Rockmeister is on the TY ride in Muni, but he will get to you soon..... 
Rock,
I bought 2 units from crew-chief and my grips were instantly hot many thanks. I was at my local dealer and I was going to tell him about your fix and he told me that your heater fix was mentioned at a Northern Ontario Yamaha dealer meeting this week. He's looking at ordering some for his shop. The Yamaha rep had told him that your design works better than the Yamaha updated heaters. (which I'm sure you know)
Jigger
I bought 2 units from crew-chief and my grips were instantly hot many thanks. I was at my local dealer and I was going to tell him about your fix and he told me that your heater fix was mentioned at a Northern Ontario Yamaha dealer meeting this week. He's looking at ordering some for his shop. The Yamaha rep had told him that your design works better than the Yamaha updated heaters. (which I'm sure you know)
Jigger
gsxr
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Rode my 2010 xtx Nytro at -34 c , with yamaheater (boost included ) , awesome !!
Froze the day before , -15c. without.
Froze the day before , -15c. without.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
I found that the Yamaheater did help heat up my bars, but once I installed the booster, then my hands actually got hot...thank you for designing this. 
CaptCaper
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Rock
How much more boost does the OEM grip settings get when the YamaHeater is off and boost in on? On the Apex's that is.
How much more boost does the OEM grip settings get when the YamaHeater is off and boost in on? On the Apex's that is.
Rockmeister
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watersuper said:
No contradiction at all.
The simple fact is, the more you load the stator, the shorter the life.
We want to use our stators to power our grips and warm our hands, yet not needlessly.
Pulling more power from the stator that is not needed is pointless & counter-productive.
That is why I don't recommend the Booster if you don't need it.
Rock
Rockmeister
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Some info on the Stator Current Capability:
The Stator/Magneto in the Nytros is usually rated at 32.8A (460W)
(The Apexes are slightly larger yet close.)
You are starting with a 32.8A current supply.
The Major current loads (approximate from service manual) on your sleds are:
EFI 5A
Lighting 10A
Signal 2A
Ignition 10A
Radiator Fan 5A
----------------------
Total Current Draw = 32A
This would appear to leave you with .8A to run your grips.
(And this is what the ECU is programmed to do.)
This gives you 5.6W per grip, not NEARLY enough to keep your hands warm, which is why your hands freeze.
In stock form, once in a while your grips warm up when the radiator fan is off, and almost shut off when the fan is on.
However, a 20% safety margin (10A) is build into the system to help prevent failures. (Very good thing.)
We use up to half (5A) of the safety margin to heat your grips with the YamaHeater.
That makes your grips 45W per grip for a total of 90W, THAT makes your grips nice & WARM.
At the same time, the YamaHeater output with the Booster is current limited to less than 5A, this is to help protect your stator from overload & early failure.
VARIOUS MODS:
Many work by lowering the resistance of the load and therefore greatly increasing the current to the grips.
It does definitely work & many have used it without issue.
There are a couple problems with it.
(Many have worried about damaging the ECU, however I haven't seen or heard of a failed ECU yet.)
The real concern is the stator.
I personally have seen a few stators fail from different mods.
Mainly because the possible current draw is about 14+A with a common mod.
That is well above the 5A or so available for the grips.
It is also well beyond the safe current limit for your stator, making it easy to overload it & cause it to fail.
IE NOT goofproof.
Stators, like any manufactured part, vary widely in how much they can handle, that is why some last, while others fail.
The biggest problem is that any damage caused to the stator is cumulative, it simply keeps adding up until it fails.
Another problem is that the safety margin is not consistent.
It will vary widely from sled to sled.
YAMAHEATER:
The YamaHeater uses your existing grips so you end up with Warm Hands & Pinky's.
(Had the early 06 bars & definitely like having the heated hooks much better now!)
It gives you a High Heat setting that actually works!
(Replaces your current "off" (zero bars) setting.)
On some sleds, they changed the grips to an even colder version (God knows why...)
Those have a booster built into the YamaHeater that makes ALL your settings warmer, including the factory settings.
One major advantage is that the output is current limited to less than 5A max.
This helps protect your Stator against overload and eventual failure.
Your YamaHeater settings are also much more usable, giving you a wide range of settings you can use, from very low to Nice & Warm.
Hope this helps!
Rock
PS If your stator should fail, do not simply replace it with another stock one.
Have it re-built, and ask them to make it tougher, they can usually add 10% to the capability & therefore you have more safety margin available.
(You can't go too much over +10% without having to change other parts on your sled.)
The Stator/Magneto in the Nytros is usually rated at 32.8A (460W)
(The Apexes are slightly larger yet close.)
You are starting with a 32.8A current supply.
The Major current loads (approximate from service manual) on your sleds are:
EFI 5A
Lighting 10A
Signal 2A
Ignition 10A
Radiator Fan 5A
----------------------
Total Current Draw = 32A
This would appear to leave you with .8A to run your grips.
(And this is what the ECU is programmed to do.)
This gives you 5.6W per grip, not NEARLY enough to keep your hands warm, which is why your hands freeze.
In stock form, once in a while your grips warm up when the radiator fan is off, and almost shut off when the fan is on.
However, a 20% safety margin (10A) is build into the system to help prevent failures. (Very good thing.)
We use up to half (5A) of the safety margin to heat your grips with the YamaHeater.
That makes your grips 45W per grip for a total of 90W, THAT makes your grips nice & WARM.
At the same time, the YamaHeater output with the Booster is current limited to less than 5A, this is to help protect your stator from overload & early failure.
VARIOUS MODS:
Many work by lowering the resistance of the load and therefore greatly increasing the current to the grips.
It does definitely work & many have used it without issue.
There are a couple problems with it.
(Many have worried about damaging the ECU, however I haven't seen or heard of a failed ECU yet.)
The real concern is the stator.
I personally have seen a few stators fail from different mods.
Mainly because the possible current draw is about 14+A with a common mod.
That is well above the 5A or so available for the grips.
It is also well beyond the safe current limit for your stator, making it easy to overload it & cause it to fail.
IE NOT goofproof.
Stators, like any manufactured part, vary widely in how much they can handle, that is why some last, while others fail.
The biggest problem is that any damage caused to the stator is cumulative, it simply keeps adding up until it fails.
Another problem is that the safety margin is not consistent.
It will vary widely from sled to sled.
YAMAHEATER:
The YamaHeater uses your existing grips so you end up with Warm Hands & Pinky's.
(Had the early 06 bars & definitely like having the heated hooks much better now!)
It gives you a High Heat setting that actually works!
(Replaces your current "off" (zero bars) setting.)
On some sleds, they changed the grips to an even colder version (God knows why...)
Those have a booster built into the YamaHeater that makes ALL your settings warmer, including the factory settings.
One major advantage is that the output is current limited to less than 5A max.
This helps protect your Stator against overload and eventual failure.
Your YamaHeater settings are also much more usable, giving you a wide range of settings you can use, from very low to Nice & Warm.
Hope this helps!
Rock
PS If your stator should fail, do not simply replace it with another stock one.
Have it re-built, and ask them to make it tougher, they can usually add 10% to the capability & therefore you have more safety margin available.
(You can't go too much over +10% without having to change other parts on your sled.)
Rockmeister
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WE HAVE A WINNER IN THE YAMAHEATER PAY IT FORWARD GIVEAWAY!
The winner is...
*drumroll please*
TY VIP Member KJC63
His name was drawn by one of the cutest little girls at the TY Muni Give-away ride.
Rockmeister
The winner is...
*drumroll please*
TY VIP Member KJC63
His name was drawn by one of the cutest little girls at the TY Muni Give-away ride.
Rockmeister
CaptCaper
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Maybe I'll pass on installing the Booster I got Rock. I don't want even chance straining my stator. The Yamaheater alone still makes it better then it was.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
CaptCaper said:
X2...I haven't ordered 1 but after learning that it strains and can damage my STATOR I'm going to hold off too...they are much better with YAMAHEATER alone...so lets not push our luck!
Thanks Rock
Rockmeister
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CaptCaper said:
Hey Capt!
You will get about 40% more power/heat to the grips on each setting with the Booster.
If you need the Booster, as a general rule it won't hurt anything.
However, if you are simply wanting to have super hot grips, yet the Regular YamaHeater is enough, then it's not a good idea to push it.
The colder bars usually have a higher resistance & therefore draw little current to start with.
Adding the Booster simply gets them to where they should be to start with.
Rock
PS The Apexs have a slightly higher rated Stator so they are able to handle more.
Rockmeister
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Would definitely like feedback from the guys using a Booster!
For example:
What settings do you find you run at the most?
If you have ridden when it was sub-zero F, did they keep up easily & where did you have the bars set to?
Where you able to run some high speed trails where your hands would normally get cold without your YamaHeater/Booster, what setting did you use?
Did your hands stay nice & warm at high speed using your YamaHeater/Booster?
Want to get the Booster ouput fine-tuned so that it makes just enough heat to keep your hands comfortable & warm at -20*F or so, with the bars as high as they will go.
(They shouldn't really feel super hot at this speed in sub-zero temps, yet you should be able to comfortably ride.)
That way the loading is minimized and the heat is maximized.
Rock
For example:
What settings do you find you run at the most?
If you have ridden when it was sub-zero F, did they keep up easily & where did you have the bars set to?
Where you able to run some high speed trails where your hands would normally get cold without your YamaHeater/Booster, what setting did you use?
Did your hands stay nice & warm at high speed using your YamaHeater/Booster?
Want to get the Booster ouput fine-tuned so that it makes just enough heat to keep your hands comfortable & warm at -20*F or so, with the bars as high as they will go.
(They shouldn't really feel super hot at this speed in sub-zero temps, yet you should be able to comfortably ride.)
That way the loading is minimized and the heat is maximized.
Rock
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I noticed this yesterday when I stopped on the trail for a short break. When I restarted the sled to go the green led would flicker between red and green. This was at idle when restarted after break. When I gave it throttle it then went to the normal bright green.
I think I read somewhere this is normal. What do you think? Cooled down engine with a lower idle?
I think I read somewhere this is normal. What do you think? Cooled down engine with a lower idle?
yes its normal it means your idle is slightly on the low side nothing to worry about.
Rockmeister
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CaptCaper said:
Jake is correct, it is nothing major.
The ECU output to the grips is erratic due to the system voltage dropping and your YamaHeater is reacting accordingly.
Would suggest adjusting the WARM idle up a bit until the LED stays steady green in ECU mode, even if it a dimmer green.
That way you know your sled is charging, even at idle.
The MODE LED on your YamaHeater is actually a pretty good indicator of how your charging system is doing.
Your LED is powered by the actual power output to your grips, so if you have little output, the LED will be dimmer, full output, it is brighter.
Rock
