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its cause you cant move the sled till it turns off. it will turn off once the sled is at operating temp. keeps you from starting it up in -10 degree weather and taking off WOT and blowing the motor.

i have a 1.75 studded. much better in my opinon. only tunnel damage i saw was jumping it one time befor i had the shocks relavled. bottomed out and the studs just cought the curved down pice by the rear bumper and the plate i put to close off the big hole in the tunnel.

i have an 08 for sale with some extras. 1200 miles. PM me if you interested.

maybe ur tach is off. i can hear mine kick on at 12500.

rev limiter kicks in around 12500.

double check your engagement rpm and your full shift rpm are good. no need blowing your motor because you are running too high of rpm at full shift.

you have to callibrate the clutch to do what you want using the differnt componets, a clutch set up for one sled wont work well on another. the profile of the wights, the actualy weight of the weights, how the weight is distributed in the weight, spring rate, preload of teh spring and size of...

the update does recalibrate the speedo i believe . have heard this same story many times.

click VIP in the top right of the screen by where ur PM and sign in is.

there is one in the VIP section. if u update u can see it.

yea but thats minimal movement compaired to as when the rear torque arm bottoms on the tansfer blocks. but anyway its agreed the shocks are crap from the get go. but can gat alot better with a little work. if anyone wants theirs revaled my old boss does them alot cheeper then anyone ive...

after the skid couples booth shocks are working togther so upgradeing either one will make a large gain on the big bumps. better valving in the rear will help out in the stuters and also better valving or multi rate in the center helps in stutters. the valving in the RTX and FX shocks are...

i run s sping of rge center shock of a polaris fusion, made a big differnce, softer down bottom on stuters and almost totalt eliminated the center bottoming.

i run a polaris fusion front track spring made a huge differnace in bump compliance in from small to big. took more off everything insted of being one or the other. but not realy in tipyness.

stock skis suck. u took mine off only after a 100 miles and havent looked back. new skis are a bit agressive. if i had it to do over i would go half way in between the 2. i have USI tripple threats on there. keel is like over 1-1/2" plus 12-14" of crabide.

on average running on premium fuel they rev out at like 12050.

both numbers are about right. the motor has a gear reduction so the clutch is realy only spinng like 2800 at engament and 8500 at WOT. i forget the exsact number and ratio. it has a rev limiter so aslong as its not hitting that it should be fine.

learn how ur sled responds to differnt situations and use the ski lift to ur advantage. thats what i do. corners are usaly whooped out realy bad around here. so i rail the outside wher its smooth and use the inside ski lift to keep the inside ski off the ground and missing the bumps. also good...

is that 115 with the sled sitting on the ground or the front suspended off the ground, you will get 2 totaly differnt pressures. you should be setting ur pressure with the sled suspended in the air and the shocks with no weight on them. the pressure is all relivent on what ur doing and the...

no 08s and i think 09s are floats. i think 2010s are float 2s. might be wrong tho. the theroy behind using realy low pressure is it makes the sled sit down into the suspention and lower its center of gravty. there is also other adjustments to counter some of the tipyness like pulling up ur...