ratman
Extreme
My 2007 Apex RTX does not overheat.
Yet I hear of other apexes needing rear heat exchangers, scratchers.
Last week i was riding with a mach1 and a600 etec, and both were having trouble with overheat...not the apex.
My sled is stock. It has the stock rad and fan, but the fan comes on very rarely (twice this year in 1400kms). It has a 121 clipped track. Skid is not mono type
Could it be that the water/coolant ratio is different on some sleds, or perhaps their coolant is low, or has an air pocket, or bad thermostat, or that a particular sled type or skid type is better for cooling.
Is there a way to test the water/coolant ratio... if so i will test what i am running and post it.
Perhaps if people were to indicate their Apex type, track length and if clipped or fully clipped, skid type, we could find what keeps them cool, and what makes them overheat
Yet I hear of other apexes needing rear heat exchangers, scratchers.
Last week i was riding with a mach1 and a600 etec, and both were having trouble with overheat...not the apex.
My sled is stock. It has the stock rad and fan, but the fan comes on very rarely (twice this year in 1400kms). It has a 121 clipped track. Skid is not mono type
Could it be that the water/coolant ratio is different on some sleds, or perhaps their coolant is low, or has an air pocket, or bad thermostat, or that a particular sled type or skid type is better for cooling.
Is there a way to test the water/coolant ratio... if so i will test what i am running and post it.
Perhaps if people were to indicate their Apex type, track length and if clipped or fully clipped, skid type, we could find what keeps them cool, and what makes them overheat
Agman 57
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Most of the older Apex's were right on the line of overheating or not, depending on trail conditions. If there was any snow on the trail and you weren't running a long distance in marginal conditions you were alright. Get on a long rail bed or trail and run a higher speed on hard pack or ice and the temp light would come on. My 08 for example is one of them, any snow on the trail and it is OK, run hard pack for 10-20 miles and the light comes on. Jump off trail and get in some snow for 2-300 feet and the light goes off. I added the rear tunnel cooler that was a kit for the 136" sleds and have never seen the light come on again. My 2011 Apex's have a rear tunnel cooler standard and the light has never come on in any conditions.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
I know for a fact '06 Apex's came from factory with pure glycol.
Not only does pure freeze at a higher temp than a 50/50 mix, it also doesn't absorb heat worth a #*$&@.
I don't know why Yamaha did such a stupid thing, or when they fixed the situation. I do know as soon as I bought my '06 Apex I immediately drained about 2 quarts of coolant, which was thick as syrup, and added 2 quarts of pure water back in, then topped off reservoir with a 50/50 mix.
I have never had my temp light come on & have ridden in marginal snow conditions many times.
Not only does pure freeze at a higher temp than a 50/50 mix, it also doesn't absorb heat worth a #*$&@.
I don't know why Yamaha did such a stupid thing, or when they fixed the situation. I do know as soon as I bought my '06 Apex I immediately drained about 2 quarts of coolant, which was thick as syrup, and added 2 quarts of pure water back in, then topped off reservoir with a 50/50 mix.
I have never had my temp light come on & have ridden in marginal snow conditions many times.
number1kyster
TY 4 Stroke God
My father and I both bought new Apex's in 07. He bought and Attak GT, I bought the Apex RTX. Mine only overheated once in 13,000 miles. His Attak GT would overheat really easily. We could be riding together and his would over heat and mine wouldn't!
dab102999
Expert
I have an 07 that has been stretched to 144. No extra heat exchange. Did add ice scratchers only because wife's blizzard would get warm on hard pack low snow conditions. I also added water wetter to all my coolants on all my sleds. My light will come on on warm days with low snow after many miles of w.o.t. but I would expect it to on those days anyways.
CaptCaper
TY 4 Stroke God
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This has been talked about for years. From what I've read in the past the ones that added water wetter and made a 50/50 mix ( which I won't do because it gets -40 plus here often) still over heated and found they had to go to a rear cooler. On mine I've rode with many other brands that over heated due to trail conditions. I didn't. I had the rear cooler.
It's all about trial conditions,outside temps,and antifreeze.
It's all about trial conditions,outside temps,and antifreeze.
actionjack
TY 4 Stroke God
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My 07 Attak GT would get hot in very cold conditions (-30c). I drained the coolant and it was very green so I assume it was 100% glycol. I added 50/50 and some water wetter and rarely have seen the light since. It did get warm this season if it idled for a while but riding in snow cooled it right down. I do. It have an added real cooler.
dylanjen9
Expert
My 06 apex never gets hot but buddys 08 easily get hot even after changing anti freeze
yamaha dealer said it is the design of the tunnel protectors when snow goes into tunnel it forms a wall and blocks front heat exchanger not allowing fresh snow to cool in to cool it. ITS TRUE next time your hot light comes on tip sled over and check there will be snow packed in front of heat exchanger and heat exchanger will be so hot you cant touch it
yamaha dealer said it is the design of the tunnel protectors when snow goes into tunnel it forms a wall and blocks front heat exchanger not allowing fresh snow to cool in to cool it. ITS TRUE next time your hot light comes on tip sled over and check there will be snow packed in front of heat exchanger and heat exchanger will be so hot you cant touch it
ScottyD
Expert
my 08 rtx clicked the heat light a few times, all in good snow conditions, i put a rear cooler in from an 09, never saw that light again
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