REAR SUSPENSION REMOVAL

[cannondale27]

Steve, thank you for the inspiration that this would be easy. It's the first time I've removed a skid by myself. At first I couldn't figure out what I needed to hold the special nut on the back side of the rear bolts, but it's just a 7/8" open end.

Question on idler bearings, they all spin just fine, but some are very quiet and don't spin long, and a few others you can hear the bearing spinning, almost like they're dry and you can hear the balls, are those shot even though they spin very freely?

I would pop the seals on all. If they are rusty inside yes replace the bearing. If not just clean and regrease. All my wheels lasted 8000mi doing this every spring. Did replace 2 because studs chunked the rubber though.

 

[Beerman]

Steve, et all, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but having a hell of a time getting the skid back in. I struggled for over 2 hours last night and decided to stop and try again today. I have a buddy coming over later to help, maybe the 2nd set of hands will help.

Per Drantrell's recommendation, I have the torsion springs rotated to the rear, and even used a strap to compress the rear shock. Been trying the get the front arms on the cross bar but without success.

Any suggestions?

 

[cannondale27]

Steve, et all, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but having a hell of a time getting the skid back in. I struggled for over 2 hours last night and decided to stop and try again today. I have a buddy coming over later to help, maybe the 2nd set of hands will help.

Per Drantrell's recommendation, I have the torsion springs rotated to the rear, and even used a strap to compress the rear shock. Been trying the get the front arms on the cross bar but without success.

Any suggestions?

View attachment 134228 View attachment 134229

I lay on ground and push with my foot against one of the skid wheels. I also cock the track and skid to the right and get skid on left first then go to right and get it on right.

 

[cannondale27]

Rest the torsions on front skid arm.

 

[FrozenTows4]

Rest the torsions on front skid arm.

Yep, works great. Also, may want to lower the rear, a little, so your not tugging, pulling, and lifting the weight of the track. Let gravity work for you, rather than against you, as much as possible. You'll find the sweet spot.
No matter what, it's till a bit of a wrestle. Skid comes out much easier than it goes in. But, each time it gets easier.

 

[PAvector]

It sometimes helps to have a second person to pull the track back or open on command.

 

[Beerman]

I'm not sure what we were doing wrong. But BlueDave came over too and suggested we just try putting the skid in the track first and then try to get the front arms on the cross bar. Bingo. That method took us a grand total of 10 mins. Wish I had thought to try that during the 3 hour struggle

Regardless, thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

[cannondale27]

I'm not sure what we were doing wrong. But BlueDave came over too and suggested we just try putting the skid in the track first and then try to get the front arms on the cross bar. Bingo. That method took us a grand total of 10 mins. Wish I had thought to try that during the 3 hour struggle

Regardless, thanks for the help and suggestions.

Oh! I am sorry just assumed skid was in the track. Someone needs a photographer that has two hands free to take pics of process or a video. As you know if doing it both hands are taken.

 

[Beerman]

LOL, Well, now I know what I was doing wrong and why everyone said "it's easy, just get the front in first" - I'm not gonna tell my buddy Joe. But Blue Dave might see this post and laugh. After struggling for over 2 hours myself, when Joe came over I said no less than 4 times "dude, everyone, including the guru Cannondale said start with the front, look, here's his post on TY". Too funny.

The good news is that I'm finally tackling things I was never willing to myself with all previous sleds, so I'm learning a lot.

 

[Beerman]

I should say, I searched high and low for a video of the reinstall, I found a great one for the removal, but nothing for a Procross going back in. Maybe I need to do that part next year.

 

[cannondale27]

I should say, I searched high and low for a video of the reinstall, I found a great one for the removal, but nothing for a Procross going back in. Maybe I need to do that part next year.

Do it now! I am just kidding Beerman if its in there leave it! It is much easier than others but so is changing a diaper on a baby. Its easy but not fun at all!

 

[srvfan]

what is the trick to get the upper idlers off the shaft in order to grease them they do not slide right off after removing the aluminum mount brackets like the rest do...… Also I screwed up when I repacked all the rest of them I grabbed the wrong grease gun and filled them with marine grade grease good protection against water etc but this stuff is thick. not sure if too thick for that application at low temps ???? I'll leave them as is if you guy think there's no down side other then a bit of extra drag

 

[FrozenTows4]

what is the trick to get the upper idlers off the shaft in order to grease them they do not slide right off after removing the aluminum mount brackets like the rest do...… Also I screwed up when I repacked all the rest of them I grabbed the wrong grease gun and filled them with marine grade grease good protection against water etc but this stuff is thick. not sure if too thick for that application at low temps ???? I'll leave them as is if you guy think there's no down side other then a bit of extra drag

No getting the uppers off without the right puller or using a flat punch on the Inner Race.
I bought the puller. Makes skid frame maintenance much simpler.
IMO, the marine grease will be fine. Not the most correct answer, but should work. I like either Mobil 1 synthetic or ProLong EP2. I have not heard of bearing failure due to slightly thick grease. Bearing failure comes from lack of maintenance, period.

 

[Sevey]

If you have a shop press you can take apart the rear scissor part of the skid and place it in the press and take them off that way. Did it the other night on my friends sled. Worked fine. Using a puch or a bar on the inner race can be tricky and is a bit barbaric.

Have worked on a '14 and the idlers where on super tight. This sled was a '16 and they were not on there very tight at all. Cat has done some recalibrating.
When reinstalling - used a small section of pipe that was the correct size to slide over the end and tap them onto the shaft.

As for the grease- unless you are in the Northwest Territories you will be alright. The grease will warm up after a few revolutions and be good.
MS

 

[Mototown]

Loosen rear track adjusters all the way . Take the front scissor stops off the rails suspension . Hook front A arm in (with the rear of tunnel about 4-5 ' in air ) , drop rear of tunnel close to ride height. Line up rear bolts & tighten . Put stops back in .