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08 Vector no start, no gauges, no nothing

JohnsShop

Newbie
Joined
Jan 2, 2018
Messages
4
Location
Salem WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Many
Hello all, sorry for the long post but i have an issue i cant figure out.
I have an 08 vector. It was pulled out of storage and the battery was dead. Not a click or anything. I ordered a brand new battery, charged it per manufacturer specs, then peak charged it on a trickle. I cleaned the carbs while i was in there and changed the oil. I put it all back together and it cranked for a a short while (like 30 seconds) but did not start. I figured the carbs were still dry so i did that about 2 more times but nothing. I also noticed the gauges did not light up or test or anything. I walked away for an hour and came back to it to try it again and nothing. Not a click noise dashlight nothing. I pulled ot back apart and rechecked everything. Nothing i can find is wrong. I checked all the fuses with a continuity tester, all good. Check ed solenoid fuse, all good, went over the electrical connectors etc. The sled did have new handwarmers installed so I disconnected them to make sure it was not something there. Well, i put it all back together again and still nothing. What should u look at from here?
 

Look for the relays. Should be four. I am not talking about the starter relay/solenoid. These relays are about a inch square and if they are all black you need the new Red one. In place of the Power relay. It makes a very quiet click that you can feel if your finger is on it. So that is easiest way to locate the correct one.
 
Hello all, sorry for the long post but i have an issue i cant figure out.
I have an 08 vector. It was pulled out of storage and the battery was dead. Not a click or anything. I ordered a brand new battery, charged it per manufacturer specs, then peak charged it on a trickle. I cleaned the carbs while i was in there and changed the oil. I put it all back together and it cranked for a a short while (like 30 seconds) but did not start. I figured the carbs were still dry so i did that about 2 more times but nothing. I also noticed the gauges did not light up or test or anything. I walked away for an hour and came back to it to try it again and nothing. Not a click noise dashlight nothing. I pulled ot back apart and rechecked everything. Nothing i can find is wrong. I checked all the fuses with a continuity tester, all good. Check ed solenoid fuse, all good, went over the electrical connectors etc. The sled did have new handwarmers installed so I disconnected them to make sure it was not something there. Well, i put it all back together again and still nothing. What should u look at from here?
 
Does it sound like...ninininininin and nothing else - no snap no pop? If so, see if your sled has a pickup coil as part of the stator assembly. Chances are it may have gone south on you even if resistance measures ok. Be careful installing a new one as leads must connect to specific ports on the CDI. So if u get nada - switch the leads. Theres also resistance tests you can do on the stator itself but I think thats more for charging. I just moments ago fixed this issue on my 05 RS Venture. I installed an aftermarket stator/coil combo and the leads from the pickup coil were installed backward in the connector. I went from ninininin to immediate start after swapping the leads. On my 05 i don't get any lights etc. until it starts. If on your 08 you could - maybe a bad load relay.
 
Did you prime the carbs with gas?

I also have an '08 Vector. The first time I fire it up every fall, I have to prime the carbs, as the float bowls will dry out from sitting. I've even had them dry out after sitting for a few weeks. Installing newly rebuilt carbs would be a similar scenario.

It takes FOREVER for the fuel pumps to get gas from the tank to the foat bowls by cranking alone . I remove a fuel line from the supply side of one pump and insert a tiny funnel. I then use a small cup to pour in gasoline. Keep pouring until it quits taking gas. One line will fill all three float bowls, as they're tee'd together at the carbs.

The sled should light instantly, assuming that all other ignition components are functioning properly.

As mentioned above, you will not get any lights or gauges until the sled starts.

Keep us posted. ;)!
 
I have no nothing now. no crank no noise nothing. I did not prime carbs when it did crank the first time, figured the pumps would fill them pretty quick, rx1 filled em quick. I am more conserned about the fact that it is not soing anything now. Batt is full 13+ volts, only thing i unhooked electrical was the terminals for the new bat (double checked them today when i did load test on battery) and the handwarmers because they were new. All fuses are good.
 
Will check relays next. Ill keep u posted. Thanks for the help so far!
 
Being that the 2008 is still carb's none of the small relays behind the knee panel will keep it from running. If it won't turn over with not even a click, first check that the kill switch is pulled up. If that's ok then clean the key switch connector that comes of the back of the switch and also clean the starter relay connector under the air box. If none of that helps then with the key on jump the two large terminals on the starter relay. If it rolls you have a bad starter relay or a wire problem from the key to the relay. When you get it to roll over use a spray bottle to mist gas into the carb openings. I also cup my hand over the carb openings to help suck the gas in.
 
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On the starting relay there should be 2x 30A fuses. One is live the other is a spare. Are they both good? Agree on the Kill Switch... pull up and use a continuity tester to see if in an "open" condition exists. You want continuity with that UP. You might have a bad key switch too. Simple check... unplug connector and you should see 4.pins - if not look at mate connector. I believe the top/bottom left pins are for "ON" condition. Top/bottom right pins are for "START". If Kill switch UP and good - quickly ground the top right to bottom right to see if starter engages. If it does you have bad main key switch. I THINK those leads are white/red, white/brown. I think the ON position uses near solid colours of red/brown.
 
Went back to re-testing the kill switch. Continuity is there when up but when i flip it down and back on resistance goes up and sometimes it is not showing continuity. I am going to order a new one and start there. I will post the results when i get it installed. Thanks for the help so far!
 
Before you order a kill switch.... the mate connector for the kill switch...should be females..

If you have a brad nail u can bend insert an end into each of the females to simulate a closed (ON) Kill switch providing continuity in the circuit. Then try starting. IF NADA... chances are Kill switch is ok
 
Did you check your main Engine Ground... while u r in there always check your ground connections for good and snug.
 


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