SPARK PLUGS CR9EK?

Yes, many are running them as well as the colder cr10ek like I am.
 
It is commonly know within the performance industry that the coldest sparkplug that the ignition will fire will produce the most horsepower when it is properly jetted. The dual tip offers a better flame front for additional igniting of more fuel.
 
Correctly if I am wrong but I believe the increase in power is due to the slight increase in compression with the CR10EK plug.
 
O.K., You're wrong !!!!!!!! :lol:

The CR10EK is simply the next range colder plug. Both are from NGK and look identical upon physical inspection.
 
Buddah2, I don't think RX Warrior was refering to the 9 vs. 10 but the EK Dual electrode plug compared to the stock single electrode.
 
OOPS! My Bad!!!! :lol:
 
It is commonly known within the performance industry that the coldest sparkplug that the ignition will fire will produce the most horsepower when it is properly jetted. The dual tip offers a better flame front for additional igniting of more fuel
Click to expand...

There are some holes in your theory, I disagree and here is why.

The term spark Plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the cumbustion chamber to the engine head, wheather the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower, or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500-850 degrees C.
When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (Which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the factory.

It is not untill you increase compression, increase timing, add nitrous, supercharger or turbo charger that you need to start reducing spark plug heat range.

So if you install a colder spark plugs in a relativly stock engine you will only shorten the life of the plugs, since fouling is inevedible, if the plug temp falls below what is necessary to burn off deposits.

I have found that, factory plug specs are made to run in the middle of the above temp spec so you have room for either extreme of temp changes, because air temp affects combustion temps.

There are two theorys when it comes to making power, lean is mean and rich is a bitch.

If you can burn more fuel in a shorter amount of time you can increase power, I like to be on the rich side and go to a HOTTER Plug.

Some like to go lean and go to a COLDER Plug.

Lean air fuel ratios increase combustion temps so a colder plug is necessary to prevent detonation.

I can go on and on but I don't want to bore you.
 
Very interesting stuff. But I simply cut and pasted Freddies response from another post. I can see both points of view.
 
I read all that and now I have a headache. Would I be wise to put the more expensive dual electrode plugs in my stock machine? I have fouled plugs during cold starts and would be happy if this helps if nothing else. You guys know your s%@t. I'll look here before I ask anywhere else.
 
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