poll about evac yea or nea

curious how many are running a filter kit with or without an evac set-up.

I really don't want to install something that will cause me grief during the riding season.

I also need to completely understnad something before I install it so I know what I am dealing with.

I have read just about every post in this forum and none of it is crystal clear yet. I have the big picture but why are some freezing up and some are not.

If you had the kit to install agian would you add the evac? Have any of you taken the evac part off after putting on some miles?

Which evac install is considered to be the best?

Thanks for your input.

Bob

diddo , i never did mine yet as wandering what is the best. would be nice getting rid of the smell of oil vapors from under hood when its running

One more time!

The evac makes 1.5 to 2 more HP everywhere in the powercurve. I couldn't vote because I don't own an RX1. Regardless, if I did own an RX1, I would run the evac.

These freeze ups exist even with the stock airbox. This is not a problem or function associate with my air kits. Yamaha's fix was to cut a 2 inch slice in the hose at the lowest point of the rubber hose. In my opinion, this will only make a mess out of your bellypans. Taking a PCV (one way) valve and putting it at the bottom of what would be the drain, will eliminate the need for having to remember to drain the evac hoses. Keep in mind that in extreme cold conditions, it is still possible to freeze up this way but at least it won't have enough condensation in the hoses to completely freeze shut.

Screw it, I am going to vote!

Freddie

Thanks for putting this poll up BossRX1...good idea!

Freddie

Maybe we could run the drain like an anti-freeze dripper that the grass draggers use? I opted to not use one - mainly because I didn't want to at this point in time. But it sounds like 10-$20/HP which is extremely thrifty.

Running with evac, but have a quick little question that perhaps is answered somewhere.

How can Evac add 1.5-2 hp?

I have not added the evac yet, but I plan to very soon. After reading several post on this topic I think I'm going to leave the black plastic catch can in place (should catch most of the moisture) and run the hosing to the filters without the drain (hate the thought of having to drain it every 50 miles) and install a breather in the oil fill plug hole on top of the valve cover. If the evac becomes plugged, crank case pressure can still escape out the breather. Hope they both don't freeze! :shock:

Him said:

Running with evac, but have a quick little question that perhaps is answered somewhere.

How can Evac add 1.5-2 hp?

Click to expand...

Good question Him! Thanks for asking. The evac kit evacuates the somewhat equivalent to compression that is on top of the pistons from the underside. Being that the crankcase us a much larger area thean the combustion chambers, you naturally don't have the same "jake brake" effect that compression provides but nonethell, removing the air from the underside of the pistons allows the angine to turn over easier thereby allowing the engine make more HP. ON our Pro Stock motorcycles engines we use and actual electric pump as an evac pump. On our 310 to 330 HP Pro Stock motorcycle engines, this electric evac pumps make anywhere from 15 to 24 more HP! Well worth it for sure!

Hope this explains the benefit of the evac. Nice thing about they way we all do the evacs on the RX1, is that it adds very little weight. The elctrics pumps can run anywhere from 15 to 25 pounds. But, being that the current Pro Stock motorcycle riders are all anorexic and have no asses, means that they have to add weight anyways to make minimum weight.

Freddie Klies
www.easterncycleperf.com

Has anyone actually measured the vacuum level that is being created by the evac connection? As Freddie points out, Pro stock motorcycles (and cars) use pumps to pull a vacuum on the crankcase which does two things: reduces the amount of air the pistons must pump in the crankcase and causes a higher differential pressure between the combustion chamber and the crankcase thereby causing the rings to seal better. It is hard to believe that hooking the crankcase vent to the air filters would cause any significant evacuation of the crankcase. To get a significant amount of evacuation you would need the airfilters to be fairly restrictive. Just my $0.02.

I haven't Jim.

Happy Holidays!

Freddie

Ok could someone post the parts and install proceedure of the EVAC system. I'm not sure as of yet, I'm alittle hesitant about the excess moisture being diverted directly back into the engine. Freddie any thoughts??

Black 1000 said:

Ok could someone post the parts and install proceedure of the EVAC system. I'm not sure as of yet, I'm alittle hesitant about the excess moisture being diverted directly back into the engine. Freddie any thoughts??

Click to expand...

Even with the stock airbox, the moisture will still be diverted back into the engine. Heating and cooling in an oxygen and moisture rich environment creates condensation.

What you need to purchase are 2 - 3/4" elbows, 2 - 3/4" "T's", 2 - 3/4" ID rubber grommets and about 3 to 4 feet of 3/4" ID hose in your choice of color. What I do is, I took an old socket that mic's just under the diameter of the groove on the grommets in an effort to provide a very slight interefence fit to the elbow. I then sharpened it to a razor edge on my lathe, (a belt sander or bench grinder will do as well) I then take a small block of wood and put it behind and inside the air filters. I then put a short extension into the sharpened socket and wack it with a hammer against the block of wood. Performing the hole mod in this manner produces an extremely clean cut hole with no burrs. It work very well.

Now insert your rubber grommets into the holes in each filter, next insert the 90 degree elbows in a manner so they face each other. Next, install the filters to the carbs and put the "T" in place for mockup and measure from the elbow to the "T". Cut 2 pieces of hose and slide everything together. The "T" will be standing verical just as it is typed here. Cut another piece of hose and extended it down long enough to reach about 1/2" from halway down the front of the battery. Install the second "T" laying on its side. (I--) Next, insert the top extension of the "T" into the hose from the other "T". Cut another piece of hose long enough to extend down infront of the battery, approximately 1 or 2 inches below the battery. Insert a one way PCV valve into the lower end of the hose and slide the other end onto the "T". Next you will cut a piece of hose long enough to reach from the steel tube to the remaining extension of the "T". There is no need to use hoseclamps, but I have noticed that some riders use ty-wraps (zip ties) at every junction. It is not an absolute requirement however.

This should get you rockin' and rollin"!

Good luck!

Freddie Klies
www.easterncycleperf.com