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What's the skinny on the "Timing key"?

Frostbite

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Apr 16, 2003
Messages
1,897
Location
Eastern Washington- Cheney
I keep reading about people having this "timing key"? I assume it is used to advance the timing a bit? This leaves me with several questions.

Who sells them?
How much are they?
How easy are they to install?
What do those of you who are using them think of the results?

Frostbite
 

Timming key?? Man i dont know? I think you have to slot the cam gears to get more or less timming out of the Rx1. Or maybe a aftermarket controler? MSD?
 
Frostbite said:
I keep reading about people having this "timing key"? I assume it is used to advance the timing a bit? This leaves me with several questions.

Who sells them?
How much are they?
How easy are they to install?
What do those of you who are using them think of the results?

Frostbite
Woodts has been using them all year in the apex/attaks 3 degrees of advance and 91 octane min. for fuel,the key is cheap like 15 bucks to buy,i think hauck has them,but to install them on the rx1 not sure how much time,on the apex just take right side panel off remove oil bag i think take off stater cover and remove stock one and replace w/new it is offset in 1.5,2,and 3 degrees of advance.
 
Man i did not know this!! I need one to pull a little timming out for boost!

Skydog
 
What about on an RX-1?

Does one have to crack into the engine cases to get to where it's installed?

How technical of a job is it to do?

Hey, I'll run 91 octane for a couple of H.P.

Tell us more.......................

Frostbite
 
Ok, I can do all that.

I don't see it on Hauck's web site. I do see some cams for $129 that give you about 4-5 hp. but no timing keys.

What exactly does this "key" do?

And why do I want to install it?

Are there any down side to it?

Frostbite
 
Timing Key

Hi Guys!

I've done it!

Here goes:

1) Pull the right side panel off
2) Remove Oil tank mounting screws to billet rail on top. Then bottom right tank mounting screw.
3) Disconnect oil line to tank on top "t".
4) Use a piece of wire to hang the tank off your brake caliper etc.
5) Remove timing cover(if you're carefull - you can save the gasket!)
6) Use a puller and pre-load flywheel.
7) Hit with a hammer - it should come off easy(first or second - if not preload a bit more - you don't want to warp/distort the flywheel)
8) Notice the starter gears - they could fall off - but they only go one way anyway.
9) change the key(the Hauck keys are made in 3 & 5 degree)
3 gives about 4hp and 5 gives about 5hp!
10) Install key with machined side to the right!
11) Rotate flywheel to the left(there should be a gap on the left side of the key if properly installed)
12) re-install flywheel - and re-tighten to spec. (Re-check gap to make sure nothing moved! I put a little grease on the washer to help assure the flywheel did not move while I tightened it)
13) re install in reverse order!
14) One of the longer cover screws is on the mid height rear location and all the stainless ones are on the bottom.

You will immediately notice improved throttle response and low end acceleration improvements!

I use 89 octane, needles lifted one clip positon and 170 mains currently- alltough I feel that 172.5's would be a better choice for sustained high speed operation in -20 to -25 Celsius weather.

Bare in mind - I vent my carburators in my handlebars and you need to run 2-3 sizes richer if you do this.(I gained 2mph on radar in 2 minutes with this trick alone)!

So if any of you have suggestions - I'm all ears(to try to make sled quicker yet!) :4STroke:
 
Re: Timing Key

Grunter said:
Hi Guys!

I've done it!

Here goes:

1) Pull the right side panel off
2) Remove Oil tank mounting screws to billet rail on top. Then bottom right tank mounting screw.
3) Disconnect oil line to tank on top "t".
4) Use a piece of wire to hang the tank off your brake caliper etc.
5) Remove timing cover(if you're carefull - you can save the gasket!)
6) Use a puller and pre-load flywheel.
7) Hit with a hammer - it should come off easy(first or second - if not preload a bit more - you don't want to warp/distort the flywheel)
8) Notice the starter gears - they could fall off - but they only go one way anyway.
9) change the key(the Hauck keys are made in 3 & 5 degree)
3 gives about 4hp and 5 gives about 5hp!
10) Install key with machined side to the right!
11) Rotate flywheel to the left(there should be a gap on the left side of the key if properly installed)
12) re-install flywheel - and re-tighten to spec. (Re-check gap to make sure nothing moved! I put a little grease on the washer to help assure the flywheel did not move while I tightened it)
13) re install in reverse order!
14) One of the longer cover screws is on the mid height rear location and all the stainless ones are on the bottom.

You will immediately notice improved throttle response and low end acceleration improvements!

I use 89 octane, needles lifted one clip positon and 170 mains currently- alltough I feel that 172.5's would be a better choice for sustained high speed operation in -20 to -25 Celsius weather.

Bare in mind - I vent my carburators in my handlebars and you need to run 2-3 sizes richer if you do this.(I gained 2mph on radar in 2 minutes with this trick alone)!

So if any of you have suggestions - I'm all ears(to try to make sled quicker yet!) :4STroke:


Nice ;)! :flag: One thing for you TURBO!! :flag: ;)!
 
Key for turbo!

Hi skydog!

You could turn this around - machined side the other way and rotate your flywheel towards front to back off the timing!

Additionally!!!

If any of you are using or want to try the Klotz fuel additive(It's said to give 7% more power) you need to do the same as if you would have a turbo(back up the timing)

I stayed with 89 Octane and have had no problem! (Just thought I'd share!)
 


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