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REAR SUSPENSION REMOVAL

cannondale27

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Feb 20, 2007
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Wow you guys are in for a treat. Got to be the easiest suspension to remove and work on ever! Will make a report and pics after work but I like what I found.
 

Steve, you can be my wrench at the track ;)
 
Yes finally got under mine yesterday to pick the track and it is a world of diff to the Apex.
 
I removed the idlers and spring clip and two rear bolts and it basicly fell out! All bolts wer well Loctited and tight or had Nylock nuts on them. If not completely removing the bolts to reloctite I would leave them alone or just paint mark them to see if they loosen. I would take the chance since was well put together. Only Chinese bearings I found are on Upper wheels. You will grow to hate those bearings. Phazer has same 6006 bearing and even with NTK they just dont last.Example:
 

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The TriHub has the NSK bearings also. Maybe they will last? It is very light compared to 4 wheel kit.
 

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This is the 3 way adjustable coupler block. Looks like it should be 4 position but the #1 is repeated. Plenty of Loctite.
 

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The whole skid. I was at meetings all night after work dealing with the state of WI Auditing Non Profits use of raffles and such. Pretty important issue for us Snowmobile Clubs! So I didnt get it back together so any questions or suggestions please feel free to post before its back in.
 

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Looks like Larson racing. If so its like 300 plus shipping.

Subaru2006
 
Very cool Steve!

Are the grease zerks easy to get at? Do you see a need for more grease somewhere/anywhere?
 
Easy and none of the zerks leak out the sides. I did find one issue I didnt notice. Cant believe it but once again cat has used too short of a bolt for a Nylock nut. The spring loops. Bolt is to short for the Nylock to catch. This will be a recall. In meantime Loctite them since there is none or get a different bolt.
 

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Another view. Loctite or replace these now.

4th wheel kit works great. Plenty of adjustment for track and is nice with adjuster on outside for easy access. Only negative of that is it could get caught on something and bent or get weeds and grass caught on it. No biggie. Skid goes back in as easy as it comes out. A real treat and ver self explanatory. About only tip is to leave outside wheels off till skid in and use a 7/8 box wrench to hold the pivot at rear bolt. Simple as it gets.
 

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Steve,

Do the Larson supplied wheels use the same bearing ID and width? I'd like to use Dean's kit but want to retain the 8" wheel size on the XTX.

Do you have bearing size or better yet, the bearing numbers for the rear wheels? Upper wheels?

Thank you
 
No they dont use the same small bearings as stock. I believe they are 6205's? I dont know if he offers a kit for the XTX's.
 
Steve, thank you for the inspiration that this would be easy. It's the first time I've removed a skid by myself. At first I couldn't figure out what I needed to hold the special nut on the back side of the rear bolts, but it's just a 7/8" open end.

Question on idler bearings, they all spin just fine, but some are very quiet and don't spin long, and a few others you can hear the bearing spinning, almost like they're dry and you can hear the balls, are those shot even though they spin very freely?
 


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