry a AMP booster pack for the first start up in the morning running a YTX14.....

I still think there has to be a amperage drop with the long battery cables we all have. I have some welding cable that I may experiment with. That said can you run your exhaust valve to the tight side of clearance? Even a little would help the decomp.

 

[yukon yamaha]

Has any one in the last few year installed these?
http://www.takai-racing.com/takai/t...ipforcelv4-ignition-coil-system-06-p-577.html
I have been on and off the fence about these since I built my custom nytro...now looking at them again for my viper ... looking for any one with any experience in this area. Or are their hp claims valid.... all help appreciated
Thanks again!

 

[cannondale27]

Personally I would go with Nology for coils. Using a wire gets the coil out of engine heat.

 

[yukon yamaha]

Started to install the 2016 front suspension on my viper with a 38" stance
began to pull side panels and hood off

next came skis and exit shocks skid plate and belly pan also came off

pulled off the upper, lower arms with spindle all attached

you can see how much a difference these arms could make

left side is put together loosely


AND COMPLICATIONS FROM HERE ON OUT......
the exit shocks have to big of a rez and the top a-arms is not even close to fitting!

I then flipped the shock over to see if it would fit...... not so lucky, the spring closest to the top shock mount hit the plastic pan, too much to heat it up or change its shape.

took the right shock and put it on the left side to see if the bottle would clear .........and it did!!!

as you can see above the top a-arm ball joint has been back along way out to get the top a-arm bolt holes to line up.
when the sled is off the ground the tie rod will clear the bottom a-arm until I turn the bars to the left and it almost instantly hits the bottom arm.... when I turn it to the right there is a lot of room for the tie rod to move.....
not sure were I went wrong here, since the shock should be the same length as the 2016. Going to take another look over the machine later this week.... I changed the suspension back over to my 38" front end last night so I could bring it into the dealership if I am not able make it work. It is always good to get a second set of eyes

 

[loudelectronics]

I just did this conversion on mine. Went from the 38" to the new 36". I have the fox evols on mine and the 38" kit shocks needed to be shortened so I just bought the shocks for the 36" as they are a bit shorter.

I had the same problem as you in this regards. The left side a arm hits the a arm on full turn. The right side did not. I think the left spindle is slightly off from the mold or something. So it is not just you. Just great arctic cat quality control. You will need to shim the ball joint to get it to lift off the a arm.

 

[yukon yamaha]

That was going to be my plan put a extra washer under the tie rod end to lift it up a bit. When I spoke to the guys the 38" front end shocks were expected to work with the 36" front end.
when the front of the machine is off the ground and the suspension is at full travel the tie rod does not hit, it is only when I turn the bars to the left it hits.

 

[loudelectronics]

I wish that was the case. The 36" shocks are shorter. Would have saved me some coin.

 

[yukon yamaha]

yeah I cant give up these exit x2 shocks. Maybe this front end kit is gonna be a bust

 

[fishstick]

Have a look at the Barcode kit. It uses the 38" stock shocks.

 

[Chewy]

Read through you thread, like all the work you've put into the sled, with the auto tune, did you use the stock exhaust bung or do you need to install a new one and if so we're do you place it?

Cheers,

Chris

 

[alpineviper]

send the shocks to exit to get em shortened.

 

[4StrokeAddict]

yes I am back to the stock battery,
The li-ion batteries do not have enough initial jam to over come the compression of my motor even with the battery warm..... If the battery is at all weak while cranking the motor over it will strip out the teeth on the starter gear. So far I have had to pull the engine twice because the battery didn't have enough jam to push the starter through the compression stroke and it kicked back stripping the teeth. it was two very labour intensive lessons and a few parts later. Not really sure where I wanna go from here. There is not enough room in the nose of the machine to put the YTX20LBS. I am hesitant to go to a YTX14 or 16 because I know the 20 works.
I do however have one more full set up for the starter gear assy..... do I go to a lower cranking battery to save weight? or carry a AMP booster pack for the first start up in the morning running a YTX14.....

Have you thought about trying some super caps. Big capacitors will deliver lots of juice all at once and may aid a week battery.