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Putting your snowmobile away for the season .

deerhunter1

Extreme
Joined
Jan 21, 2009
Messages
61
Location
CT
I am new here and new to four cycle .What do you do at the end of the season ? I normaly run the gas out of the carbs drop a couple of drops of oil down the plugs and am good to go the next year.Any thing differnt?
STEVE
 

deerhunter1 please add your location to your profile as per site rules.

1. Pour a bottle of Sea Foam into the tank (we don't have ethanol gas up here if you do see Sled Dog's solution below)
2. Run for a while to get the Sea Foam into the entire fuel system.
3. Remove the battery and place it on a battery tender for the summer.
4. Put the cover on and lock the shed until December.
 
Not if your running ethanol fuel. Go get some aviation fuel (still has lead) fill it up run it until you are sure it is running on the aviation fuel shut it off and wait till next fall.
 
I would recomend that you drain the fuel out of the carbs after you run it with some kind of fuel stablizer in it. G.B.
 
Thanks
I did run stabel in it the last time I rode .I also updated my profile will see if it shows up If not i am from CT and will try again .
STEVE
 
Nothing grows with lead in it its a poison thats why in the past it was never a problem. The gas in the past had lead in it.
 
My seasonal storage:

1) Empty gas from tank and drain carbs (Plastic gas tanks I empty but the metal gas tanks on my motorcycles get Sta-Bil since they should not be left dry).
2) Put cap-full of fresh semi-synthetic oil in each cylinder.
3) Remove battery and store in cool dry basement (only putting on tender for a few days each month).
4) Jack up sled and store on blocks so suspension is free hanging.
5) Hit every grease zerk with multi-use grease.
6) Remove belt from clutches and spare belt from holder and let sit so they are not constantly in the same shape.
7) Wash and Wax entire sled and cover.

I do not change the oil before storage, some do but I feel it is a complete waste of time and money. I do however change it at the beginning of the winter season. Also I do not start it at all over the summer, this does no good and only creates useless condensation in the engine that will turn to rust. Every one of my last sleds had over 8,000 miles before I sold them with zero engine problems, so this storage process has worked very well for me.
 
I always try to stay away from stabil. When I used it in the past the gas was always bad by the fall. I had heard that the stabil ends up making it's way to the top and sits on top of the fuel. Seafoam has been the best that I have found.
 
RedRocket said:
My seasonal storage:

1) Empty gas from tank and drain carbs (Plastic gas tanks I empty but the metal gas tanks on my motorcycles get Sta-Bil since they should not be left dry).
2) Put cap-full of fresh semi-synthetic oil in each cylinder.
3) Remove battery and store in cool dry basement (only putting on tender for a few days each month).
4) Jack up sled and store on blocks so suspension is free hanging.
5) Hit every grease zerk with multi-use grease.
6) Remove belt from clutches and spare belt from holder and let sit so they are not constantly in the same shape.
7) Wash and Wax entire sled and cover.

I do not change the oil before storage, some do but I feel it is a complete waste of time and money. I do however change it at the beginning of the winter season. Also I do not start it at all over the summer, this does no good and only creates useless condensation in the engine that will turn to rust. Every one of my last sleds had over 8,000 miles before I sold them with zero engine problems, so this storage process has worked very well for me.


I agree with everything but changing the oil. I always change at the end of the season. Old oil is real acidic. Some will say moisture will accumulate in the summer. I would rather have fresh oil in and then when it snows next season your ready to go. Who nows which is correct, it's like which oil should you use. You will get 1000's of opinions.
 
pooner said:
RedRocket said:
My seasonal storage:

1) Empty gas from tank and drain carbs (Plastic gas tanks I empty but the metal gas tanks on my motorcycles get Sta-Bil since they should not be left dry).
2) Put cap-full of fresh semi-synthetic oil in each cylinder.
3) Remove battery and store in cool dry basement (only putting on tender for a few days each month).
4) Jack up sled and store on blocks so suspension is free hanging.
5) Hit every grease zerk with multi-use grease.
6) Remove belt from clutches and spare belt from holder and let sit so they are not constantly in the same shape.
7) Wash and Wax entire sled and cover.

I do not change the oil before storage, some do but I feel it is a complete waste of time and money. I do however change it at the beginning of the winter season. Also I do not start it at all over the summer, this does no good and only creates useless condensation in the engine that will turn to rust. Every one of my last sleds had over 8,000 miles before I sold them with zero engine problems, so this storage process has worked very well for me.


I agree with everything but changing the oil. I always change at the end of the season. Old oil is real acidic. Some will say moisture will accumulate in the summer. I would rather have fresh oil in and then when it snows next season your ready to go. Who nows which is correct, it's like which oil should you use. You will get 1000's of opinions.

I also like to take WD-40 and spray the entire engine bay, front suspension, track/studs, and skid frame, have done this for years and all the alum. parts stay corrosion free.
:4STroke: :yam: :rocks:
 
RSVECTORFREAK said:
Yamaha suggests that you change you oil at the end of the season prior to storage...

Bingo, to not change your oil prior to storage is too let your engine sit in used acidic dirty oil letting some minute particulates settle where it should not have. Thats why Yamaha suggests to change prior to storage.
 
Sled Dog said:
RSVECTORFREAK said:
Yamaha suggests that you change you oil at the end of the season prior to storage...

Bingo, to not change your oil prior to storage is too let your engine sit in used acidic dirty oil letting some minute particulates settle where it should not have. Thats why Yamaha suggests to change prior to storage.

Exactly what part of your engine is sitting in old oil? This is a dry sump oil system which means the oil stays in the tank and not the engine. Yes old oil is old oil which is why I change it first thing in the winter when pulling it out of storage. Changing the oil in the spring, letting it sit for 6-8 months and then running it for 2000-3000 miles before changing it is just not right. Yeah you could change it in the spring before storage then again in the winter before riding but that just seems like a waste of oil, money, and time.

To each his own..
 
Queston here while we're on the subject: Should I let the dealer change and lube my new sled since I'm do for my first oil change? Or for that matter prepare my sled for the off season? Just wondering if I do it myself and anything bad (God forbid)should happen to my sled if I would still be covered under warranty. I made a trip to my closest Yamaha dealer and he said with Yamalube Synthetic my oil change and lube will be $175 ($70 per hour for anything else). Haven't asked around for prices at other shops and I forgot to ask him about warranty issue. I need to put the sled away for the season myself by the looks of the weather forecast this next week and I've been paying close attention to this post. Fourstroke maintenance is new to me and my buddies don't have any answers to help since they all have two strokes.
 
What's the diff if its sit on the dealer shelves or in the dry sump...its not like unused oil goes bad!!


RedRocket said:
Sled Dog said:
RSVECTORFREAK said:
Yamaha suggests that you change you oil at the end of the season prior to storage...

Bingo, to not change your oil prior to storage is too let your engine sit in used acidic dirty oil letting some minute particulates settle where it should not have. Thats why Yamaha suggests to change prior to storage.

Exactly what part of your engine is sitting in old oil? This is a dry sump oil system which means the oil stays in the tank and not the engine. Yes old oil is old oil which is why I change it first thing in the winter when pulling it out of storage. Changing the oil in the spring, letting it sit for 6-8 months and then running it for 2000-3000 miles before changing it is just not right. Yeah you could change it in the spring before storage then again in the winter before riding but that just seems like a waste of oil, money, and time.

To each his own..
 


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