dutchie
Pro
well the wait was well worth it , thanks to those OFT guys for getting me the relocator mod for my nytro mtx
everything kinda went smooth , been at it tonight and everything is done ,
except for the step 24 , adjusting the skis to match the handle bar , i'm having a bitch of a time with it , with the handle bars straight , the ski's aimed to the right , so next i have to adjust the arm , well i can't for the world of me get them jam nuts loose , to the point that the wrench will slip and round off the nuts ,
i took the big nut off the one end and was going to try to pound it out and then see if i could turn them jam nuts , thought better to maybe ask first and see what you guys say
here is what step 24 says to do , it's simple if i could get them bastard nuts loose , maybe heat , don't want to burn my sled down next , whos got a trick on how to get em loose, and should i undo the very bottom jam nut also or just the top one , going to bed and will check in the morning on your advice ,
thanks
NOTE: Installation of the relocator changes the geometry of steering components. It is necessary to adjust the steering relay rod to realign the handlebars with the skis. The steering relay rod is attached to the steering shaft at the bottom of the steering rod, and then runs down to the arm pivot assembly that is bolted into the sub-frame.
Point skis straight forward. Loosen jamb nuts on steering relay rod. While holding skis straight, rotate relay rod until handlebars appear to be aligned with skis. Retorque relay jamb nuts to OEM specs.
everything kinda went smooth , been at it tonight and everything is done ,
except for the step 24 , adjusting the skis to match the handle bar , i'm having a bitch of a time with it , with the handle bars straight , the ski's aimed to the right , so next i have to adjust the arm , well i can't for the world of me get them jam nuts loose , to the point that the wrench will slip and round off the nuts ,
i took the big nut off the one end and was going to try to pound it out and then see if i could turn them jam nuts , thought better to maybe ask first and see what you guys say
here is what step 24 says to do , it's simple if i could get them bastard nuts loose , maybe heat , don't want to burn my sled down next , whos got a trick on how to get em loose, and should i undo the very bottom jam nut also or just the top one , going to bed and will check in the morning on your advice ,
thanks
NOTE: Installation of the relocator changes the geometry of steering components. It is necessary to adjust the steering relay rod to realign the handlebars with the skis. The steering relay rod is attached to the steering shaft at the bottom of the steering rod, and then runs down to the arm pivot assembly that is bolted into the sub-frame.
Point skis straight forward. Loosen jamb nuts on steering relay rod. While holding skis straight, rotate relay rod until handlebars appear to be aligned with skis. Retorque relay jamb nuts to OEM specs.
I used a line wrench on it. I think I removed the nose plastic to do this but it was awhile ago.
dutchie
Pro
Hey thanks , never even crossed my mind to try that
Loosen the jamb nut on the front of the drag link where it mounts to the steering post. Separate the rod end joint from the steering post and turn it in two full turns. Re-assemble everything and the handlebars should be straight to the skis.
Scott
Scott
dutchie
Pro
Scott , already thought of that , got the front jam but loose after going all over the place for a crowsfoot that would fit
Still have not got the bottom one off as not enough room for the crowsfoot to fit
So next I went and took out cotter pin and removed that nut with the same ideal that I"ll then just screw the end in a couple times and that should bring the skies close enough like you say
Only trouble is I pounded on that nut and bolt to get it to come out and it didn"t move any at all , was wondering if they pressure fit them in
Was even thinking about just doing the adjustment at the skies themselves , but in my opinion would be two much thread showing and would be weak , better to have as much of them threads up inside the arm at least at the skis
Kinda stuck on what to do next , do you think adding a little torch heat to that bolt will loosen it up some or should I just take off headlights and air box for more room to get at the bottom
Like you the easy and fast fix would be that bolt come out and then just turn it in a couple times , kinda pissed and near ends wit , everything of yours went smooth and this adjust is a real pain in the #*$&@
Taking a break now and not sure my next plan of attack on something that should of been simple
Still have not got the bottom one off as not enough room for the crowsfoot to fit
So next I went and took out cotter pin and removed that nut with the same ideal that I"ll then just screw the end in a couple times and that should bring the skies close enough like you say
Only trouble is I pounded on that nut and bolt to get it to come out and it didn"t move any at all , was wondering if they pressure fit them in
Was even thinking about just doing the adjustment at the skies themselves , but in my opinion would be two much thread showing and would be weak , better to have as much of them threads up inside the arm at least at the skis
Kinda stuck on what to do next , do you think adding a little torch heat to that bolt will loosen it up some or should I just take off headlights and air box for more room to get at the bottom
Like you the easy and fast fix would be that bolt come out and then just turn it in a couple times , kinda pissed and near ends wit , everything of yours went smooth and this adjust is a real pain in the #*$&@
Taking a break now and not sure my next plan of attack on something that should of been simple
It is a taper fit. The easyest way is a air hammer to the top. But also a wedge of some sort on the bottom between the joint and plate then with the nut backed out flush with the top a good strike with a hammer should pop it.
dutchie
Pro
ricofmn
yep that would be the best way for sure , only me no air hammer or wedge ,
talked to scott on the phone and he told a little trick with 2 screwdrivers side by side , i gave that a go and still no luck , that SOB taper spindle is in good and hard ,
i'm going to load it in my truck and take it to the dealer to remove that tapered bolt ,
i might just try to find a place that has them wedges for sale first , they the same as whats used for removing the old ball joints from trucks , only smaller , i don't think i'll find one as the town i live in is small and i had a hard enough job trying to get a crowsfoot that would work
yep that would be the best way for sure , only me no air hammer or wedge ,
talked to scott on the phone and he told a little trick with 2 screwdrivers side by side , i gave that a go and still no luck , that SOB taper spindle is in good and hard ,
i'm going to load it in my truck and take it to the dealer to remove that tapered bolt ,
i might just try to find a place that has them wedges for sale first , they the same as whats used for removing the old ball joints from trucks , only smaller , i don't think i'll find one as the town i live in is small and i had a hard enough job trying to get a crowsfoot that would work
judger101
Expert
is it odd to not have to adjust ski alignment when installing oft relocator? when i installed mine my skis were still straight?
judger101 said:
It's not really possible. The top of the post goes forward, the bottom goes back. So the rod has to be shortened to make up the difference.
judger101
Expert
hmm ill have to take a look at that. i didnt really think it looked off, maybe i need to get my eyes checked!
once you get it pressed out (i have an air hammer) how do you get it pressed in again? do the threads show enough so you can suck it back through with the nut?
once you get it pressed out (i have an air hammer) how do you get it pressed in again? do the threads show enough so you can suck it back through with the nut?
judger101 said:
Yes, it goes together easy. Just hold it up and the taper keeps it from spining while you tighten it.
judger101
Expert
thanks
dutchie
Pro
Right tool for the right job , took more time to unload it then it did to get it out , done now and off to test this mod and I shimmed my skies a wee bit , should be a joy to handle now
I think I would like to adjust that strap underneath to help me get the nose up and do a little cat walking , is it you shorten it one hole or let it out one hole , front skies come up now easy but only off the ground , even over small jumps she wants to go down ,
Anyone do anything else other then adding a turbo
I think I would like to adjust that strap underneath to help me get the nose up and do a little cat walking , is it you shorten it one hole or let it out one hole , front skies come up now easy but only off the ground , even over small jumps she wants to go down ,
Anyone do anything else other then adding a turbo
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
what skid do you have?
dutchie
Pro
Stock skid on a 2010 162 track , should I let some air pressure out of the front fox float and let the strap down one notch , my back shock has 160 psi in it
Must be a little trick to setting these sleds up with air pressure and setting the track up other then what factory specs are
She runs great and handles good , just would like to be able to get the nose up some
Must be a little trick to setting these sleds up with air pressure and setting the track up other then what factory specs are
She runs great and handles good , just would like to be able to get the nose up some
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