FX Nytro Setting info that may help!!

MrSled said:

Also when setting you floats the sled front has to be hanging to set and check pressure.

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This is great info in general but I'm just wondeirng about the quoted bit in particular.

Why does it not say this anywhere in the manual with regards to these Fox Floats? It is something I have read from day one on this site but have never been told why.

One other thing you hit on that I'm going to try is bar position. You are right, to get the most height, mine are forward which may be leading to some horrible darting I'm getting, particullarly when momentem changes (cornering). I have a riser on order and I'll be setting the bars back a little to see if this helps.

ONe thing I will note, is I'm a heavy rider. Pushing 300 before gear. I have found on my RTX that I bottom no more with the front shock preload on full soft then I did with it full stiff. If anything, at full soft the skid is more compliant and not as hard on the feet.

That I am not sure why its no in the manual but the reason to set them unloaded or hanging to get the pressure set correctly. There is really no good way to get them even.

More on the floats:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=44798

Also, check your bars: There is a small dot on the handle bars, Near left side of your riser, make sure that dot is in between the holder / clamps, and the riser block. Bar placemant is very important on these sleds.There are also dots also on the handle bars for placement of the handguard mounts.

Why is it so important?

position of the bars controls everything, to far forward or back and your gonna fight with handling. the dot isn't there for looks.

Put on 100miles on after changing a bunch of things. Pulled up front strap 2 holes, rear strap 1 hole to move rear coupling arm closer to coupling blocks. set compression on rear shock on 3 for starters, aligned skis, which were way off.1/4" to out like MR. Sled said. Turned rubber stopper around on skis to bring tips up, move the wider spindle bushing to outside and narrow one to the inside. Set floats also at 55psi. Ran lots of groomed ditches with nice approaches for testing bottoming and lots of 90 degree turns to test cornering. I could not believe the difference these changes made for the good. I was bottoming slightly so I went 3 clicks harder on the rear shock and the bottoming was gone. The tail kicking was virtually gone. Cornering was improved by 90% IMO This was by far the most fun I had on this sled yet. Befor these adjustments I was only having fun running straight lines and jumping. The rear suspension is so simular to my SC-4 on my old Rev with alot more tunabilty. It now rides as nice if not better then that with alot more backbone for the the big stuff

I don't understand why the Floats need to be set withthe sled hanging? I would think that air pressure is air pressure. The air bags in my semi have a gauge, and unless I add air to them the pressure is the same loaded or unloaded. I would think that as long as they are set evenly, whats in a number??

What is the procedure for checking the ski alignment to the track??

I would guess that the biggest reason for hanging the floats for setting is probably because of problems with uneven floors. If you have a 1/4" or better dip on 1 ski, it would probably affect the pressure in the one shock. Just a guess.

the reason is that when your sled is on the ground your shocks are lifting the sled which is weight which compresses your shocks and such your air pressure in your shock ... when hanging the shocks arent carrying the sled.. if its on the ground you will get approx 15-20psi more reading in each shock

I adjusted the bars back on mine and agree they were a big improvement on how sled handles. I also adjusted toe out for 1/8", widened ski stance via bushings, and set up front suspension. I had a blast yesterday and sled FINALLY handled great!

As for the floats, try setting them for 50 psi with front end off of ground, then lower sled and see what your gauge will read. I'm guessing indicated pressure will increase a few psi. Just be aware of this if you are going to be adjusting it while out on the trail. Try to keep things consistent. either always measure with it unloaded or always measure it on the ground. I doubt guys that run air shocks in their trucks lift their truck everytime they make an adjustment. For the record, I don't own fox floats, but pneumatics is pneumatics.

I did read in SnowTech that the Yami guys suggest checking the pressure with the skis hanging. It is not that big of a deal, just hook up the pump, grab the bars, yank to the side, and have your buddy read what the pressure is.

Could someone answer where you measure your toe out. Do you guys go off the carbide runner studs? or do you scale it ski tip to ski tip the best you can? I'm stupid on this one.

Front tips should be out 1/4" more then the rear as you have shown in the DWG.